10 Must Try Typical Dishes from Arequipa, Peru

Arequipa, Peru is the wonderful white city, and one of the city’s best assets may just be its own distinctive cuisine. The food here is unlike anywhere else in Peru, some of these dishes even originating in specific districts right in the city of Arequipa. Don’t miss the opportunity to sample these typical dishes from Arequipa and the surrounding area.

At lunchtime, locals head straight to the Picanterías, where they can be found drinking chicha, slurping on a hearty soup or stew, savoring a heaping daily special, and socializing with people. All of these lively exchanges happening while dining at tables dressed in red and white checked tablecloths. The most memorable of experiences happen at lunchtime over a plate of typical food when the city seems to be sleeping, but the Picanterías are very much alive.

I spent two weeks eating my way through this city and digging deep into the culinary scene. I’ve provided some basic history of these establishments, must try typical dishes from Arequipa that should not be missed, and even a little about the origin of these local delights.

On a mission to learn even more about these wonderful eateries, I spent my time picking the brains of locals, owners, and even the regional tourist information center about Picanterías and their role in the story of this typical cuisine. Some of these Picanterías have been slinging traditional food for over 120 years. These are establishments laced with history, stories, and recipes that have been passed down with a passion.

Table of Contents

• History of Food and Picatnerías
• Rocoto Relleno
• Chupe de Camarones
• Adobo
• Soltero de Queso
• Cuy Chactado
• Chaque
• Escribano
• Americano
• Queso Helado
• Chicha and Other Drinks
• Impress the Locals with These Fun Etiquette Tips
• Which Picanterías to Visit in Arequipa?
• 10 Must Try Typical Dishes in Arequipa, Peru

History of Food and Picanterías

The food in Arequipia is a fusion of old Incan traditions, but with a dash of influence from the conquistadors of Spain. These two civilizations intertwined to create a modern day food scene that appeals to everyone who is lucky enough to experience it.

First off, Chicharías were the original social gathering places where drinking Chicha was the main attraction. Picanterías were born when food was introduced. They are named after dishes that are commonly served after 15:00. As people were drinking their chicha and socializing, the owners of these places created a daily “one-plate” stew called “Picante” which was then able to provide hungry customers with substance and help absorb some of the chicha. “Picante” actually translates to spice, but the dish is not necessarily spicy, just a term that was coined, and ultimately turned the Chicharías into Picanterías.

Traits of Picanterías

Authentic Picanterías are only open during lunchtime hours between the hours of 12:00-17:00. If they are open with extended hours, they may cater more to tourists and not host the local crowd. The locals provide the culinary experience with a more genuine feel. These eateries usually offer a daily special during lunchtime and then after 15:00 look for the serving of Picanterías and other hearty plates. Locals fill the brim of these eateries from the opening hours until around 15:00, so if you arrive late, there may be dissapointment as some of the dishes may be sold out.

In mid afternoon, also look for the plate of food calledAmericanos. Find more details about Americanos here.

Chicha is served in every Picantería. The origins of this drink come from the Chicharías, so find this fermented beverage served up as the staple beverage in every Picantería.

With hundreds of their own typical dishes, a consistently featured daily dish, plenty of chicha, and a chance to simply share tables with locals, eating at a Picantería is a must when visiting Arequipa, Peru.

Rocoto Relleno

Rocoto Relleno has to be the signature dish of Arequipa. From the Picanterías, to the markets, this stuffed pepper can be found everywhere in Arequipa. This spicy pepper is stuffed with a variety of items, but most commonly, minced beef, olives, tomato sauce, raisins, and all topped with cheese. This is the one typical dish from Arequipa that can’t be ignored!

The dish is spicy, originating from the spicy pepper used as the “container vessel”. The peppers are cooked in water and vinegar to help alleviate some of the spice, but a bit remains leaving the dish with just enough kick. The blend of the hot pepper and the bold stuffing ingredients helps balance out the flavor profile of this dish. I could appreciate the hint of sweetness from the raisins, the saltiness of the olives, and the acid from the tomato sauce. It tastes like the perfect blend of ingredients.

This dish is traditionally served up with a heaping pile of Pastel de Papa.

Pastel de Papa

The side dish to the famous Rocoto Relleno, Pastel de Papa, can give the impression of Au Gratin potatoes. Its name literally translates to Potato cake and due to the richness of the ingredients, it can resemble the taste. The potatoes are thinly sliced and baked with egg, cheese, and milk, or rich cream can be substituted for the milk.

The portion size of the Pastel de Papa feels big enough to be a meal in itself. However, one bite of these potatoes will keep you digging in for more.

Chupe de Camarones

The Chupe de Camarones, or soup of shrimp, is another staple typical dish from Arequipa. In Arequipa, this soup is most often served with crayfish from the rivers. As frozen shrimp is becoming more popular, many places are substituting the crayfish out for the shrimp. This thick and hearty soup is still one of my favorites. Often times it contains carrots, potato, corn, pumpkin, beans, and tiny fresh cheese squares. The soup also contains Huacatay, which is an herb that has similar profiles to cilantro, but typical of the Andes region. The green garnish will become quite familiar in Arequipa.

Add the green aji that accompanies the soup for the perfect amount of spice.

Adobo

Adobo is a typical dish from Arequipa, and is almost stew like in its texture. The pork is usually cooked in a clay pot with onions, chicha, spicy peppers, garlic, cumin, and other secret ingredients that only the women cooking these dishes hold the keys to. This slow-cooked soup creates almost a spicy brown marinaded broth.

Adobo actually originates from the Cayma District! Yes, visit the actual birthplace of this local favorite dish. This spicy pork stew is typically eaten on Sundays and is a useful hangover cure for many Arequipans. Locals dip bread into this thick soup to help soak up all the chicha from the night before.

Read more about this Sunday tradition in the Cayma District and other (districts) of Arequipa here.

Soltero de Queso

Soltero de Queso is a salad and a refreshing typical cold dish from Arequipa. The large beans are called habas (like a fava bean) and are a local essential ingredient of the region. The haba beans, and corn are boiled until soft and then mixed with black olives, tomatoes, carrots, onions, and the cubed region cheese, which is also known as Soltero. If not in Arequipia, it’s easy to replace the cheese with any fresh soft cheese.

The dressing is olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste. The salad has the garnish of parsley, which makes it extra heavenly. This salad is addicting, light, crisp, and packed full of flavor.

There are different versions that can add hot peppers, or even potatoes, but in Arequpia there are lots of twists on the typical regional dishes.

Cuy Chactado

Cuy Chactado is Guinea Pig, and although Guinea Pig is eaten all over Ecuador and Peru, Arequipa does things a little bit different. This delicacy is usually roasted on a spit, but not here in Arequipa!

The guinea pig is served flat here based on Incan traditions when the rodent was cooked between two hot stones. Now a days, it is cooked in oil under a pan with the lid, mimicking this ancient custom.

The cuy chactado is served still in tack with it’s head on. It is flattened, but considered a local favorite in most of Peru. The cuy is accompanied on a bed of haba beans and a peeled potato. It doesn’t get any more Arequipan than this.

Chaque

Chaque is the typical soup that is served on Mondays in the Picanterías. This hearty soup contains beef, fried pork, lamb intestines, and potatoes. This soup is one of the locals favorites of Arequipa, unlucky for me, I was not in Arequipa on a Monday, so I missed this local favorite. It was mentioned by the Picanterías and the tourist information center as being a local favorite.

Escribano

Escribano, is typical a starter that arrives before the main meal. In some Picanterías, it can be a welcome gift. There are many varietals of this typical dish from Arequipa, but it always includes potatos, tomatos, hot peppers, and is swimming in vinegar.

Americano

In the world of Picanterías, Americanos are a more modern addition to the culinary scene in Arequpia..

Americanos are usually a sample of a few favorite salads or specialties. It all started in the late 1930’s when the Gringos, or people who were not indigenous, were in the region working on the railroad system in Peru. They were curious about the Picanterías and all the typical food dishes, and of course, wanted to try a little bit of everything. So, the eateries started to dish out little helpings of all their daily offerings. These offerings started to get the reputation of Peruvian “tapas.” The Gringos could sample all the daily specials in little portions, but with a full plate of food.

Today, in typical Picanterías, it’s possible to choose from two or three different samplings, but BEWARE, these plates are heaping with food. I tried the Americano Especial and I could barely put a dent in the food on my plate. The helpings are generous, and it’s a great way to sample everything the Picanterías is serving up, but come hungry! Also, prepare for a food coma shortly afterwards.

Interestingly enough, some PIcanterías will charge for their to-go containers.

Queso Helado

Queso Helado is the artisanal typical ice cream from Arequipa, and although it translates as “iced cheese,” there is no cheese in this sweet treat. This ice cream is made from milk, condensed milk, coconut, and spices. There is always a garnish of cinnamon sprinkles.

Queso Helado came into existence after the Spanish conquest, due to the fact that they introduced cattle and livestock to the region. The reference to cheese comes from the process of actually making this ice cream. The curdled milk comes off in layers, having the appearance of cheese flakes, which gives this dessert the name Queso Helado.

Chicha and Other Drinks

Chicha de Guiñapo

Peru’s most famous beverage is Chicha. There are two main varietals of this beverage: Chicha de Jora is fermented, whereas Chicha Morada is non-fermented and is made from the trademark purple corn. Arequipa, being rich in agricultural resources, offers its own unique version of this cherished drink, Chicha de Guiñapo. This specific Chicha is made from black corn and contains a relatively lower alcohol percentage (I hear around 2-3%). In fact, most people of Arequipa agree that this chicha is healthy and nutritious. This adored region beverage pairs nicely with the typical dishes from Arequipa.

Anis Najar

Anis Najar is Arequipa’s digestive liquor. Locals will often end their meals with this black licorice liquid. The green label, Anis Najar, is the most common digestive offered by the Picanterías.

Impress the Locals with These Fun Etiquette Tips

Want to go above and beyond on local etiquette in the Picanterías? Check out these fun little tidbits I discovered while researching the typical dishes from Arequipa.

Want to Order a Cold Beer?

In Spanish, impress your waitress! Want to order a cold beer?

Say: Quiero una Chela al Polo, por favor?

Translates to: Can I have a freezing cold beer, please?

Fun Fact: Cerveza is rarely used in Peru, instead it’s Chela. Asking for an ice cold beer is a fun slang phrase that will score major points with locals!

The Proper Way to Finish a Meal at a Picantería

Locals will ask for a Prende y Apaga at the end of their meals.

It literally translates to turn on and off, but what it actually means is to have a shot of the Anis Najor and chase it with the Chicha. The Anis Najor works as the “on,” because it warms you up. Next, turn it “off” with a swig of Chicha. The Chicha offers a cooling affect from the heat of the shot.

Did you drink up all your chicha with your meal? Most Picanterías are willing to give an extra splash of Chicha to help chase down the biting shot of Anis Najor.

Chicha Glasses

Look around at any Picantería and most of them have different sized serving glasses. There are three main sizes of glassware to enjoy this popular beverage.

• Smallest: El Bebe is the 1/2 Liter and most typical glass size at a Picantería.
• Medium: El Cogollo is a 1 Liter sized Chicha glass.
• Largest: El Caporal is a massive glass which holds 1.4 Liters of Chicha!

Which Picanterías to Visit in Arequipa?

What vibe of Picantería fits your style and budget? Below are three ways to enjoy typical food from Arequipa.

La Capitana-Picantería

My favorite traditional Picantería is La Capitana-Picantería. The atmosphere is wonderful, the servers super friendly, the food portions massive, and the prices extremely reasonable. Locals are laughing, socializing, and enjoying delicious food at communal tables. La Capitana has been serving typical dishes from Arequipa since 1899.

I felt like a local here, and Giancarlo, who worked hard behind the counter, willingly shared his knowledge of the food and the traditions that come along with them. A huge shout out to him for educating me about the food all while serving tons of locals and tourists with a smile! If you’re still not comfortable with the menu, he will be the first to offer you behind the counter and choose the dish that appeals to you and your stomach.

On the way out, there is a friendly woman scooping out Queso Helado, for purchase. Check off every typical dish from Arequipa by eating at La Capitana Picantería.

Practical Info

Hours

• Friday-Wednesday: 12:00-18:00
• Except Sundays: 12:00-17:00
• Closed Thursdays
•  

Average Cost: $$

• Most heaping dishes run from 15-30 PEN ($4.50-$9.00 USD ).
• A glass of Chicha is 6 PEN ($1.80 USD).

Location

Across the River Chili @ Calle Los Arces 209 – Antiquilla – Cayma Arequipa.

Take a small bus for 1 PEN (30 cents) from Grau Puente (Grau Bridge) heading in the direction of Cayma, and get off at MallPlaza and head to the left!

La Cau Cau Picantería

La Cau Cau Picantería provides a beautiful garden setting while serving up typical dishes from Arequipa. The outdoor seating space is stunning and they even offer free little starter salads. It’s easy to visually see and ultimately pick from all the vittles on display, because they plate the food right insight.

The food is good, but the thing that I had reservations about were the prices. The portions were large, but I found the menu a little more expensive than at La Capitana. The outdoor seating was incredible, but it also kind of deterred away from the cozy feeling of sharing tables with locals. There was live music which added to the romantic ambiance of the garden terrace. I enjoyed the food and atmosphere, but was missing the intimate feeling of family style dining.

Practical Info

Hours

• Monday-Sunday 11:00-18:00

Average Cost: $$$

• Most heaping dishes run from 20-40 PEN ($6.00-$12.00 USD ).
• A glass of Chicha is 8 PEN ($2.40 USD).

Location

Across the River Chili @ Tronchadero 404 Yanahuara, Arequipa.

Take a small bus for 1 PEN (30 cents) from Grau Puente (Grau Bridge) heading in the direction of Cayma, and get off at MallPlaza and head to the right!

Mercado San Camilo

The most authentic experience happens in the bustling Mercado San Camilo. There are multiple food stands slinging up platefuls of typical dishes from Arequipa. Find a chair, or if not, stand and wait for one to open. If super hungry, many locals eat while standing up! The food here is scrumptious, the portions large, and the prices are an absolute steal.

If your stomach is solid, there’s no reason to miss a meal from the market. Some of the hostels discouraged guests from eating here, but I delved into everything from ceviche, typical dishes, and even drinks in quickly washed, but recycled glasses. I didn’t get sick once and I felt the hygiene was totally acceptable for a market. My stomach is pretty tough, but I saw some gringos sharing space with locals at multiple food stands. Know your tummy limits.

Practical Info

Hours

• Monday-Saturday: 6:00-19:30
• Sunday: 6:00- 15:00

Keep in mind that market stalls are open predominately during lunch hours.

Average Cost: $

• A large plate of food runs around 8-12 PEN ($2.50-$3.50 USD).
• Chicha or a juice is usually included in the price.

Location

Look for the food stalls on the first floor of the Mercado San Camilo @ Calle San Camilo 212 Arequipa.

Must Try Typical Dishes in Arequipa, Peru

In conclusion, Arequipa has it’s own cuisine and while visiting make sure to sample from the above typical dishes from the region of Arequipa. The history of Picanterías includes a unique fusion of Inca and Spanish cultures. There are so many typical dishes, but each chef has his/her own twist on these classic dishes. Eating the typical cuisines is one of the best ways to understand the history of the region, all while creating memories with the locals.

Need a break from eating? Check out there 10 epic things to do in Arequipa here!

Or, switch it up and try some of these yummy modern restaurants in Arequipa.

Have you visited Arequipa, Peru? Did the typical cuisine suck you in as much as it did to me? Have you tried any of the above dishes? Is there one dish that you absolutely loved that I am missing? Had you heard of some of the fun etiquette tips while eating at these establishments? Which Picantería did you visit, or did you visit more than one? Let me know in the comments below!

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