Two Days Sipping Wine in Sighnaghi, Georgia
Ahhh… spend two lovely days in Sighnaghi sipping on wine from the Kakheti Wine Region. The little village of Sighnaghi sits perfectly on the hillside, overlooking patch-worked arid farm land. This farm land eventually meets up with the distant mountainous backdrop. Savor the views while sipping on a traditional glass of Kakheti wine. For this reason, two days in Sighnaghi are better than one.
Sighnaghi is the ideal city to explore Georgia’s famous wine region, Kakheti. It’s especially appealing for those travelers without a car, due to the fact that there are multiple wineries and wine cellars to explore right within the city limits. Sighnaghi’s compact size allows for an effortless walk home after sampling the smooth, yet sneaky wine. So, grab a glass, or a bottle of wine, and dig deep by spending two days in Georgia’s picturesque village, Sighnaghi.
Here are my recommendations on how to spend two days in Sighnaghi.
Table of Contents
- A “Not So” Quick Lowdown on Kakheti Wine
- How To Get to Sighnaghi from Tbilisi
- Day 1: A Convent & Wine Cellar Tasting
- Day 2: More Wineries & City Walls
- Where to Sleep in Sighnaghi
- Sighnaghi and its Place in the Modern World of Tourism
- Discover More of Georgia
- Two Days Sipping Wine in Sighnaghi
A “Not So” Quick Lowdown on Kakheti Wine
It is said that Georgia’s Kakheti Region has been producing wine since the 6th century B.C. The historic qvevri, or the giant terracotta vessels which are scattered everywhere throughout the region, are the superstars of this traditional method. Using the Qvevri allow the winemakers to remain fairly “hands-off” with the whole wine production process.
How Kakheti Wines Are Made
The qvevri are buried in the ground, which helps regulate the temperature. The lip of the buried container is the only exposed section of the earth covered pot. The pressed grapes, seeds, skins, and even the stems, are all tossed into the qvervi. It is left to ferment to the winemakers liking. The previous mentioned fermented goodies in Georgia are referred to as “chacha.” Yes, it is these leftovers that are distilled into Georgia’s iconic, face-puckering, beloved grape brandy “chacha.” I can feel the back of my throat burning just thinking about it.
Next, the wine ferments in the most natural form, in its own chacha. This produces the yeast. Nothing is added; wine from the qvevri is completely natural. The qvevri is sealed and not opened until almost 6 months later. It is the combination of the chacha and the fermentation in the terracotta clay pot which gives the “amber white wines” their famous coloring. Red wines can also be produced in the qvevri, the process remains the same.
Using the qvevri is simple, but because it IS natural, the end results can be extremely irregular. It is quite possible that the same grapes, from the same field, placed in the same qvevri will produce wines that do not even resemble each other. The natural process lets mother nature dramatically dictate the final product.
There are options at many of the vineyards to try the traditional Kakheti Wines from the qvevri, which again, will have the amber coloring.
European Method
Most wineries in this region still make wine from the qvevri. However, there are a handful of wineries that are using modern wine-making tools. Those crisp, light in color white wines are using the “European Method” of production. The European Method uses the Georgian grapes, but alter the production method by using steel tanks, and fermenting with less chacha and absolutely no stems. This results in a crisp white wine, almost equivalent to a Sauvignon Blanc coloring.
Whether it’s wine from the qvevri or wine using the more modern European method, the wine is completely unique and smooth. There is something magical about the whole region. Sipping on a glass of wine here feels like you’re sharing it with our 8,000 year old ancestors. So whichever method you prefer, spend two days in Sighnaghi appreciating these delicious and unique wines. Gaumarjos!
Ordering Tip: Make sure to specify which method you prefer. The grapes are the same, but find two very different wines, both in taste and color. When ordering a glass of the traditional Kakheti wine, it will be referred to as Amber wine. The lighter wine will be referenced as the European Method.
How to Get to Sighnaghi from Tbilisi
It’s possible to take the speedy Marshrutka buses, or a taxi for those on a time budget.
By Marshrutka from Tbilisi
It’s straightforward to get to Sighnaghi via the direct Marshrutka (little minibuses).
Marshrutka Departure Location
- Take the metro to the metro-station, Samgori.
- Exit the station and keep it to your back.
- Turn right to the last section of buses.
- It’s a 5 minute walk from the metro station to the bus terminal.
Practical Info
- One-Way Ticket Cost: 6 Gel (about $2)
- Time: Under two hours
- Mini-buses run every two hours from 9:00 a.m-18:00 p.m.
The buses depart every two hours; however, they may wait around a bit to fill up the bus.
Some do not depart until they are full. I saw up by the non-working television in my minibus that my Marshrutka was scheduled for 11:00 a.m. Sure enough, we were on the road a few minutes after 11:00.
By Taxi
Taxis run frequently in between the Samgori Metro Station and the bus station for Sighnaghi. I had at least three different people offer me a taxi, but luckily they helpfully pointed me to the correct Marshrutka station.
If time is a priority, there are plenty of eager taxi drivers to whisk you to Sighnaghi. There are private and shared taxi options.
Day 1: A Convent & Wine Cellar Tasting
Welcome to Sighnaghi! The first day is an excellent opportunity to familiarize yourself with the village. A great way to do this is to head to the Bodbe Convent to see sweeping views of Sighnaghi. On the way back down, try out the interactive wine tasting which comes with an intriguing storyteller at Cradle of Wine Marani!
Bodbe Convent
Drop off those bags and head straight out of town towards the Bodbe Convent. It’s a little over a mile walk from the center of town and takes around an hour. On this main road, there is no sidewalk. So, be prepared to walk along a busy. Along the way, find plenty of opportunities to stop and take photos of Sighnaghi’s hilltop views. Don’t be discouraged by the oncoming traffic. I passed many people walking on the road, and didn’t feel in any immediate danger. The Georgian’s love to honk, so just stay alert.
If you don’t feel like walking the uphill scramble, a taxi can be taken for around 5 GEL. Make sure to negotiate on a price before entering the taxi.
The Convent has lovely grounds, and it is quite peaceful to enjoy the garden views. There is a spring located further down the hill. People splash in the holy water; for me, it looked a little busy and not too sacred. It is free to visit, but with St. Nino being buried here, it is usually quite crowded.
It’s safe to say that about 40 minutes is a sufficient amount of time to relax and explore the Convent. There is a cafe across the grounds which serves up simple food. It might be wise to grab something quick, because Sighnaghi is all about wine, and it’s time to start sampling.
Storytelling & Wine Tasting at Cradle of Wine Marani
Next, visit the Cradle of Wine Marani. From the Covenant, it’s a pleasant one and half mile downhill walk. Quick Georgian language lesson, Marani means wine-cellar. Upon arrival, there was a small tasting in progress, but luckily I had only missed the first two wines. I pulled up a seat and was ready to join in the fun. I am glad that I started here, because I arrived at 15:00 and did not leave until after 21:00.
Somehow, I had so much fun, I stayed for two tastings!
The Tasting
Paul is your host, an American guy, but his roots are completely Georgian with a dash of Russian. He sets up his tastings in true storytelling mode, twisting you through 8,000 years of history, using tales of our ancestors to explain the wine-making process. His main role is as the “toastmaster,” sharing toasts and encouraging others to participate. It’s unique and different, and the wines keep flowing.
What’s fun here is that you will be given a wineglass, but also a small clay cup. His theory is it’s best to drink from clay, as the wine was born in the clay qvevri. It’s like drinking and connecting directly to the source.
Before every sip, there’s a jovial toast. The clay glasses clink, smiles form on the participants’ faces, and everyone’s cheeks become a little rosier. There are usually four amber wines, two reds, and always a chacha or two to finish it off. Paul’s chachas taste more medicinal, as he throws in herbal plants. I stayed for two rounds, and Paul’s stories stayed similar, but the wines did change. As the night fell upon us, the wines were being poured a little heavier, and the toasts were getting a little longer. A good time was had by all.
On top of wine, there will always be goodies on the table. Our table had cheese, breads, oils, and a bean dip. Snacks were replenished throughout the day, and there is the option to order a supra (feast).
Visit the Actual Cellar
Finally, after all those toasts and a hearty sampling, head down to the cellar and see the actual qvevri in the ground. There is also an interactive process to show how they bottle on-site.
Paul works with local Georgians and even distills his chacha with a local guy up the street. It’s great to see him giving back to his roots and blending with the community.
Of my two days in Sighnaghi, this was my favorite wine tasting experience. The memories from here will always bring a smile to my face.
Practical Info on Tastings at Cradle of Wine
- Tasting Cost: 30 Gel ($9.50 USD) per tasting set
- The price will vary depending on how many people are in the tasting.
- Wine samplings also vefy.
- Paul really feels out the crowd, so I would say it’s dependent on the energy of the participants. I stayed for two rounds and ended up throwing in some extra money.
- Hours:
- Daily: 13:00-19:00
- Tasting Duration: Varies (I stayed 6 hours!!)
- This tasting is not for those in a hurry. So, sit back and enjoy true Georgian hospitality, toasting, food, a quirky host, and best yet, the view from the balcony.
- More Information Here
Day 2: More Wineries & City Walls
On Day 2, delve into a two more tasting opportunities located within the village limits. First, try out Okro’s Natural Wine and lastly the famous Pheasant’s Tears Winery. Each tasting takes less than an hour, so they are not as time consuming as the interactive tasting at Cradle of Wine.
Take some time to walk around the city walls and leisurely explore Sighnaghi: “the city of love.”
OKRO’S Natural Wine: Tasting with a View
OKRO’s Natural Wine offers a stunning view from their rooftop terrace. I dropped in early and asked if I could do a tasting for one person. They were so accommodating, and told me that although I was solo, they would be happy to provide this service. I came back in about an hour and was so glad that I did!
The Tasting
I opted for the tasting with the explanations. My hostess was straightforward and to the point. She was informative and explained how she has helps play an essential role with the wine-making process. I was glad to have her expertise guiding me through my tasting. I had two amber wines, and two reds, and of course, a very strong chacha shot. Her explanations were factual details about the fermentation process and their vineyards. It was a nice contrast to the storytelling method of Cradle of Wine. I was satisfied with the service, the wines, and most importantly, the view! This may be one of the best terraces in all of Sighnaghi.
There was the famous sunflower oils and crackers to accompany the tasting.
Visiting Tip: I had heard really mixed reviews about OKRO’S and their wine tastings. I found it best to go for the tasting in the morning. Not only is this a wine tasting establishment, but a very popular restaurant. I had attentive service and attention before the lunch crowd started rolling in a little around 1:00 p.m. With that being said, this is a restaurant. The staff tend to focus more on the dining experience during lunch and dinner service hours. Come in for a tasting in the morning, when the servers are fresh and available to give their full attention to the wine.
Practical Info on OKRO’S Natural Wine
- Tasting Cost: 30 Gel ($9.50 USD)
- Includes a private hostess, 4 wines, chacha, and snacks.
- Hours:
- Daily: 11:00-22:00
- Tasting Duration: Depends, I spend an hour and a half here. I was enjoying sipping on my wine flight, munching on crackers, and soaking in the view.
- I was so happy with my view and the wine that I ordered another glass of Georgia’s most famous red wine: Saperavi.
- Check out more information on OKRO’S here.
The Famous Pheasant’s Tears Winery
Pheasant’s Tears is probably the most famous winery located in Sighnaghi. For this reason, I saved it for last. I opted to visit Pheasant’s Tears after OKRO’S, and I can say that I was a little disappointed in my overall experience here.
The Tasting
The patio was very inviting, and my servers were smiling, but there was something not as personal at this winery. With all the traffic that comes through here, it can feel a little less personal. I found the descriptions and experience a little more vague. There was something missing or lacking in comparison to the other two wineries in town.
I could see the beautiful produce lined up next to the kitchen door and the gorgeous area where they made the bread, but I have to say that I did not eat here either. The prices were quite a bit higher, and honestly a little off-putting.
I don’t discourage a visit here, because I really did enjoy the atmosphere and the wines. I just enjoyed the previously listed wineries a little more. By all means, if you have two days in Sighnaghi, don’t miss a tasting at Pheasant’s Tears Winery.
Practical Info on Pheasant’s Tears Winery
- Tasting Cost: 30 Gel ($9.50 USD)
- The tasting includes: two whites, two reds, and of course, chacha.
- The standard sunflower oil and fresh bread compliments the tasting. It was delicious.
- Hours:
- Daily: 12:00-23:00
- Tasting Duration: I finished my tasting in about an hour.
- Check out the official website for Pheasant’s Tears Winery here.
Explore the City Walls
During some point of your two days in Sighnaghi, visit the beautiful, crumbling city walls. They can be found scattered around the whole city. One of my favorite sections is just a quick 5 minute walk from OKRO’S. The city walls are free to explore and offer diverse viewpoints of Sighnaghi.
Where To Sleep in Sighnaghi
To fully appreciate the Kakaheti Wine Region, it’s best to spend at least two days in Sighnaghi or at least consider another village in the Kakheti Wine Region.
Budget
Nando Guest House is a great option for those travelers on a tight-budget. The host doesn’t speak English, but her son does. He also offers wine tours to neary marani’s outside of Sighnaghi. The accommodation is modest and feels like a home-stay. It is conveniently located near the center of town, so it makes a modest base. Private rooms start at 24 Gel ($8).
Check availability for Nando Guest House here.
Mid-Range
Guest House Maria makes an excellent option for those who wish to spend a little bit more money, but still want a budget friendly. It’s located in Sighnaghi just down the hill from the center of town. One highlight here is the amazing terrace that overlooks the village. Single rooms start at 60 Gel ($20).
Check availability for Guest House Maria here.
Sighnaghi and its Place in the Modern World of Tourism
Sighnaghi is coming into the world of tourism, just like much of Georgia. The city can feel a little “Disneylandish,” as in it’s almost too perfect. In some of the cases, it is. The lovely exterior of some of these buildings are just facades for the empty and crumbling interiors. As Sighnaghi continues to attracts more tourists, I can hope these buildings will be repurposed with sustainable accommodations and shops BY the local villagers. The village was “constructed” to become a “wine-destination.” Day trippers are great, but those travelers willing to stay a few days are helping to build a future for this village by giving back to local shops, guest houses, and eateries.
Discover More of Georgia
Looking to discover more of incredible Georgia? From wine country, the road to Kazbegi is filled with jam-packed “must-see” pit stops. In addition, Kazbegi, or Stepantsminda, has tons of adorable mountain hamlets and casual or intense hiking trails that can be explored as day trips.
Wanting to relax even more? Batumi, Georgia’s coastal city on the Black Sea makes an excellent place to unwind. Although having a reputation of being Georgia’s “Sin City,” Batumi boasts some excellent food options, beautiful plazas, and tranquil beach side strolls.
Craving some more adventure? Head towards Mestia in the Upper Svaneti Region. This mountain village is the gateway to the epic 4 day trek to Ushguli.
Related Travel Guide: The Best 3 Week Adventure Itinerary to Discover Georgia
Or, Heading Back to Tbilisi?
Tbilisi is a bustling and fascinating capitol city. This 2 day itinerary is a great introduction to discover and explores the highlights of this city of contrasts.
Make sure to “checkoff” a few things on this extensive summary of things to see, do, and eat in Tbilisi
Travel Deeper: 22 Things you Must-Do in Tbilisi
Already missing the incredible wine from the Kakheti region? Have a glass at one of these unique wine bars in Tbilisi. Pair a glass of wine with a supra from one of these great restaurant options!
Two Days Sipping Wine in Sighnaghi
In conclusion, Sighnaghi makes a great village to explore the Kakheti Wine Region. For those people who don’t want to pay for a tour, or drive a car, Sighnaghi is the most logical option. Two days in Sighnaghi is a must-do for anyone who is fond of smooth natural wines, and is curious about the traditional and ancient wine-making techniques. The qvevri are often referred to as a womb, and the irony is on point, especially since Kakheti could quite possibly be the birthplace of wine. Our 8,000 year old ancestors show us that it is.
Have you been to Sighnaghi, Georgia? Did you feel like two days in Sighnaghi was sufficient to discover the Kakheti Wine Region? Had you heard about the wine-making process in the Kakheti? Am I missing something really important about visiting Sighnaghi? Let me know in the comments below!
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