Spectacular Mestia to Ushguli Trek with Tsvirmi | 4 Days

The Mestia to Ushguli trek is a beautiful multi-day hike through Georgia’s incredible Upper Svaneti region. This multi day trek weaves through the remote Caucasus Mountains and passes through traditional mountain hamlets dotted with iconic medieval Svan towers. These towers were still used up until the not so distant past. These fortress towers helped protect families from ancient blood feuds as old as the 9th century towers.

The traditions in Svaneti are unique and the remoteness deep in the Caucasus Mountains has kept the Upper Svaneti region isolated from the changing times, until recently.

Besides the unique cultural aspect of the Mestia Ushguli trek, the nature is nothing short of spectacular. Hike by stunning glaciers, towering snow-capped mountain peaks, wander through alpine meadows, and appreciate lush valleys. Hiking from Mestia to Ushguli feels like walking back in time and is a highlight on an adventurous Georgia Itinerary.

The standard Mestia to Ushguli trekking route takes 4 days. There are alternative hiking routes, and this Mestia to Ushguli itinerary follows a not-so standard route from Mestia to Tsvirmi village. On Day two, the trail connects to the standard Mestia to Ushguli trek.

No matter what hiking route you choose from Mestia Svaneti, all roads lead to Ushguli, a community of five hamlets. Ushguli is an UNESCO World Heritage Site with Chazhashi village of Ushguli boasting over 200 standing Svan towers.

In this Mestia to Ushguli trek find a detailed hiking itinerary for this alternative hiking route, a free downloadable Mestia to Ushguli trek map, what to pack for this top Georgia multi-day trek, and the average expenses for trekking Mestia to Ushguli without a guide.

Here’s the complete guide for the 4 day Mestia to Ushguli trek without a guide with an alternative route through Tsvirmi village.

Table of Contents

Disclosure: This is part of my Hikes & Adventures series, which means these treks can be strenuous and challenging. These are my experiences and I am not an expert. Please have all the proper equipment, verify the weather conditions, use professional resources, do your own research, and take into consideration your own physical abilities and/or limitations. These guides are for entertainment purposes only. Please see my full disclosure for more information here.

• How to Get to Mestia Svaneti Georgia
• Mestia to Ushguli Trek Map
• Daily Mestia Ushguli Trek Schedule & Overview
• Tips on Hiking Mestia to Ushguli
• Packing List for Mestia to Ushguli Trek
• Mestia to Ushguli Trek Guide Day by Day
• Ushguli Day Hike to Shkhara Glacier
• How to Return to Mestia from Ushguli Village
• Total Cost of Mestia to Ushguli Trek 4 Days
• Conclusion | Hiking Mestia To Ushguli Trek Guide

How to Get to Mestia Georgia

Most hikers will reach Mestia from the bustling capital city of Tbilisi. However, the distance from the Black Sea side city of Batumi to Mestia is shorter and takes less time. Both cities will have to pass through Zugdidi.

There are a variety of ways to get to Mestia from Tbilisi. The most popular route is combining a train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi. In Zugdidi, hop in a shared mini-bus, or a marshrutka. It is possible to ride the entire 240+ miles from Tbilisi to Mestia, but it won’t be the most comfortable decision you’ll make, especially before trekking in Mestia.

Travelers not worried about budget can also hire a private driver or join organized tours from Tbilisi.

☛ Travel Tip | Here’s a detailed guide on how to get from Tbilisi to Mestia

There’s also a prop plane run by Vanilla Sky that flies 4-5 times a week into the tiny Mestia airport from the outskirts of Tbilisi. Flight schedules and frequency change every few times a year, so it’s best to confirm the current flight departures from Tbilisi to Mestia on the official Vanilla Sky Facebook Page.

Keep in mind, those who plan on hiking Mestia to Ushguli without staying in guest houses will have more gear to carry. On Vanilla Sky, carry-on luggage cannot exceeds 33 pounds.

Mestia the Gateway to Upper Svaneti

It’s best to arrive to Mestia and spend the night before immediately starting the hike to Ushguli. There are lots of things to do in Mestia, including museums, a small movie theater, listening to folk music, and other popular Mestia day hikes.

➜ Browse the best Mestia Guesthouses and places to sleep in Mestia

Mestia to Ushguli Trek Map

There are a few alternative ways to hike Ushguli from Mestia. Visiting Tsvirmi a favorite spot along the 4 day trekking route, so I think it’s worth it. However, Tsvirmi can be a full day hike from Mestia on its own and done as a full day hike or with an overnight in Tsvirmi.

 🥾 This Mestia to Ushguli Trek Map follows this alternative trekking route: Mestia ➜ Tsvirmi ➜ Adishi ➜ Iprali ➜ Ushguli

Be mindful that the standard Mestia to Ushguli multi-day trek route is: Mestia ➜ Zhabeshi ➜ Adishi ➜ Iprali ➜ Ushguli

 ⁉️ If downloading the Mestia to Ushguli trek map, please verify that the map is correct and follows the waypoints. Oftentimes there are updates to the site, map platforms, and other things, which can cause a bug in downloading. This map is solely a planning tool. Please comment below if something doesn’t download right or email me here, as it helps me keep the maps up to date and maintained. Always hike responsibly and respect the mountains by practicing no trace philosophy, avoid hiking alone, and don’t stray from the visible trail. I also love to check and plan my routes with useful tools like graphhopper.

• Point to Point Trail
• Mestia to Ushguli Trek 4 Days: 33.75 miles
• Moving Days: 4 Days
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Total Days: This is a 4 day hiking Mestia to Ushguli itinerary,but it’s best to spend the night in Mestia a night before departure
  • Ushguli is super tranquil and it’s easy to spend one night here to avoid those visiting Ushguli as a day trip from Mestia
  • Advanced hikers short on time can complete the Mestia Ushguli trek in 3 full hiking days

Due to my adventure-seeking ways… 🙂, there are also more alternatives trails like hiking to Adishi via the high alpine path from the Tetnuldi Ski Resort. I also added a walk through Davberi village instead of walking the main Mestia Ushguli road along the Enguri River.

💬 Real Talk | These modifications make the multi day trek a little more difficult, but were some of my favorite sections of the hike from Mestia to Ushguli

Daily Schedule & Mileage | Mestia to Ushguli Trek via Tsvirmi

Most travelers hiking from Mestia to Ushguli go through the villages of Zhabeshi, Adishi, and Iprali before reaching the UNESCO village of Ushguli. Although still not heavily trafficked, I prefer this alternative Mestia to Ushguli trek via Tsvirmi. On the first day, Tsvirmi village replaces Zhabeshi.

• Day 1 | Mestia to Tsvirmi | 6 miles | 5 – 7 hours
• Day 2 | Tsvirmi to Adishi | 9.75 miles via the high pass to Adishi | 5 – 7 hours
• Day 3 | Adishi to Iprali | 10.5 miles | 5 – 7 hours
• Day 4 | Iprali to Ushguli Villages | 7.5 miles via the high path through Davberi | 3 – 4 hours

Tips on Hiking Mestia to Ushguli

Here’s some handy information when planning to hike Mestia to Ushguli.

Is the trek from Mestia to Ushguli Safe?

In general, yes. The Mestia to Ushguli trek is becoming more and more popular and during the peak summer season months you will see many hikers along the trails. The hiking trail is well-enough marked with diamond trail markers, signboards, and markers painted on rocks. This makes it fairly easy to hike Mestia to Ushguli without a guide as long as you feel confident in your hiking abilities. An offline map does come in handy.

There are organized tour groups that trek from Mestia to Ushguli if that feels right.

Nature is unpredictable, so it’s best to take all the necessary precautions.

Of course, the trail is in the Upper Svaneti region and some of the side trails are more remote. One of the biggest dangers along the hiking path is the invasive Giant Hogsweed Plants, which can cause blisters, burns, and blindness. Also, be mindful while navigating the trails. There are glaciers that are melting that can cause loose rocks. There is also a spot where you must ford a river. There is assistance to cross the river if you need it. Always put your safety first.

There are dogs along the way, but unlike in more rural hiking spots in Georgia like Juta Valley and Tusheti, these dogs weren’t as aggressive. Many are becoming accustom to the influx of hikers. However, aways be weary of shepherd dogs. Always wait for the shepherd.

As a female traveler I hiked the Mestia to Ushguli trek without a guide and felt extremely comfortable. I did not wild camp, but utilized designated camping areas and guesthouses.

Which brings me to my next point….

Trekking Mestia Ushguli Guesthouses vs. Camping

Tourism is making its way through the Upper Svaneti region. However, many of these guest houses along the route are still not affiliated with booking.com or other online services. It’s worth a note that internet and cell service is expanding into the area. Back in the day, Ushguli was extremely cut-off from the world, but now walking in the area you can see Wi-Fi cafes and even get sporadic service with a Georgia sim card. Gone are the days of complete isolation.

There are many guesthouses within each village along the Mestia to Ushguli trek. As I did not book my guesthouses in advance, I carried a tent just in case they were full. Sleeping at a guest house is a highlight of the Mestia to Ushguli trek in itself. The guesthouses typically include a bed with a shared bathroom, dinner, and breakfast the following morning. This makes the Ushguli trek the perfect opportunity to delve deep into the Upper Svaneti cuisine and offers a bonus cultural experience.

During the peak months of July, August, and even the first weeks in September, it may be best to book guesthouses in advance. There will likely be a makeshift room somewhere, but it might a scramble and cause angst. If the guesthouse is not on booking and you wish to stay in a specific one, try to reach out before departing the trek. Most guesthouse owners in Mestia are willing to help arrange accommodation on the Mestia Ushguli trek.

Many of the guesthouses in the villages also offer places to set-up a tent. The tent fee is just a tad cheaper than a shared room inn the guesthouse. Campers at guesthouses do get access to the bathrooms, hot water showers, and common spaces.

There are certain areas along the Mestia to Ushguli trek that are utilized more frequently by wild campers. These popular wild camping spots are indicated on Maps.me. If wild camping, make sure to leave no trace and pick up trash and waste.

As a solo hiker in September, it was easy to find a room. However, I usually had to share with another single hiker, which wasn’t a problem.

When to Hike Mestia to Ushguli?

The peak season of hiking Mestia to Ushguli is July, August, and the first weeks of September. In the early months of May and June, the river may be high from snow melting and passes may be blocked. It’s best to check in with current weather conditions and the tourist information in Mestia to see if guest houses and passes are open. Even the first week of June can be iffy.

In the mid to the end of September, guesthouses will start shutting down for the season to escape the first snowfall that sticks. However, there is usually one guest house in each village that will be open in October, again depending on the weather and snow.

I hiked in September and absolutely loved it and hear it’s one of the best months to trek Mestia to Ushguli. The mountain passes were all clear and I saw only a handful of hikers. The weather was pleasant, but the nights were cold. September is not nearly as busy as the peak summer months, where lodging may be harder to find and the trails full of tourists and trekking groups. The Adishi River was easy to cross by foot without a horse as the water levels were quite low.

Taking the alternative routes along the Mestia to Ushguli trek was also a nice bonus. The day hiking to Tsvirmi I saw zero hikers.

Packing List for Mestia to Ushguli Trek

When packing for the Mestia to Ushguli trek, it will really depends on personal preference and how you wish to discover the region. With many guesthouse options, it’s possible to do the trek without a tent. If utilizing the guesthouses, meals are usually included in the price, so you won’t have to rely on a cooking stove or food. It’s also easy to purchase a la carte menu items and snacks if you choose to camp the Mestia Ushguli trek.

However, those looking for a more “wild” experience may wish to pack a tent and carry their own food. Before and after the main villages along the Mestia to Ushguli trekking route are plenty of “wild” camping options. Most of the sites follow along a river or have small water flows to refill water bottles and do dishes. In fact, I didn’t even carry my water filter, as the spring sources were very pure. However, if you’re sensitive to water, you may wish to carry water purification tablets.

Depending on trekking routes and backpack weight, it’s feasible to do this hike in trail runners. My trekking bag was not full of gear, so the extra ankle support wasn’t essential. A good pair of hiking sandals helped me “ford” the river on foot and not pay to cross with a horse.

Mestia to Ushguli Trek Packing List

The nights can be cold, so warm clothes are essential. Most of the guest houses don’t have heat and can be drafty. Only take essentials to help keep the pack weight down. I’ve added in a few miscellaneous items that may come in handy.

Clothing Essentials	What I Love
Trail Runners	Salomon Sense Ride GTX Invisible Fit Trail-Running Shoes (W)
Hiking Sandals for showers & river crossings	Teva Hurricane XLT2 Sandals (W)
Packing Cubes	Eagle Creek Pack-It Specter Tech Starter Set
Thin long sleeve trekking shirt (1)	Protects from the sun
Merino Wool Sweater	Anything by Ibex
Quick-Dry hiking pants (1)	Narrow ankle
Warm Fleece Jacket (1)	KUHL Flight Fleece Jacket (W)
Rain Jacket (1)	Compass 360 AdvantageTek™ Rain Jacket
Warm set of clothing for night	Keep these dry!
Hat & Mittens	For cold mountain nights
Hiking socks (3–4 Pairs)	Smartwool (I like a variety of length and thickness)
Quick-dry towel	Packtowel
Multi-purpose Soap (in small reusable bottle)	Dr. Bronner’s can be used as toothpaste, detergent, and more!

Useful Miscellaneous Packing Tips

• Phone with Maps.me offline downloaded! (Or any offline map)
• Tissues, Wet-Ones, & Hand-Soap
• A few misc extra plastic bags in various sizes
• Sunscreen & Bug spray
• Personal toiletries compact in size
• Chargers and Cords for Electronic Devices
• Passport or copy of one
• Cash (For this Mestia to Ushguli trek there is no need to carry over $150 USD per person)

➯ Hey… don’t forget your Travel Insurance! I love SafetyWing

Mestia to Ushguli Trek Camping Gear Pack List

This was my basic camping gear for the Mestia to Ushguli trek. I brought basic camp gear, just in case the lodging options were full. I spent 3 of the 4 nights in the affordable guest houses.

My sleeping bag was not warm enough. If serious about camping on the Mestia Ushguli trek, make sure to carry a warm enough sleeping bag.

Camping Gear	What I Carry
Backpack	Osprey Ariel Pro 65 Pack – Women’s (Women)
Backpack Cover	REI Co-op Duck’s Back Rain Cover
Lightweight Tent	NEMO Hornet 2 Person Tent
Footprint	NEMO Hornet 2P Footprint
Sleeping Bag	REI Co-op Helio Sack 55 Sleeping Bag was not sufficient
Sleeping Liner	Sea to Summit Thermolite Reactor Sleeping Liner
Sleeping Pad	Big Agnes Insulated Air Core Ultra Sleeping Pad
Compression Bag	Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil CompressionDry Sack
Reusable Water Bottle	Lightweight & Easy to refill with filter
Trekking Poles	Anything by Leki
First Aid-Kit	Adventure Medical Kits Smart Travel First-Aid Kit
Headlamp	Black Diamond Cosmo 250 Headlamp
Swiss Army Knife	Swiss Army Camper Knife
Emergency Blanket	Doubles as a tarp and adds warmth under tent (at least 2)

Mestia to Ushguli Trek Guide Day By Day

Here’s how to reach the Mestia to Ushguli trek trailhead and a detailed day by day schedule for those hiking to Ushguil without a guide.

Jump to | Mestia to Tsvirmi | Tsvirmi to Adishi | Adishi to Iprali | Iparari to Ushguli

Hatsvali Ski Lift

For this alternative route of the Mestia to Ushguli trek, head to the Hatsvali Cable Car in Mestia. The bottom lift station is about a half mile from the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography.

The Hatsvali ski lift is really hit or miss and some days it does not run at all.  There are two sections of the cable car.

➜ Mestia – Hatsvali lift

➜ Hatsvali – Hatsvali Ski Resort (Zuruldi mountain ridge)

With recent construction, the second half of the ski lift is usually closed. It’s still the same price to ride the cable car whether or not both ski lifts are running. On top of the inconsistencies with the lift, it doesn’t start running until 10:00! Those who want an early start may opt to hike up to the Hatsvali Ski Lodge instead.

Hatsvali Ski Lift Logistics | Find the ticket booth and first section of the cable car here | Round Trip Ticket: 20 GEL ($6.75 USD) | Ticket valid for both lifts and is the same price whether or not both lifts are working | Summer Hours: 10:00 – 16:30 | Some days the Mestia cable car does not run at all, verify at the Tourist Information Center or ask around town

Ask in Mestia the day before starting the trek to Ushguli to see if the Hatsvali cable car is in fact running. If you opt to ride the ski lift up to the lodge, an early start on the first day isn’t essential.

Tips on the Hatsvali Ski Lift

When I started the Mestia to Ushguli trek, the second Hatsvali lift was down, but it is easy to follow the grassy hillside underneath the tram line.

Keep the top of the cable car in front of you. Eventually, towards the top, turn to the left to join the dirt trail which helped build the cable car. 

The hike from Hatsvali lift to Hatsvali Ski Lodge added 1 hour and a couple miles to my day, as it is a steep uphill climb. Waking this additional trail didn’t bother me because I had nice weather and stellar views of Mestia along the path. Think of it more like a warm up to the Mestia to Ushguli trek. 😉

Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 1 | Hatsvli Ski Lodge to Tsvirmi

From the Hatsvili Ski Lodge (Zuruldi lift) appreciate the views and then head left along the stunning path in the direction of Tsvirmi. The lodge was closed when I visited, but the observatory deck was filled with chairs to relax before you start trekking. Use the Mentashi transmitter antenna as a point of reference, which can be seen farther along the trail. In fact, the hike to Mentashi transmitter is a popular Mestia day hike.

Plan on a little over one hour to reach the Mentashi antenna. Also, around the Mentashi antenna is steep, so mind your footing.

The views of the Caucasus Mountains are stunning on the hike from Mestia to Tsvirmi. The path is fairly visible, but check-in on an offline maps (I used Maps.me) if the trail vanishes.

Look for towering views of Mount Ushba on the left hand side and a direct viewpoint of Mount Zuruldi to the right. Eventually, the trail begins to descend and passes by a small lake. In about mile, take a right towards the village of Tsvirmi.

Those camping may want to look for a spot before the village of Tsvirmi, as it is a little bit of a back track the next day to the Adishi trailhead. However, Tsvirmi is totally adorable and worth the overnight.

Wander the small village of Tsvirmi. Appreciate the abundance of awesome viewpoints from around the hamlet.

Mestia to Ushguli Hiking Overview of Day 1

• Distance: 6 miles (Plus the extra miles to walk to from the 2nd Hatsvali ski lift to the Hatsvali Ski Lodge)
• Duration: 6 hours
  • Personal Schedule: Left Mestia at 10:45 with arrival time in Tsvimi at 16:45
• Where to Sleep in Tsvirmi:
  • Guesthouse Tviberi (IAMZE) sits on the outskirts of town, so it makes a great option for those who don’t want to backtrack too far to the trailhead in the morning. The guesthouses boasts a nice garden. The bathroom was spacious and had hot water. There were charging stations for devices outside and a few hammocks. Guesthouse Tviberi also has a water tap for dishes and water refills.

Guest House Tviberi | Camping Fee: 30 GEL with Dinner and Breakfast | Wi-Fi | Hot Water | Device Charging Station

More Tsvirmi Guesthouses

Since it was my first night, I opted to camp outside of the actual guesthouse. Turns out, September nights are freezing and my sleeping bag wasn’t warm enough. Hence, this was the only night I camped.

Shorena’s Homestay is a popular guesthouse in Tsvirmi that offers online booking. There’s even more Tsvirmi guesthouses that don’t have online booking options. Many of these lodging options sit empty, so it is easy to negotiate the price.

In the village, find pigs running freely in the streets and many epic viewpoints into the surrounding valleys. This was one of my favorite villages of the whole Mestia to Ushguli trek.

Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 2 | Tsvirmi to Adishi (Upper Route)

The morning starts with a backtrack out of Tsvirmi to the trailhead in the direction of Zhabeshi. The trail markers are red and white. Try to leave early to enjoy the silence and epic views of the beautiful Caucasus mountains. 

The path meets the main Mestia Ushguli road, There is a noticeable bus station on the right hand side and a substation. Cross the road and look down the road just a bit to continue on the path towards the Tetnuldi Ski Resort. Follow this uphill road until the Tetnuldi chair lift.

🥾 Tsvirmi village to Tetnuldi Ski Resort | Distance: 4.1 miles | Duration: almost 2 hours

The Tetnuldi chair lift was not working, and it only runs during the winter months. Follow the ski lift lines along gravel road next to the chair lift. There are two hiking routes that lead to Adishi, the low or high trail.

Low Trail to Adishi

For those looking to take the low route into Adishi, turn right at the makeshift bar Tkharpel Hut Cafe. There are signs pointing to the village of Adishi. The signpost is about 1.4 miles from the bottom of the Tetnuldi Ski Lodge

High Route Trail to Adishi

For those looking to take the high alpine route to Adishi, continue pass the cafe on the dirt the road up until where the first Tetnuldi ski lift ends. This upper trailhead to Adishi is less than 1/4 of a mile to the right of where the lift ends. The uphill climb to reach the trailhead is uneventful and takes a little over an hour, but the views will be worth it.

The high route sees fewer hikers and the alpine views are simply incredible. Again, this was one of my favorite trails along the Mestia to Ushguli trek.

The small trail is pretty visible and winds along the hillside. There are portions where the trail disappears, so this is where an offline map will come in handy. On a clear day, catch those epic views of Tetnuldi Mountain. The downhill to Adishi can have some pretty steep sections. I saw many hikers slipping down the dewy grass.

The upper route Adishi was stunning and well worth the extra effort, especially the views looking above the village.

🥾 Upper Alpine Adishi Trail | Distance: 3.2 miles | Duration: 2. 5 hours

Explore Adishi Village

Adishi is really adorable. Wander through the village with goats, pigs, and silly puppies. There are excellent viewpoints around the city with many of the Svan towers in the backdrop. The remains of the houses are so unique. The cemetery is worth a peak. Adishi village is by far the most photogenic on the hike to Ushguli.

Sadly, the rushing river was filled with garbage. As tourism continues to grows in the Upper Svaneti region, my hopes is that it is done sustainably and with little affect on the remote area.

Mestia to Ushguli Hiking Overview of Day 2

• Distance: 9.75 miles with the Upper Alpine Trail to Adishi
• Duration:6 hours
  • Personal Schedule: Left Tsvirmi village at 8:00 with arrival time, upper trailhead to Adishi at 11:15 and in Adishi at 13:45
• Where to Sleep in Adishi village:
  • Nino & Tarzan Guest House has simple rooms with delicious food. There are nice warm showers, a small little garden terrace, and is close to the cemetery. The beds were comfy and there were plenty of plug-ins to charge devices. Rooms can be drafty, but there are lots of blankets in the. The indoor seating benches provide excellent views of Adishi village and there’s nice common spaces. The meal portion size here are massive and the food seriously delicious.

Nino & Tarzan Guesthouse | Room Cost: 50 GEL with dinner and breakfast | Beverages and snacks are available for purchase | Hot showers | Friendly and accommodating owners | Wi-Fi and lots of plug-ins to charge devices | Book here

More Adishi Guesthouses

Adishi is a beautiful village that is seeing a reviving energy from trekking tourism. Almost all the homes act as a guesthouse, or has a family willing to rent a room. During the peak season it is almost essential to book in-advance.

➜ Browse all the Adishi Guest House options

Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 3 | Adishi to Iprali

The third day of the Mestia to Ushguli trek is probably the most challenging, between the river crossing and the steep climb up to Chkhunderi Pass, the highest point on the trek. Leave Adishi early and hike to the Adishi River (Adishchala River). This is a mostly flat path and the trail is marked with red and white markers to Iprali.

Eventually the trail leads the Adishi River, which can be crossed by either fording the river or by riding a horse.

🥾 Plan on around 1 hour and 15 minutes to reach the Adishchala river crossing from Adishi

Adishi River Crossing

Be mindful when crossing the Adishi River. Make sure to check-in at the Adishi guesthouses to get the most current status of the river levels. It’s best to observe and see where hikers are crossing. Those hikers whom have already crossed the river can point you in the right direction.

Most trekkers say that it’s best to cross the Adishi river early in the morning, when there is less glacial water runoff and melt. This results in the Adishi River having lower water levels than the afternoon.

Again, from my personal experience, I completed the Mestia to Ushguli trek in September, so the water levels were quite low. The best way to cross the river is to put on hiking sandals, roll up your pants, and walk through a shallower section of the river. I found a section where the water only came midway to my shin. A stick or trekking poles come in handy to test the depth of the water before crossing. I had to move a little off of the main trail to cross, but it was fairly easy to find the trail to Chkhunderi Pass.

Only cross by foot if you are confident in your abilities and if the river is low enough.

For those crossing the Adishi River via horse, the ride only takes a minute or so and costs between 20 – 25 GEL.  You’ll see many men waiting with their horses, but the price seems absolutely absurd. I understand it’s necessary during some seasons of the Mestia to Ushguli trek. The men with horses are usually waiting at the deeper section of the river, so follow other hikers leads.

The price may be steep but in some cases the horses are absolutely necessary. It’s never worth risking your life to save money.

Adishi River Crossing via Chkhunderi Pass to Iprali

After the Adishi river crossing, meander your way back on the trail. Hopefully you didn’t stray too far. This entire section of the Mestia to Ushguli trek boasts stunning views of the Adishi Glacier. Expect a steep uphill climb to the pass, but stop to rest at one of many excellent viewpoints. It takes a little around an hour to reach the Chkhunderi Pass from the river. The Chkhunderi pass is the highest point of the Mestia to Ushguli trek at an elevation of 8,711 ft (2,655 m).

At the Chkhunderi pass it is possible to wander out along some of the ridge lines. I spent quite a bit of time walking the ridges and savoring epic 360° views.

At the pass, there are signboards for Iprali that lead into the next valley. Keep the Khaldechala River to your left and follow the downhill trail. The trail will pass by shepherd huts before the tiny village of Khalde.

Khlade has one guest house, Guest House Khalde Century House of Larisa. There is also an opportunity to purchase some snack or beer all while savoring views of the Khalde River valley.

🥾 The path from Chkhunderi Pass to Khalde is about 4 miles 

Most trekkers continue to sleep in Iprali village, which is up the dirt road about 1.75 miles and takes just about an hour.

Mestia to Ushguli Hiking Overview of Day 3

• Distance: 10.5 miles
• Duration:5 – 7 hours, but more time if you walk intensively along the ridges near Chkhunderi Pass
  • Where to Sleep in Iprali village:
    • The Betegi Guest House in Iprali is an awesome Iprali accommodation choice. This is the best food I had on the Mestia to Ushguli trek. The rooms are cozy with plug-ins. Out back, there is a lovely fenced in garden with seats and grassy spots to sit and enjoy the view. The dinning hall is cozy and everyone eats family style. Don’t rush off right after dinner, instead, sing karaoke with the enthusiastic host. We had one of the best nights of the Ushguli trek staying up late singing and drinking wine (until the guesthouse ran out of drinks and we were lovingly shooed to bed by the house mama).

Betegi Guest House Iprali | Room Cost: 50 GEL with dinner and breakfast | Best Food along Mestia to Ushguli Trek | Hot showers | Enthusiastic and lively hosts | Backyard Garden | Wi-Fi | Book here

More Places to Sleep in Iprali

Iprali is a very small village and the hike to Ushguli the next day will follow the main road. There are a few more Iprali guest houses, but Betegi Guest house was such a unique experience, try not to miss it.

As the path from Iprali to Ushguli can be quite mundane, some opt to arrange a ride into Ushguli rather than walk along the dusty road.

Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4 | Iprali to Ushguli

After a hearty breakfast, head towards Ushguli. Again, some people may choose to take a car into Ushguli, as the path follows along the road.

The mostly flat hiking trail can be mundane. Another alternative trekking option is to take the footpath through the forest at the village of Davberi. Iprali to Davberi is only 2 miles. You need to walk to the village of Davberi along the lnguri River basin and continue on the forest footpath route. Look for a trail marker for this path. There’s also nice views overlooking Davberi community and river valley.

Follow the trail until you see the signpost for Ushguli. The footpath from Davberi to the first Ushguli village of Murkmeli should take 2 hours.

Ushguli village is actually a collection of five small communities, the first being Murkmeli. The other four include Chazhashi, Chvibiani, and Zhibiani, and Lamjrishi. The communities boast eight churches and the tallest point in Georgia, Mount Shkhara at an elevation of 17,037 ft (5,193 m).

Hike to Ushguli

The first village of Murkmeli is worthwhile to wander through. However, as the Mestia to Ushguli trek is gaining popularity, many of the communities are starting to charge entrance fees. As of 2021, a 2 GEL entrance fee may be asked to pass through Murkmeli.

Pass through Murkmeli and continue on the small bridge path. This keeps the Inguri River to your left. Pass by a few makeshift cafes. Soon, this simple river path runs into the tiny hamlet of Chazhashi. The village of Chazhashi has over 200 medieval Svan towers standing.

Once in Ushguli there are plenty of cafes, guesthouses, and even some day hikes options. Some hikers may choose to head back to Mestia on the same day.

Mestia to Ushguli Hiking Overview of Day 4

• Distance: 7.5 miles with Davberi Forest Pass & Murkmeli community
• Duration:3 hours
  • Personal Schedule: Left Iprali village at 9:00 and arrived to my Ushguli Guesthouse at 12:00
• Where to Sleep in Ushguli village:
  • Guesthouse Data is a little off the beaten path, nestled on the hillside. It’s a little outside of the main town area, but worthwhile. The hosts here are warm and serve up dinner and breakfast. The bathroom is huge and has more than one warm shower in the bathroom. Beds are basic, but private rooms are available. There’s lots of green space and a nice fenced in yard. Meals are served in a simple dinning room, not family style. There are only a few tables, so make sure to arrange the breakfast time, to avoid a wait for breakfast.

Guest House Data Ushguli | Room Cost: 40 GEL with breakfast, opted out dinner | Hot showers and a huge bathroom | Friendly hosts | Fenced in Garden Space | Wi-Fi & Plug-ins | Book here

More Ushguli Guesthouses

Ushguli is a popular day trip from Mestia, so the mornings to mid-afternoons are busy in the village, especially during peak summer months. However, more travelers are opting to sleep in Ushguli to experience the village after the day trippers leave. It seems like every other building in the small village is actually a Ushguli guest house or in some accommodating to visitors. Needless to say, there are plenty of Ushguli guest houses to choose from.

Make sure to decide if you want your meals includes. Ushguli is one place along the trekking route from Mestia that provides dinning options outside the guesthouses.

➜ Browse all the Ushguli Guest House options

Add-on Ushguli Hike to Shkhara Glacier

Ushguli is super cute and it’s nice to wander around the four tiny hamlets that make up this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Another claim to fame is that Ushguli is “one of highest continuously inhabited village in Europe” at 6,900 ft (2,100 m). But there are many Georgian villages that claim fame on this statement, including this sole man who lives in Bochorna Georgia in the unspoiled Tusheti Region.

Since the last day of the Mestia to Ushguli hike is casual and short, it’s nice to add on the mostly flat out and back hike to the Shkhara Glacier. The Shkhara Mountain is also the highest point in Georgia, so it makes for a great day hike. There is the possibility to take a horse, but the path is easy to navigate. It’s close to 5 miles to a nice viewpoint of the glacier (10 miles round trip) and takes around 4 hours.

The trail to the glacier viewpoint follows along a dirt gravel road, and honestly, is not as scenic as some of the previous Mestia to Ushguli trekking days. Near the viewpoint of the glacier, there’s a little cafe serving up beverages and meals. It’s expensive, so try to eat in town before departing to the glacier. The little cafe is cute and is a nice spot to enjoy a beverage. Either relax at the outside tables with a view, or warm up in the cozy interior.

How to Return to Mestia from Ushguli Village

After visiting Ushguli, you will eventually need to get back to Mestia.

The best way to get to Mestita from Ushguli is to hop in a Marshrutka or find a shared car. Catch shared vans or taxis near Cafe Bar Enguri. Many drivers are lined along the bridge eagerly waiting to take people back to Mestia. Make sure to negotiate prices with the drivers before entering the car. 

☛ Travel Tip | There are usually many people trying to get back to Mestia in the early morning around 9:00, so try to find other hikers to split the cost. I was able to catch a ride back with another couple and split a car driving the dirt road to Mestia.

🚐 Ushguli to Mestia Marshrutka | Departure: near Cafe Bar Enguri | Average cost: 40 GEL per person, but I’ve heard people could negotiate for less | Duration: 2 hours

Along the road to Mestia the driver may opt to stop at places along the way like the Tower of Love for a price. Or, they may just wish to swiftly return to Mestia. My driver was happily passing around chacha (strong Georgian liquor) to passengers at 9:00 a.m.

Departing Mestia

Those looking to immediately depart Mestia to explore more of Georgia will more than likely have to take a Marshrutka to Zugdidi. In Zugdidi, there are transfer to Tbilisi or Batumi via train.

At the time of publication, there were only two daily marshrutka departures from Mestia to Zugdidi at 12:00 and 14:00. Of course, during the peak season there may be more options. Remember, the bus station is located near the main plaza and post office so check the time table before departing on the Mestia Ushguli trek.

If looking to catch one of these buses, make sure to plan your departure from Ushguli village accordingly.

More Georgia Travel Guides | 2 Day Tbilisi Itinerary with All the Highlights | Things to Do Near Majanishvili Street Tbilisi | Where to Eat in Batumi

Total Cost of Mestia to Ushguli Trek 4 Days

So, how much did a 4 day Mestia to Ushguli trek cost me? I ended up leaning towards a more expensive trek, since I opted to staying in guesthouses, eating traditional meals, and sharing drinks with fellow hikers at nights. The trek is very social during dinner and staying in guesthouses adds a cultural aspect to the hike.

Prices on the table are rounded to the nearest 25¢

Expenses	GEL (ლ)	USD($)
Hatsvali Ski Lift Cable Car Fee	20 ლ	$6.75
Guest Houses with Meals (3 Nights in a Guest room, 1 Night camping)	170 ლ	$58
Misc. Snacks and Beverages	20 ლ	$6.75
Marshrutka to Ushguli to Mestia	40 ლ	$13.50
Total	250 ლ	$85

My average daily cost of the Mestia to Ushguli trek was around $21 US

It would be easy to cut expenses by camping and cooking your own meals. Of course, the food of the Svaneti is unique to the region. Sampling the food helps you understand these hearty people who have survived the test of time in these remote villages. All of the food is made with love and usually from scratch.

With that being said, it would be probable to do this the hike from Mestia to Ushguli for under $40 USD in total with proper cookware, substantial food, and gear. However, the guesthouses along the way to Ushguli really did make this trek an unforgettable experience.

Hiking Mestia To Ushguli Trek Guide

This 4 day itinerary for trekking Mestia to Ushguli takes an alternative route through Tsvirmi village. The “standard” Mestia to Ushguli trek usually includes a night in Zhabeshi on the first day.

The hiking route to the untouched village of Tsvirmi is easy to reach from the Hatsvali ski life that is located right in the heart of Mestia Svaneti. This alternative trekking route to Ushguli allows for the opportunity to break away from the “crowds” and appreciate the incredible beauty and solitude of the Upper Svaneti region and the breathtaking Caucasus Mountains.

This Mestia to Ushguli trekking guide includes: a free and downloadable Mestia to Ushguli trek map, hiking tips, general Mestia Ushguli packing list, and basic information that comes in handy to complete this top-rated Georgia trek in 4 days. I’ve also included a typical budget for hiking Mestia to Ushguli.

Have you visited the Upper Svaneti region in Georgia? Have you heard about one of Georgia’s most popular multi day treks? Will you add the Mestia to Ushguli trek to your bucket-list? I would love to know what you thought about it or if there are any route or trail update please let me know in the comments below!

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