How to Visit Ons Island in the Stunning Pontevedra Estuary
The Ons archipelago consists of two main islands: Ons and Onza. The largest is Ons Island and is inhabited by less than 100 visitors. Onza is the smaller of the two islands and is a completely protected natural reserve.
The Ons Islands are part of the increidble Maritime-Terrestrial National Park of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia. The Isla de Ons are found in the Pontevedra Estuary and are not nearly as visited as the neighboring Cíes Islands in the Vigo Estuary.
The island of Ons offers plenty of hiking trails, beaches, unique landscapes, and is home to one of the best pulperías (place that serves traditional style octopus) in Galicia.
The Ons Islands are protected, which means that the region limits how many people can visit the islands each day. This guide explains all the details on how to get to Ons Island, and tips for getting a free permit. Also included is a brief overview on the hiking trails on Ons Island and what to see and do. I’ve also included different options for sleeping on Ons and tips for visiting.
Here’s a quick guide on what to see on Ons Island, one of the most underrated islands of the National Park of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia.
Table of Contents
- How to Get to Ons Island
- General Rules for Respecting the Natural Park of Ons Island
- Tips for Visiting Isla de Ons
- Ons Island Hiking Routes
- The Best Things to Do on Ons Island
- What to Pack for a Day Trip to Ons Island
- Where to Sleep on Ons Island
- Is Ons Island Worth Visiting?
- Conclusion | An Overview of Visiting Ons Island & What to Do There
How to Get to Ons Island
The Illa de Ons is not one of the most popular places to see in Galicia, but for me it’s one of the most special. It still feels more untouched than its neighbor, the Cíes Islands.
Galicia is a unique region found in the northwestern corner of Spain. The Ons Islands are on the outer stretches of the Ría de Pontevedra. Technically the islands fall under the Bueu Municipality of Pontevedra Province.
The islands of Ons are protected, which means that the regional government has limited the number of daily visitors. During the high season, only 1,300 can visit Ons each day. The off-season is even more limited with a limiting capacity of 250-450 people. These rules are set in place to help prevent over-tourism.
The only way to visit Ons Islands is by taking a ferry or private boat. If you plan on taking your own boat, you must have an anchorage permit, which the local government of the Xunta explains here.
Authorization Permits for Isla de Ons
Over the time frame of Easter week and every day from May 15 – September 15, you must also have an authorization permit to visit Ons Island. These permits are issued by the Xunta of Galicia. The first thing you must do is request a permit for the day you wish to visit. After that, you receive the confirmation of your permit by email.
With the confirmation code, you have a two-hour window to purchase ferry tickets.
The permit is free but is required during the high season. Authorization can be requested up to 90 days in advance of your travel date and cancelled up to 15 days before departure.
Ons Island Authorization (High Season) | Cost: Free | Xunta of Galicia Island Authorization
If you wish to visit the Illa de Ons outside of the permitted time frame it is possible. Simply purchase your ferry ticket. Note that during the offseason ferries run less frequently and typically only from Bueu and Portonovo (Sanxenxo).
Ons Island Ferry Companies
During the high season (July and August), there are multiple ferry companies that offer trips to the Ons Island from many different ports including: Vigo, Bueu, Portonovo, Sanxenxo, Combarro, Ribeira, and Pontevedra.
During the low season, ferries typically only depart from Bueu and Portonovo.
These are four of the main Cies Island ferry companies
Each company has different departure locations, prices, times, and an allocation of daily visitor slots. It’s best to browse each company to find which one works best for you. This is mostly dependent on your desired departure port.
I ended up using Naviera Nabia, which I also used to visit the Cíes Island. Every time I’ve used Naviera Nabia, I’ve had an awesome experience. I visited during the off-season, so I did not need to get an authorization permit. I departed from Bueu, a small fishing village on the stunning Morrazo peninsula.
My round trip ferry ticket cost me 12€ (purchased online) and took around 45 minutes each way.
Make sure that if you purchase your ticket online you stop at the physical ticket desk before departure and get a printed ticket. This has your departure and return ticket and is collected when you board the ferry. In Bueu, it’s right near where you board the ferry here.
I was fortunate to have amazing weather and ample time to explore the island (around 6 hours).
General Rules for Respecting the Natural Park of Ons Island
The Ons Islands are included in the Parque Nacional Marítimo-Terrestre de las Islas Atlánticas de Galicia. That means it is a protected area. In order to obtain its prestigious and fragile ecosystem these rules must be respected.
➜ Make sure to carry a trash bag. There are no garbages on the island and you must pack in and out all your trash. Don’t leave anything behind! Pack it in…. pack it out!
➜ Do not take anything from the island. Do not collect seashells, sand, or anything else from the islands. Take photos and memories.
➜ Do not bother or feed the wildlife. There are many birds throughout the year that migrate and spend time on the islands. There are also lizards, marine life, and fish. On Ons, I saw lots of rabbits, too! Do not disturb them or feed them (especially the seagulls who can be aggressive).
➜ Stay on the footpaths and hiking trails. This is a delicate natural area so never leave the designated trails. Some trails will be closed during certain time periods, make sure to respect the trail closures by following the official marked signboards. Don’t walk on physically closed trails!
➜ No dogs or pets are allowed on the Islands. The only exception to this law is service dogs.
Tips for Visiting Isla de Ons
These are just some general tips I have for day trippers looking to make the most of their day.
➜ Bring enough food. If you plan on hiking and lounging at the beach, a picnic is the perfect way to cut down on expenses. Ons is an inhibited village. There is a small tienda and a few restaurants right by the port, so it’s great if you decide to eat there, too. Don’t forget a garbage bag, there are no trash services on the island.
➜ Stock up on water before you depart. While there were a few fountains on the island, many of the signs said the water was not potable. There are tiendas/cafes to purchase supplies, but if traveling during the off-season they are not always open. It is more expensive to purchase water here than the mainland.
➜ Beware of the Sea Gulls. Honestly, these birds are persistent and determined to claim your food and belongings. Do not feed them anything! Hide your food in a backpack and keep it weighed down, because I’ve seen them try to carry away bags of food.
➜ Bathrooms. There is a public bathroom near the Visitor’s Center. While I was there, they were closed. I had to utilize the restrooms in the cafes and restaurants with a purchase (of course).
➜ Be mindful of your ferry times. One thing I noticed about the ferries is they do not blow the horn for “last call for boarding.” You must be conscious with your time or risk missing your ferry and having to purchase another ticket or end up shelling out extra money to sleep overnight. There is no boarding terminal, only the gangway near the main neighborhood, Curro .
‼️ All ferry companies suggest arriving at least 10 minutes before departure time
Ons Island Hiking Routes
All of the hikes are labeled with signboards and marked by color. Remember it’s so important to protect the landscape, flora and fauna, so always stay on the trails.
The trails differ in surface from dirt, concrete, to grass. If planning on hiking, make sure to wear comfortable hiking shoes and not beach flip flops. There are some steep ascents and descents even though this is an island.
- Ruta Norte | 8.1 KM | +/- 3 Hours | Blue
- Ruta Sur | 6.2 KM | +/- 2.5 Hours | Green
- Ruta Castelo | 1.1 KM | +/- 40 Minutes | Red
- Ruta do Faro | 4 KM | +/ – 1.5 Hours | Yellow
Always respect the trail closures which are apparent with signboards and arrows. All of these routes are circular, but it’s possible to combine the routes with connector trails.
I ended seeing all these highlights and recorded my trail here. Remember to respect all closure signs due to protecting animals habitats and breeding habits.
🥾 My Ons Island Hike | Combination of 3 hiking routes (South, North, Lighthouse) | Distance: 8.75 miles (14 KM) | Duration: 5.5 hours with stops & beach time
The 8 Best Things to Do on Ons Island
Here’s how to make the most of a day trip to Ons Islands. I was able to see all of these sights in one day.
This itinerary includes a mixture of hiking trails and beach time as I think they are both worthwhile activities on the islands. Some may feel inclined to roll up to the beach and not move until the ferry comes. Others may wish to indulge in the local cuisine or stay close to the town.
Here’s some of the best things to do on Ons Island from hiking, swimming, and of course, eating!
1⎟Savor the Views of the Ferry Ride
On a clear day, head to the top of the ferry to get those spectacular estuary views. I left from Bueu, so there are lovely views of the village and the peninsula.
On my trip from Bueu to Ons, we saw lots of dolphins!
2⎟Explore Curro Neighborhood
The ferry docks right in front of the Curro “neighborhood.” There are less than 100 people who live on Ons, and this is the largest concentration of inhabitants. This settlement was built with help from the Xunta during the 1960’s.
This is where you’ll find the Tourist Information Center. There is an onsite museum here as well. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to visit as it was closed when I arrived. The hours are quite limited.
Here, you’ll find all the restaurants on the island: Casa Cecho, Casa Acuña, and Bar O Pirata. There is also a small tienda that sells snacks and beverages, for a much higher cost than the mainland.
As this is the largest settlement, you’ll find the islands only church, Iglesia de San Joaquín. The church has simple stained-glass windows and some paitnings that remind us how tied to the sea this island is.
Close to the church is also the only public restroom on the island and a first-aid center. Here you can also find lots of benches and a shaded area for those who packed in their lunch.
3⎟See the Best Highlights of the South Hiking Route
I started my hike on Ons Island by taking the southern hiking route. The naturalist guide actually recommend it and said it offers some of the best highlights.
Highlights were the aerial views of the beach Area dos Cans and the longer Canexol Beach. The small uphill climb also offers a section through a forest, which is uncommon on the island.
For me, one of the best things about the South Route was the viewpoint of Fedorentos. This is where you’ll get incredible views of Onza Island. In the far backdrop, it’s also possible to see the main Island of Cíes. There is a small area to rest and enjoy the views.
Miradoiro de Fedorentos was one of my favorite places on the entire island.
After that, the trail leads to Buraco do Inferno, or the “hell hole.” This is a collapsed sea cave that has been surrounded by many myths and legends. Some say that the noise the cavern would make sounded like souls being carried away by the devil.
Take caution when visiting, there is a stone fence surrounding the open cavern, but do not get too close to the opening.
The trail continues along the rugged west coast of the island. From here, it’s nothing but the vast views of the wild Atlantic Ocean.
From here, you can continue along the west coast of Ons. I walked along the paved trail (lighthouse route) until arriving at the Ons lighthouse.
4⎟Walk By the Faro de Ons
The Ons lighthouse is definitely impressive. It also sits on the highest point of the entire island.
It is not possible to visit the interior of the lighthouse as it still is maintained by a lighthouse keeper. One things I really loved about the Faro de Ons was the tiles on the exterior.
After I visited the lighthouse, I rejoined the North hiking route.
5⎟Discover the Highlights of the North Hiking Route
Again, highlights of the North route include the rugged cliffs of the west side of the island.
I saw so many of the island’s Ocellated lizards, which were quite large. Sure enough, I saw a signboard later explaining that these lizards are much larger than mainland lizards. The Ocellated Lizards on Ons island have been separated from the mainland lizards almost 9,000 years when the islands formed due to rising sea levels. They were fairly active during my visit.
I continued along the trail to observe the stunning rocky coves.
Another highlight of the North Route is the Punta do Centolo viewpoint. This mirador offers sweeping views of the Pontevedra Estuary and the sandy shores of O Grove peninsula. It’s also a fantastic place to savor the 360° views of the entire island.
⁉️ Be mindful that Centolo viewpoint closes during seagull breeding season. There are conflicting dates on the park website, so always check in with a local guide. Observe the closure signs, the red and white no passing signs are visible throughout the hiking trails and should be respected.
The north route continues to one of the best beaches on Ons Island, Praia de Melide.
6⎟Bare it All at Mielde Beach
Mielde Beach sits on the east shores of Ons Island. It is tucked away from the strong waves of the Atlantic Ocean and more in the Ria de Pontevedra. This is a fabulous primitive white sand beach. It’s worth noting that it’s also a nude beach. Of course, you can always enjoy the beach in a swimsuit.
There are no services on Mielde Beach and no life guard. Always be mindful of the sea conditions. Near the staircase is a small water faucet to clean your feet.
7⎟Relax at More Beaches on Isla de Ons
The other three main beaches of Ons are close to the ferry ports.
Praia das Dornas is on the right hand side of the dock.
Again, near Curro settlement find the Praia Area dos Cans (with nearby picnic space) and Praia de Canexol. The farthest beach from the dock is Praia do Pereiró, which is found en route to the Miradoiro de Fedorentos.
Remember, although the beaches of Galicia are stunning, the water can be frigid (or quite fresh!) depending on your tolerance. Even during the off-season, I braved the cold waters to take a swim.
8⎟Eat the Best Octopus in Galicia
There are three restaurants in Curro settlement that all serve up traditional Galician dishes.
The most famous restaurant is Restaurante Casa Acuña. This restaurant has been open since the 1940s and is known for its polbo á feira, a traditional way to cook octopus. The owner won a competition in Galicia for having the best Octopus.
What to Pack for the Ons Islands
Here’s what I packed for my day trip to Isla de Ons. My main goal was to hike and enjoy the beaches.
I packed everything in my Osprey Daylite Plus Daypack. I had a quick-dry towel, my swimsuit (optional for the nude beach), and a packable rain jacket. This was great to block the wind on the ferry and of course it can rain at anytime in Galicia.
Don’t forget a trash bag as you will need to take all your trash with you off the island.
I also picked up some snacks and food to have a picnic. I filled up my go-to Hydro Flask Lightweight Water Bottle because I had trouble finding an usable water sources on the island.
Some people say if planning on hiking, then a good pair of hiking shoes or a pair of trail runners is required. I did hike with trail runners just because I put on quite a few miles and wore them with a good pair of wool socks. I brought along my classic Chacos sandals for the beach and after swimming.
If you want to bring hiking poles, they may come in handy, especially if doing more than one hiking route. I put on a lot of miles on my visit to Ons Island.
I also brought my spare power bank because I took a lot of photos.
I found a baseball hat was great to keep the sun out of my eyes and I always wear a buff around my neck on sunny days. I wore hiking shorts and then brought a Merino wool long sleeve shirt to help protect from the sun.
Layers are always so important in Galicia.
Where to Sleep on Ons Island
On Ons Island, accommodation options range from camping to hotels.
Note that during high season, sometimes a two night minimum is required to sleep on Ons Island.
Camping Isla de Ons
There is a campsite on Ons Island here.
There are many options for camping on Ons, from glamping experiences to standard tents. Even the standard tents offer basic bed. Those on a budget can bring their own tent to camp.
The campsite also offers a cafeteria and shop for groceries. There is Wi-Fi, hot water, laundry, and outlets to charge devices.
Camping season runs from Easter week and typically May 15 -Sept 14.
➜ Here’s the official website of Camping Isla de Ons
Places to Stay on Ons Island
The major difference between the Cíes Islands and Ons Island is that there are actual places to rent to sleep, not just a campground.
➜ Casa Acuña offers a few different apartment options.
➜ Aloxamento Pirata also offers an apartment
Is Ons Island Worth Visiting?
Yes, Isla de Ons is definately worth visiting! It is often overshadowed by it’s more popular neighbor of the Isla de Cíes. Those looking to experience a quieter island will love visiting Ons. For me, I loved the hiking trails on Ons and thought they were better than the Cíes Island trails.
If you have time, time to visit both Cíes and Ons Islands in Galicia.
Conclusion | An Overview of Visiting Ons Island & What to See There
In short, this is my complete guide on how to visit the Isla de Ons as a day trip. This complete guide includes how to get to Ons island and information on how to get a permit during high season
I’ve shared my favorite things to do on Ons Island from hiking trails to beaches. This guide also includes helpful information how to visit this natural park in Galicia, useful things to pack, and information on camping and restaurants on the island.
This Ons Island guide includes a mixture of hiking, eating, and spending time at the beach. Don’t bypass visiting this special island in the Rías Baixas in Galicia.
Have you been to the Illa de Ons? Did you enjoy the hiking trails and beaches? Is there anything in this article that needs updating? Please let me know in the comments below!
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