Why You Should Walk the Beautiful Camino Real to San Millan de la Cogolla and Visit the Yuso and Suso Monasteries
One of my most memorable days on the Camino Frances pilgrimage route was walking the Camino Real. This intrepid route connects the villages of Najera to San Millan de la Cogolla. These two villages in Spain are found in the autonomous community of La Rioja, a region steeped with history and covered in vineyards.
The Camino Real finishes at the impressive UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Monasteries of Yuso & Suso in San Millan de la Cogolla.
The Monasteries of Yuso and Suso make an incredible addition to the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. This pair of monasteries are two of the culturally richest sites in Spain.
This walking guide includes detailed information on the Camino Real walking route, a detailed map, and tips for visiting the Yuso and Suso Monasteries. Additionally, find out how to utilize public transportation if you don’t feel comfortable walking the Camino Real and how to rejoin the Camino Frances route.
No matter how you get to San Millan de la Cogolla, it is one place you don’t want to miss on the Camino Frances!
Table of Contents
Disclosure: This is part of my Hikes & Adventures series, which means these treks can be strenuous and challenging. These are my experiences and I am not an expert. Please have all the proper equipment, verify the weather conditions, use professional resources, do your own research, be mindful of constantly changing trail conditions, and take into consideration your own physical abilities and/or limitations. These guides are for entertainment purposes only. Please see my full disclosure for more information here.
- Map & Overview of the Camino Real
- Preparing for the Camino Real
- Najera to San Millan de la Cogolla on the Camino Real
- Visiting the UNESCO Sites of Yuso Monastery & Suso Monastery
- How to Rejoin the Camino Frances Route
- Don’t Miss the Yuso & Suso Monastery in San Millan de la Cogolla
Map & Overview of the Camino Real
Camino Real Overview
- Walk this Trail as an Out & Back Trail or Point to Point Trail
- The following map is from Najera to San Millan de la Cogolla
- Official Trail Name: The Camino Real
- Trail Markers are far and few between but an offline map should suffice
- Look for yellow and white wooden signboards and sporadic yellow arrows
- Difficulty: Moderate, due to the limited waymarkers
- One-Way Distance: 11.25 miles ( 18 km)
- Excursion Duration: The walk from Najera to San Millan de la Cogolla takes around 4 hours
- Most visitors walking from Najera to San Millan de la Cogolla are pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances Route
- Camino Packing List for Females
- If doing the hike as a day trip and returning to Najera, opt for carrying a small day pack, rather than carrying all your gear
- On the Camino, I loved using this Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil Travel Day Pack
- First-Aid Kit
- Water in a Reusable Water Bottle
- Trekking Poles
- Hiking Boots or trail runners, whatever shoes you decided for your Camino
- Pilgrim Credencial for stamps and discounted entrance fees
- Euros for cafes, restaurants, and admission to the Monastery of San Millan de Yuso & Suso
➯ Hey… don’t forget your Travel Insurance! I love SafetyWing
Preparing for the Camino Real
Those pilgrims looking to add the Camino Real detour to the Camino Frances pilgrimage would benefit from sleeping in the village of Najera the night before. Najera is a fantastic pilgrim town on the Camino de Santiago French Way.
There is a Municipal Albergue in Najera that works on a first-come, first-served basis. The price is €6 for a bed (48 beds). This lively albergue offers community meals and is a great place to stay in Najera. Remember, reservations are not possible for Municipal Albergues.
Psst… I loved the Najera Municipal Albergue! Here are more of my favorite Camino Frances Albergues
Najera is a popular pilgrim village, so there is no shortage of hostels, hotels, pensions, private albergues, and places to stay in Najera Spain. Najera has plenty of grocery stores, and shops, so makes for an ideal place to stock up on snacks and picnic items.
Najera is a tranquil pueblo on the Najerillo River. The most popular thing to do in Najera is to visit the Monastery of Santa María la Real. In Najera, it’s possible to visit the abandoned archaeological site of the Alcazar ruins. The uphill path takes about 30 minutes.
If visiting Najera on the weekend, it’s possible to go the the Cueva el Castillo, or Cave castle. The intricate cave system can only be visited on a guided tour. Check-in with the Najera Tourist Information Center to set up a tour.
The path to San Millan de la Cogolla takes around 4 hours. As in most places in Spain, the hours of the Yuso Monastery and Suso Monastery vary and are closed for siesta during mid-day. This is why it’s best to sleep in Najera before walking the Camino Real to San Millan de la Cogolla.
➜ Camino de Santiago Guide | 10 Camino Frances Detours That Are Totally Worth It
Don’t Feel Comfortable Walking the Camino Real to San Millan de la Cogolla?
The Camino Real can be intimidating, especially with fewer trail markers. Did you know that less than 1% of pilgrims opt to walk the Camino Real? The trail to San Millan de la Cogolla should not be walked in poor weather conditions due to the possibility of rock slides.
There is a local bus that connects Najera to San Millan de Cogolla. Make sure to verify the bus times that are posted outside the local Tourist Office in Najera.
The bus route is Logroño – Estollo and is known as VLR-108. The bus fare costs around 2 Euros for a one-way ticket.
Logroño- Estollo VLR-108 Bus Route
| Departure | Monday – Friday | Saturday | Sunday & Holidays |
| Nájera | 13:25 & 19:05 | 8:25 & 19:30 | 8:55 |
| Tricio | 13:30 & 19:10 | 8:30 & 19:35 | 9:00 |
| Arenzana de Abajo | 13:35 & 19:15 | 8:35 & 19:40 | 9:05 |
| Cárdenas | 13:40 & 19:20 | 8:40 & 19:45 | 9:10 |
| Badarán | 13:45 & 19:25 | 8:45 & 19:50 | 9:15 |
| Berceo | 13:50 & 19:30 | 8:50 & 19:55 | 9:20 |
| San Millán de la Cogolla | 13:55 & 19:35 | 8:55 & 20:00 | 9:25 |
➜ Check the official website here for the updated schedule
Make sure to take note of the return times back to Najera if you opt to walk the Camino Real as a day trip.
Tours to Yuso and Suso Monasteries
Alternatively, there are organized tours to San Millan de Cogolla, but they are only offered from Logroño.
Najera to San Millan de la Cogolla on the Camino Real
Here’s how to walk to San Millan de la Cogolla from Najera.
Najera to Badaran Village
The Camino Real starts from the Plaza Mercado Najera and is marked with an official signboard. The trailhead is located right alongside the dramatic red cliffs. The section next to the cliffs can be narrow and is a relatively short distance. However, this is one of the best parts of the Camino Real.
Be mindful of the signboard warning of the dangers of rockslides at the start of the trailhead. Always use common sense and avoid walking in bad weather, or when the trails are saturated and extremely muddy. Rockslides can happen with the fragile red cliffs.
Once past the beautiful red cliffs, there are two main routes of the Camino Real. The left fork twists through the vineyards to Badaran. The trail to the right heads towards Cordovin village.
The vineyard trail to Badaran isn’t as well marked, so an offline map will be essential. The right trail to Cordovin village is supposedly easier to follow. Once in Cordovin, you will need to walk on an asphalt road into Badaran.
Either trail is fine, remember, the best Camino de Santiago tip is to walk your own way along your own path.
My small Camino family opted to walk through the heart of the vineyards. We couldn’t get enough of the views on the quiet and tranquil path. The morning sun amplified the richness of the red soil that gives this region the name of “La Rioja.”
We were appreciating the views a little too much, and found ourselves on a side path that took us to the outskirts of Cardenas village. A quick glance at an offline map allowed us to easily merge back on the path to Badaran.
🥾 Najera to Badarán | Vineyard Path | Distance: 6.5 Miles
Badarán to San Millan de la Cogolla
Badarán village is super cute and worth a quick pit stop. The people are extremely friendly and the town definitely has a charm to it.
As you approach the end of the village of Badaran, look for the wooden sign on the left side of the road. The signboard is labeled “Camino Real, Vado de la Reina.” This footpath is the official Camino Real route and helps to avoid walking the rest of the way on the asphalt road.
The trail leads to a small bridge to cross over the Cardenas River. Right after the crossing, there are two trail options to reach the village of San Millan de la Cogolla. We saw two locals fishing near the bridge and asked them which trail was best. They laughed and said “igualmente.” So, both trails are practically the same.
The closest trail is the “river trail.” Alternatively, you can see in the distance the other trail. The far trail appeared to be a little more wide and marked. Both trails essentially run parallel to each other.
We opted to walk the “river trail,” which was lovely. Be mindful that the trail is grassy and not as well-traveled. Some sections of the path can be overgrown with brush.
No matter which trail you choose they both merge together to cross the river, right before the village of Berceo. The village should be on your right-hand side.
Another place to note is the Berceo camping facilities, which will be to the left. This campground is right before San Millan de la Cogolla and has cabanas, a pool, and a campsite. The Camping Berceo is another popular sleeping option just outside San Millan de la Cogolla. From Camping Berco, the Monastery of Yuso is about a mile away. Less than a 20-minute walk!
The village of San Millan de la Cogolla welcomes you with beautiful streets and distant views of the Yuso Monastery.
🥾 Badaran to San Millan de la Cogolla | Distance: 4.75 Miles
Visiting the UNESCO Sites of Yuso Monastery & Suso Monastery
The Monasteries of Yuso & Suso are two separate entities. That means each Monastery requires different entrance tickets and has different opening times. The only way to visit both the Yuso Monastery and the Suso Monastery is on a guided tour. Daily tours are currently only in Spanish, but there are some English plaque boards.
Tips for Visiting the Yuso & Suso Monasteries
The ticket office for the Monastery of Yuso is found upstairs where the main street entrance is located. Logistically, it’s best to purchase tickets for the Yuso Monastery first. There is oftentimes a long line and it’s harder to get tickets for the Monastery of San Millan de Yuso.
Don’t forget to show your pilgrim credencial when purchasing your ticket. This allows you to receive the pilgrim discount and get a stamp.
After purchasing the ticket for the Yuso Monastery, head down to the ground floor. The ticket office for the Suso Monastery is here and they can arrange your entrance time to the Suso Monastery.
The small hillside Monastery of Suso can only be reached via a minibus and spaces are limited. The entrance ticket includes the complementary bus ride up the upper monastery. The tours of the Suso Monastery are shorter, so it’s easier to work in a visit.
➜ Be mindful that like most places in Spain, the Monasteries of Yuso and Suso shut down during lunchtime, usually between 13:30 – 16:00.
Yuso Monastery | Monasterio de Yuso
Monasterio de Yuso | Entrance Fee: €4 with the Pilgrim Credencial discount | Hours: Hours vary by season, but Summer hours are Easter Weekend – End of September: Tues – Sunday: 10:00 – 13:30 / 16:00 – 18:30 (Closed Sunday afternoons & Mondays) | Yuso Monastery guided tour takes about an hour | Yuso Monastery Official Website
The Monastery of San Millan Yuso is stunning. Interestingly enough, there is still a community of monks that live in the Monastery.
The first part of the Yuso Monastery tour moves through the breathtaking main church and choir. Make sure to not miss the main stand that holds the massive Gregorian Chant books. You’ll get to see these treasures later on in the tour.
Next, the tour moves to the Sacristy Room. Here, appreciate the beautifully hand-painted frescoes on the ceilings and the walls. The room was one of my favorite stops in the Yuso Monastery.
The tour showcases a viewing of the giant Gregorian chant books. These impressive books date back to the 18th century. There are also chances to view valuables that belong to the Yuso Monastery.
A highlight of the Yuso Monastery tour is a chance to observe a replica of the Glosas Emilianenses. The Gloas Emilianenses are the first-ever known writings in Castilian Spanish. It is said that San Millan is considered to be the “cradle of the Spanish language” as we know it today.
The Yuso Monastery is definitely worth a visit and is one of the most overlooked monasteries in Spain.
Suso Monastery | Monasterio de Suso
Monasterio de Suso | Entrance Fee: €3.25 with the Pilgrim Credencial discount | Hours: Hours vary by season, but Summer hours are Easter Weekend – End of September: Tues – Sunday: 9:55 – 13:25 / 15:55 – 17:55 (Closed Mondays) | Suso Monastery guided tour is around 30 minutes
The Suso Monastery is much smaller and located on the above hillside. The name Suso translates from Castilian to mean “upper.”
The bus to the Suso Monastery leaves on the main road outside where you purchase tickets to Yuso Monastery. You must take the bus to the Suso Monastery. No personal cars are allowed on the road up to the hilltop monastery.
It is believed that monks lived here in the cave systems. The actual monastery was built sometime in the mid-6th century.
The Suso Monastery is extremely important, as it is said that the first Spanish writings were written in the caves here.
There is a very special energy at the Suso Monastery. It is something you have to feel to experience. It’s as if you can feel that this site is sacred and “old.” In fact, the Suso Monastery is home to the oldest altar in Spain.
Make sure to take in all those spectacular views of the San Millan valley below. It’s no wonder the Suso Monastery inspired the first written poems in the Castellano Spanish language.
Yuso Monastery Grounds
After visiting the Monasteries in San Millan de la Cogolla, we opted to enjoy a picnic lunch on the grounds of the Yuso Monastery. While the Monasteries of San Millan shut down over lunchtime, the large grounds of the Yuso Monastery remain open.
On the grounds of the Yuso Monastery, find modest bathrooms and a freshwater fountain. There are also garbage cans to dispose of any waste. The grounds provide numerous benches to sit and relax on.
How to Rejoin the Camino Frances Route | 3+ Ways
After visiting the Yuso and Suso Monasteries in San Millan de la Cogolla, there are a few different options on how to return to the main Camino Frances route.
1 | Return to Najera by Foot or Local Bus
Return to Najera by walking back on the same Camino Real Route. Alternatively, the same VLR-108 bus route runs from Estollo to Logroño. The bus fare is around 2 Euros.
Estollo- Logroño VLR-108 Bus Route
| Departure | Monday – Friday | Saturday | Sunday & Holidays |
| San Millan de la Cogolla | 8:50, 15:05, 19:45 | 9:05 & 20:10 | 19:15 |
| Berceo | 8:55, 15:10, 19:50 | 9:10 & 20:15 | 19:20 |
| Badarán | 9:00, 15:15, 19:55 | 9:15 & 20:20 | 19:25 |
| Cárdenas | 9:05, 15:20, 20:00 | 9:20 & 20:25 | 19:30 |
| Arenzana de Abajo | 9:15, 15:30, 20:10 | 9:30 & 20:45 | 19:40 |
| Tricio | 9:20, 15:35, 20:15 | 9:35 & 20:40 | 19:45 |
| Nájera | 9:25, 15:40, 20:20 | 9:40 & 20:45 | 19:50 |
➜Check the official website here for the updated schedule
2 | Sleep in San Millan de la Cogolla
There are plenty of places to sleep in San Millan de la Cogolla. The route is not popular with pilgrims, so expect a tranquil night to savor the peaceful San Millan valley. The following day either: take the bus back to Najera, walk back on the Camino Real, or continue on to Cirueña.
➜ Sleep in the actual monastery at Hostería del Monasterio de San Millan
More top-rated places to sleep in San Millan de la Cogolla Spain
➜ Fábrica de Harinas La Gloria
3 | Continue to Rejoin the Camino Frances for a Full Day
We opted to rejoin the Camino Frances route to Cirueña village in the afternoon. This was a really long day.
🥾 San Millan de la Cogolla to Cirueña | Distance: 8.25 Miles | Duration: +/- 3 hours
The route from San Millan de la Cogolla to Cirueña is a mixture of unmarked paths and paved roads. There will be no “shells” or arrows on the path from San Milan to Cirueña, so an offline map is essential. The roads are not so busy, but make sure to stay on the left for safety.
Remember if you plan on walking from Najera to Cirueña plan on it to take the full day.
🥾 Najera to Cirueña | Distance: 19.5 Miles (31.4 KM) | Duration: +/- 10.5 hours with a visit to the San Millan de la Cogolla Monasteries
Conclusion | Don’t Miss Walking the Camino Real to the Monasteries in San Millan de la Cogolla
In short, this is a walking guide on how to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Monasteries of Yuso and Suso. These two overlooked monasteries in Spain are located in the small pueblo of San Millan de la Cogolla and nestled in a beautiful river valley.
This walking route is a not-so-popular detour on the Camino Frances pilgrimage route, with less than 1% of pilgrims visiting this sacred site.
While the Yuso Monastery and hilltop Suso Monastery are beautiful and filled with history and culture, this detour is more about the journey. The Camino Real is an unforgettable path. The trail passes by red cliffs and caves near Najera, twists through vineyards of the Rioja wine region, and passes by tiny villages.
Don’t miss the chance to visit the worthwhile Monasteries of Yuso and Suso in San Millan de la Cogolla Spain.
Have you visited the Monastery of Yuso and Suso? Did you walk the breathtaking Camino Real pilgrimage route? What did you think? Is there anything that needs to be updated in this guide? Let me know in the comments below!
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