Ponferrada Pilgrim Guide to the Incredible Camino de Invierno

The Camino de Invierno is a spectacular Camino de Santiago route that sees few pilgrims and is a divergent route option from the most popular Camino route, the Camino Frances.

The Camino de Invierno is known as the Winter Way. Originally, it was an alternative path for those pilgrims walking the Camino Frances during the winter months. Pilgrims would divert at Ponferrada to avoid the snow-covered passes near O’Cebreiro.

The Camino de Invierno offered a lower passage through numerous river valleys to arrive at Santiago de Compostela.

Today, the Camino de Invierno can more than stand on its own two feet as a spectacular Camino route. This little trekked path passes by some of Spain’s greatest treasures, like the old Roman Gold mines of Las Médulas, the beautiful Sil River Valley, historical cities, the underrated wine region of Ribeira Sacra, and the mystical Pico Sacro.

The Camino de Invierno route starts at Ponferrada, but some may opt to walk the last 100+ Km from Monteforte de Lemos.

This complete guide is for pilgrims planning to walk the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada. In this comprehensive pilgrim guide find out how to get to Ponferrada and where the Camino de Invierno starts in Ponferrada. Included is a quick comparison of the Camino Frances vs Camino de Invierno with significant spots for pilgrims starting in Ponferrada. Also, find some of the best places to sleep for pilgrims and the best things to do in Ponferrada (whether you’re a pilgrim or not 😉).

This comprehensive pilgrim guide is for those planning to start the Camino de Invierno in Ponferrada, or those looking to divert off the busy Camino Frances in Ponferrada.

Table of Contents

• The Significance of Ponferrada and the Camino de Santiago
• Camino Frances vs Camino de Invierno Route Planning & Stages
• How to Get to Ponferrada Spain
• How Long Should Pilgrims Spend in Ponferrada?
• Places of Interest for Pilgrims in Ponferrada
• Places to Stay in Ponferrada for Pilgrims
• Things to do in Ponferrada Spain
• The Official Start of the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada
• Overview | Ponferrada Pilgrim Guide and the Start of the Camino de Invierno

The Significance of Ponferrada and the Camino de Santiago

Ponferrada has always been an important point of interest on the Camino Frances.

Pilgrims have been walking for centuries to stand at the tomb of St. James which is said to lie under the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela. At the end of the 11th century, while routes to reach Santiago were being formed, Bishop Osmundo ordered the construction of a bridge to be built across the Sil River to assist pilgrims on their journey to Santiago.

The ancient bridge was named Pons Ferrata which translates from Latin to iron bridge. The bridge was said to be reinforced with iron to help with the rising numbers of pilgrims crossing the bridge.

The Knight’s Templar came into possession of the old hilltop fortress at the beginning of the 12th century. The castle was mainly used to help protect medieval pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago. Many of the Knights would ensure the safe passage of the pilgrims across the Iron Bridge and beyond.

During the Middle Ages, people began to settle along the banks of the Sil River, and the town became known as Ponferrada. Today, it is the last major city pilgrims pass through before reaching Santiago de Compostela.

Ponferrada and the Camino de Invierno

While most pilgrims continued along the French Way of Saint James over the Pons Ferrata, other pilgrims walking during the winter months chose to avoid the high mountain passes near O’ Cebreiro. The village of O’ Cebreiro sits at an elevation of around 4,300 ft (a little over 1,300 m). During the winter months, many of the surrounding high mountains were impassible and covered with snow.

This was a challenge for the Medieval pilgrims who had little gear against the harsh mountain elements. O’Cebreiro is the first village that welcomes pilgrims to Galicia where the weather is often rainy, and windy, and can change at a moment’s notice, even during the summer months.

Those pilgrims looking to reach Santiago de Compostela could deviate in Ponferrada at a lower altitude along the Winter Way. The Camino de Invierno follows the Sil River and twists through other scenic river valleys. The Camino de Invierno stays at a relatively lower altitude than the Camino Frances.

However, don’t let that fool you. The Camino de Invierno has lots of ups and downs and does reach 3,905 ft (1,190 m) on Monte Faro.

Many Middle Age pilgrims used the Camino de Invierno out of necessity to arrive at Santiago de Compostela.

Today, the Camino de Invierno is a fabulous alternative route to the Camino Frances to avoid the crowds. Alternatively, the Camino de Invierno can make for an awesome standalone Camino de Santiago route for those pilgrims who have two weeks to walk.

I chose to walk the Camino de Invierno as my first Winter Camino route and it will not be my last! Walking the Camino de Santiago in the winter has become one of my most cherished memories.

Camino Frances vs Camino de Invierno Route Planning

Pilgrims arriving in Ponferrada can continue on the Camino Frances or take the longer deviant route of the Camino de Invierno.

Pilgrims walking the Camino Frances make up well over 50% of the total pilgrims arriving at Santiago de Compostela. Believe it or not, only around 2,000 pilgrims arriving in Santiago de Compostela walk the Camino de Invierno. This is less than .5% of the total pilgrims who collect their Compostela in Santiago.

The Camino Frances is the most popular and trotted Camino de Santiago route. The Way has been walked for hundreds of years and there are many albergues, restaurants, and cafes in charming pilgrim towns. As the way is well-trotted there are also some popular detours on the Camino Frances to avoid the crowds.

The infrastructure on the Camino Frances is convenient for first-time pilgrims, making it one of the most popular Camino de Santiago routes. That said, the Camino Frances is busy, so even during the summer months, pilgrims may find themselves diverting to the Camino de Invierno for a chance to reflect.

It’s worth noting that the Camino de Invierno won’t be for every type of pilgrim. Some of the stages are longer and there are more limited services in certain stages. Those pilgrims who don’t mind carrying more supplies like food and packing a sense of adventure will absolutely love the Camino de Invierno. For what the route lacks in more convenient facilities, it makes up for its untouched paths, stunning beauty, and simple genuineness.

In all honesty, the Camino de Invierno was perfect for me and has become one of my favorite Camino de Santiago routes.

Camino Frances vs Camino de Invierno Stages & Distances

Here are some official statistics comparatively of the Camino Frances and the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada. These stages follow the standard guidebooks.

Camino Frances | Ponferrada ➜ Santiago de Compostela

• If walking the Camino Frances from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, most pilgrims arrive at Ponferrada after 25 walking days
• The distance to Santiago de Compostela from Ponferrada on the French Way is almost 210 Km (130.5 miles)
• Average of 8 – 10 walking days to reach Santiago de Compostela

Camino de Invierno | Ponferrada ➜ Santiago de Compostela

• The Camino de Invierno officially starts in Ponferrada
• The distance to Santiago de Compostela from Ponferrada on the Camino de Invierno is unofficial. The distances range between 260 Km (161.5 miles) and 275 Km (171 miles)
• Average of 10 – 14 walking days to reach Santiago de Compostela

🥾 My Personal Camino Frances vs Camino de Invierno Statistics

• Camino Frances from Ponferrada: 229 Km (142.15 miles) | 9 Days
  • This includes a few detours like the Camino Dragonte and to the Monastery in Samos
• Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada: 323 Km (200.75 miles) | 13 Days
  • This includes detours to Peñalba de Santiago, the high route to Las Medulas, and a visit to Pico Sacro
• Here’s a daily breakdown of my Camino de Invierno stages

How to Get to Ponferrada Spain

Ponferrada is found in the Castile and León autonomous region of Spain. It sits close to the border of Galicia and it is the capital of the sub-region of El Bierzo.

Ponferrada is easily accessible from Santiago de Compostela, Madrid, and other major cities throughout Spain.

There is no airport in Ponferrada, but the city has a main train and bus station. The closest airport to Ponferrada is in León, which is around 2 hours via bus.

Ponferrada Train Station

The main train station in Ponferrada is a short walk from the historical center of Ponferrada. Find the Estación de Tren in Ponferrada here.

Ponferrada is well connected throughout Spain with long-distance and mid-range trains with the Spanish rail company Renfe. Here’s a list of all the destinations Ponferrada Train Station is connected with.

Ponferrada Bus Station

The main Estación de Autobuses in Ponferrada is a little farther from the historical center than the train station. The bus station is around a 20-minute casual stroll to the city center.

Be mindful that the Ponferrada bus station is currently under construction, so services like ticket sales and restrooms are limited within the facilities.

Alsa is the main bus company that provides frequent services to Ponferrada. There are numerous connections with Santiago de Compostela, Leon, Madrid, and almost all major cities in Galicia.

➜ Psst… Coming from the Madrid Airport? There’s a direct bus from Madrid Airport to Ponferrada via Alsa and takes 5 to 6 hours depending on stops.

Ponferrada and the Camino de Santiago

Ponferrada has been a significant city on the Camino de Santiago since the Middle Ages. The city has always been part of the Camino Frances, or the French Way. Those pilgrims walking the Camino Frances will arrive from the east from the village of Molinaseca.

A majority of pilgrims walking the Camino Frances start from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France and continue through historical cities like Pamplona, Logroño of the La Rioja Region, and Burgos where they continue through the famed Meseta to León. After that pilgrims continue to Astorga and into Ponferrada.

Once in Ponferrada, pilgrims can continue on the French Way to Villafranca del Bierzo or divert on the Camino de Invierno towards Las Médulas.

Ponferrada is still not a super common Camino de Santiago starting point.

How Long Should Pilgrims Spend in Ponferrada Spain?

There is quite a lot to see in the historic medieval quarter of Ponferrada. Some pilgrims walking the Camino Frances may pass through the city altogether, while others plan to sleep here.

I like to spend one full day in Ponferrada to visit the Ponferrada Templar Castle, saunter the cobblestone streets of the old town, and visit the quiet chapel of Santo Tomás de las Ollas. Do spend some time near the Sil River (Rio Sil) and stroll the dirt paths near the castle and to the Pons Ferrata bridge.

If starting the Camino de Invierno, I think it’s best to spend at least one night in Ponferrada before walking to get last minute supplies and not feel rushed.

Places of Interest for Pilgrims in Ponferrada

If starting the Camino de Invierno pilgrimage route from Ponferrada, these are important places for pilgrims.

Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flue

Ponferrada has a Municipal Albergue, San Nicolás de Flue. This means that it does not accept reservations and a pilgrim passport is required.

What’s great about this donativo albergue is that they issue the Pilgrim Passport or the Credencial. If starting the Camino de Invierno, stop in at the Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flue and pick one up.

The Credencial is necessary for those pilgrims planning on receiving their “Compostela” in Santiago de Compostela. Simply collect stamps each day in your passport from Albergues, cafes, churches, and sacred sites. The Credencial del Peregrino is a living document of your journey and is truly one of the best Camino souvenirs.

The Municipal Albergue in Ponferrada asks for a €3 donation and you’ll get your first stamp if starting here.

• Albergue Location: Calle Obispo Camilo Lorenzo, Ponferrada, León, Spain
• Municipal Albergue
• Pilgrim Beds: 186 / by Donation
• Open: Year Round, doors open at 13:00
• Pilgrim Credencial Required: Yes

This Albergue has a well-stocked kitchen, offers a nightly pilgrim blessing and mass, and has a small onsite chapel. The volunteers are so wonderful here and can help answer any questions. A huge shout-out to the sweet voluntario who let me into the chapel before the blessing to meditate and light a candle.

The Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flue is not only a great place to sleep in Ponferrada for pilgrims, but it’s also an essential stop to purchase a Credencial. The volunteers are helpful and go out of their way for pilgrims to answer any last-minute questions about the Camino Frances or the Camino de Invierno routes.

➜ Here are some of the most FAQ about the Camino de Santiago

Ponferrada Tourist Information Center

Next to the Templar Castle is the Ponferrada Tourist Information Center. This is a great place to get any last-minute information about the Camino de Invierno route. They also provide hiking routes for those looking to explore the nearby Aquilianos Mountains.

Oficina de Turismo de Ponferrada | Find it here: C. Gil y Carrasco, 4 | Hours: Vary with season, check their Official Website Here

Oficina del Peregrino

There is an official “Oficina del Peregrino” in Ponferrada that is supposedly part of the Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago del Bierzo. However, every time I visit, I have never seen it open. There are no hours posted and it looks quite abandoned.

The Oficina del Peregrino is a small wooden hut located just down the street from the Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flue and sits at the roundabout with the Cruz de Miranda.

Last Minute Supplies & Gear in Ponferrada

No worries if you forgot something or changed your mind about a hat or walking sticks. There are plenty of gear stores near Ponferrada that sell sporting goods, shoes, and other gear for pilgrims.

As a rule of thumb, if walking a Camino you won’t be carrying much. I’ve walked multiple Camino de Santiago routes, and this is my essential Camino packing list for women. This packing list focuses on spring, summer, and fall walking logistics.

I walked the Camino de Invierno during February and this is my actual winter Camino packing list.

Your feet are the most important thing to care for when walking the Camino de Santiago. Have properly broken-in shoes, extra dry socks, and a basic first-aid kit.

➯ Hey… don’t forget your Travel Insurance! I love SafetyWing

Ponferrada Outdoor Gear Stores

✔ Decathlons are outdoor gear stores found throughout Europe and there is one not too far from the train station. Find everything from gear to clothing, and hiking shoes at Decathlons.

✔ Sprinter is a Spanish outdoor gear store that has around 100 stores in Spain. Sprinter sells brand-name outdoor gear including shoes, winter gear, trekking clothes, and more.

Ponferrada Grocery Stores

In Ponferrada find large grocery chains like Gadis, Froiz, and Alimerk outside of the heart of the historic center.

There are plenty of small mom-and-pop shops selling food items, specialty cheeses, meats, and other provisions for picnic lunches. There are local bakeries and pastry shops, too. I found a vending machine that offered meat and cheese platters!

Places to Stay in Ponferrada for Pilgrims

For pilgrims, the most popular place to stay is the municipal donative albergue, Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flue.

As Ponferrada is a city found along the Camino Frances there are quite a few Albergue options, pensions, private rooms, hotels, and apartments.

Budget-Friendly Hostels and Private Rooms in Ponferrada

➜ Albergue Guiana is another popular albergue in Ponferrada that is steps away from the divergent route of the Camino de Invierno. The staff is extremely helpful and knowledgeable about the Camino. This is a highly-rated hostel in Ponferrada and is designed for pilgrims.

➜ Albergue Alda Pilgrim Ponferrada is a brand new albergue that’s part of the popular budget-friendly hotels of Alda. The Albergue has a nice kitchen, and laundry facilities, is super clean, has a helpful staff, and is close to many cafes and restaurants. A huge shout out to the sweet lady at the desk who went above and beyond to ensure I had a room in Peñalba de Santiago.

➜ Albergue El Templarin is another popular albergue found within the historic center

➜ Hostal Rio Selmo is a budget-friendly accommodation with private rooms and steps away from the Camino Frances route

➜ Hostal Nirvana offers private rooms in Ponferrada and is a popular place for those looking to get a good night’s rest before walking the Camino de Santiago. It’s about a half mile from the center of Ponferrada

➜ Browse all the Best Places to Stay in Ponferrada Spain

Best Things to Do in Ponferrada Spain

If you are starting the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada or simply passing through on the Camino Frances, there are many things to do in Ponferrada.

✔ The Templar Castle (Castillo de los Templarios) is arguably one of the most important structures in Ponferrada. Inside the castle are remains of a settlement back to the Iron Ages. While the Castle was under the Order of the Knight’s Templar in the 12th century, they were disbanded by the Pope and Church who began to fear their power and influence in the early 14th century. The Castle went through many hands and eventually, it fell into a state of despair. The Templar Castle in Ponferrada has been restored and houses the impressive Templum Libri, a private collection of religious texts and rare books.

☛ The Templar Castle is 6 Euros to visit, but free on Wednesdays

✔ Pons Ferrada Bridge – visit the old Iron Bridge that gave the city its name. There is a popular viewpoint of the Pons Ferrada bridge (Mirador Puente Cubelos) or stroll along the lovely footpath along the River Sil.

✔ Rio Sil offers trails along both sides of the River. There are benches and parks found along the scenic river. This is a great place to stretch or catch up on journaling.

✔ Torre del Reloj is one of the great entrances to the Old Town with an iconic clock tower. Next door find the interesting Museo del Bierzo with archaeological finds from Roman times and regional history artifacts.

✔ Wander the Medieval Old Town of Ponferrada. There are plenty of little shops, tapas bars, cafes, restaurants, and attractions to see on the cobblestone streets.

✔ Iglesia de Santo Tomás de las Ollas is a fabulous hilltop church located on the outskirts of Ponferrada. The tiny chapel from the 10th century is designed in Mozarabic architecture. There are hints of Romanesque features that were added during the 12th century. This church is connected to the fabulous chapel in Peñalba de Santiago. A kind woman holds the keys to the chapel and welcomes visitors. It’s really special and you can feel the love and pride she takes in being the gatekeeper of this historical church. Tours are only available in Spanish and are by donation.

✔ Don’t miss the most impressive views of Ponferrada from the lookout in Santo Tomás de las Ollas (next to the chapel).

✔ Ponferrada is located in the El Bierzo wine region of Spain. This small region is known for its microclimate which produces excellent wines. Ask for any local wine in any tapas bar to sample it.

The Official Start of the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada

The official starting point of the Camino de Invierno is found just down the road of the Albergue de Peregrinos San Nicolás de Flue and across the roundabout where the wooden hut of the Oficina del Peregrino sits.

Here is the roundabout with the stone cross of Cruz de Miranda.

Psst… If looking for a Camino de Santiago Guidebook, I love all of John Brierley’s detailed books with maps. There is a John Brierley A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Sanabrés & Camino de Invierno although it isn’t as detailed as his Camino Frances or Camino Portuguese books

Those continuing on the Camino Frances will walk north along the Rio Sil.

To head to the official starting point of the Camino de Invierno head southwest toward the Boeza River. There will be official markers for the Camino de Invierno leading pilgrims across the Puente Boeza over the Boeza River.

The Camino de Invierno is well-marked and passes through a few villages. The next major point of interest is Villavieja with the hilltop Castillo de Cornatel.

Highlights of the Camino de Invierno include incredible landscapes like the rolling hills of the Sil River and Ribeira Sacra. The way passes through historical cities like Monforte de Lemos and highlights the diverse beauty of Galicia. From hillside vineyards that follow stunning rivers to sacred mountains, the Camino de Invierno is so special.

Alternative Camino Route from Ponferrada

I had fantastic weather even though I was walking the Camino de Invierno in the winter. I opted to take a high-mountain hiking route from Ponferrada to Peñalba de Santiago.

Peñalba de Santiago is officially listed as one of Spain’s “pueblos mas bonitos de España.” The small village feels like walking back in time with its slate buildings and incredible 10th-century Mozarabic church. The city is blessed to be encompassed by mountains with sacred paths that were used by the monks.

Peñalba de Santiago is worth visiting whether you hike they or take the day trip. The village is the gateway to the Valle del Silencio and the Aquilianos Mountains.

There are limited sleeping options in Peñalba de Santiago, so always verify a place to stay before starting on this alternative route. There is a small albergue in Peñalba de Santiago. It’s also a good opportunity to check in on the trail conditions.

The alternative route from Ponferrada connects the beautiful pueblos of Peñalba de Santiago to this historic 7th-century Monastery in Montes de Valdueza. After a grueling climb in the Aquilianos Mountains, the route rejoins the Camino de Invierno at Villavieja.

This alternative path is extremely challenging and has no official Camino markers. The path from Ponferrada to Villavieja is best suited for those pilgrims who feel comfortable walking in the high mountains and feel comfortable following an offline map.

Do not attempt this challenging route if the weather is bad or the trails are extremely muddy.

The route from Ponferrada to Peñalba de Santiago to Villavieja takes at least 2 days, although I recommend walking it over 3 days. It’s best to stay in the Albergue in Monte de Valdueza to walk it comfortably over 3 days.

I walked this alternative route over 2 days and was exhausted and drained by the time I arrived in Villavieja.

Recommended Daily Route

1. Ponferrada – Peñalba de Santiago
2. Peñalba de Santiago – Montes de Valdueza
3. Monte de Valdueza- Ferradillo – Villavieja

🥾 Ponferrada – Villavieja via Peñalba de Santiago | 49.17 KM (30.55 Miles) | 2 – 3 Days (3 days is more manageable) | Maps: Stage 1 Ponferrada to Peñalba de Santiago / Stage 2 Peñalba to Villavieja via Montes

Overview | The Complete Ponferrada Pilgrim Guide

In short, this is a detailed pilgrim guide to the city of Ponferrada. This complete guide focuses on those pilgrims who plan to start their journey from Ponferrada and walk the worthwhile and completely underrated Camino de Invierno. Additionally, this guide is for pilgrims curious about switching to the Winter Way from the Camino Frances.

This guide focuses on the significance of Ponferrada on both the Camino Frances and the Camino de Invierno, points of interest for pilgrims, and a quick overview of the two route options from Ponferrada. As a bonus, find things to do in Ponferrada and where to sleep.

No matter what route you choose, all roads lead to Santiago de Compostela. Some modern-day pilgrims reach Santiago de Compostela and feel inspired to walk to the sea at the “End of the World” on the Camino Finisterre Muxia. Their journey can end at either the seaside village of Finisterre or Muxía.

No matter what route you choose, I wish for you a Buen Camino!

Did you start the Camino de Invierno in Ponferrada? Was this guide useful? Did you fall in love with the Camino de Invierno as much as I did? Does anything need updating in this pilgrim guide for Ponferrada? Let me know in the comments below!

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