2 Incredible Camino Frances Divergent Route Options (to Avoid the Crowds)
There are many Camino de Santiago routes, but the Camino Frances is by far the most popular with nearly 50% of pilgrims choosing the French Way. Although the route is special, it can maybe be a little crowded for some, especially for those seeking a more solitary journey.
The Camino Frances crosses over the Pyrenees Mountains from France, passes through historical cities, and spans across the Meseta plateau. The final stages welcome pilgrims to Galicia with its stellar green landscape. The Camino de Santiago journey ends for most at the Obradoiro Plaza in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, the alleged burial place of the relics of Saint James.
The journey is life-changing, moving, and healing. The way can be used as a celebration or maybe an intentional pause.
There are two incredible divergent route options off of the Camino Frances for those seeking a quieter path that avoids the crowds.
The first is in León, where pilgrims can choose to walk the Camino de San Salvador to Oviedo. Farther along the Camino Frances in Ponferrada, the Camino de Invierno makes for an incredible alternative ending to the Camino Frances.
Here is a brief overview of the Camino Frances divergent route options.
Table of Contents
- Camino Frances Route Logistics & Statistics
- León and the Camino de San Salvador Alternative Route Option
- Ponferrada and the Camino de Invierno Route
- Conclusion | Camino Frances Divergent Route Options
Quick Logistics of the Camino Frances Route
The official Camino Frances route is a 779 Km (484 miles) journey that starts from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France. This is the second most popular starting point on the Camino Frances, with around 7.5% of pilgrims starting their journey from here.
This pilgrimage takes around 5 weeks to complete. Many people do not have the time to walk the entire route, so they may choose to begin closer to Santiago de Compostela.
To receive the official Compostela, the certificate for completing the Camino de Santiago, pilgrims must walk the last 100 Km of any Camino route. This is documented in the Credencial, or your pilgrim passport. Over the last 100 Km, you must collect two stamps per day. These can be issued by an Albergue, cafe, bar, church, hotel, and other attractions and points of interest.
Many pilgrims begin their journey in Sarria, a town found in Galicia almost 117 Km (73 miles) from Santiago de Compostela. This is the most popular starting point of any Camino route with nearly 31% of pilgrims starting here. This can make the last 100 Km of the Camino Frances feel a little different, particularly for those who walked through the vastness of the Meseta and long before Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.
In the last 100 Km, find more albergues, more groups, larger groups, and guided walks that begin from Sarria. It’s also worth noting that a couple of Camino routes merge into the Camino Frances, including the Camino Primitivo (in Melide) and the Camino Norte (in Arzúa). This also makes the last few legs of the Camino Frances noticeably busier.
For me, I didn’t mind the final stages from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. I was able to avoid the crowds by sleeping off of the main stages. That is one of my best Camino de Santiago tips to steer clear of the crowds. Abstain from sleeping at the ending stages like those in Gronze and paper guidebooks. I will note that I love John Brierley’s guidebooks and find them invaluable, but I tend to bypass sleeping in his listed ending stages.
Some may feel the pull to walk the Camino Frances in its entirety. Even on the Camino Frances, there are plenty of detour paths that few people choose to take. Others may feel called to divert off the Camino Frances to finish the journey more internally and reflectively. Just like in life, the choice is yours.
1 | Leon and the Camino de San Salvador Route
The Camino de San Salvador is a spectacular deviant route through the mountains. This route option is found in the historical city of León and connects with Oviedo, the starting point of the Camino Primitivo.
The official starting point of the Camino de San Salvador is right before the San Marco Convent in León.
This connector route helped pilgrims move between the Camino Frances and the Camino Primitivo to Santiago de Compostela. The Camino de San Salvador is officially marked at around 75 miles (121 KM). The distance can be deceiving as there are lots of ascents and descents across four river valleys.
The Camino de San Salvador is a remote and isolated route. Few pilgrims take the journey through the mountains from León to Oviedo. Those who do will be blown away by the beautiful landscape, picturesque mountain towns, and stunning river valleys. There are many historical sites along the way, from monastery ruins, medieval bridges, and the hilltop Santa Cristina de Lena Pre-Romanesque church.
Most pilgrims walk the Camino de San Salvador over 5 or 6 days. I walked it over six days so that I could stay at the incredible Bendueños Albergue. Be mindful that services along this route are limited. Only a few mountain towns provide grocery stores and tiendas to stock up on supplies. In some villages, you must phone a day in advance to reserve a meal.
Don’t let that deter you, the Camino de San Salvador is one of the most scenic Camino routes. As this route is more challenging than most, it won’t be for everyone.
This divergent route leads to Oviedo, an extremely important in the history of the Camino. Oviedo was the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Asturias and played a significant role in the spread of Christianity.
During medieval times, pilgrims stopped at the Cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo to see the Holy Shroud that was said to cover the face of Jesus after the crucifixion.
The famous saying about the Camino de San Salvador is “Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador visita al criado y olvida al Señor.” It translates to “Whoever goes to Santiago and not to El Salvador visits the servant and forgets the Lord.” As you can see, the way to Oviedo demands importance.
This connector route comes with its own certificate. The Salvadorana Certificate is awarded to pilgrims who walk from León to Oviedo on the Camino de San Salvador. This certificate allows free entry into the incredible San Salvador Cathedral.
From here, pilgrims walk the Camino Primitivo. This is said to be the first Camino de Santiago route walked by King Alfonso II during the 9th century. He followed a similar way from Oviedo to verify the relics found in the meadows near Santiago de Compostela were those of the Apostle St. James.
The Camino Primitivo is also a hilly Camino route with lots of ascents and descents. The Camino Primitivo is around 200 miles (320 Km) and typically takes around 2 weeks to complete. The Primitivo Camino route is a quieter Camino route with less than 5% of pilgrims walking the Camino Primitivo to Santiago de Compostela.
The Camino Primitivo does rejoin the Camino Frances in Melide. This means you’ll be finishing the Camino on the final 60 Km (37 miles) on the Camino Frances.
Camino Frances vs. Camino de San Salvador & Primitivo (León)
This is a quick comparison of the Camino routes from León.
| Camino Route | León to Santiago Average Distance | Duration |
| Camino Frances | 300 Km (186.5 miles) | 2 weeks |
| Camino San Salvador & Primitivo | 443 Km (275 miles) | 3 weeks |
As you can see, the divergent route from León on the Camino de San Salvador with the Primitivo route adds 143 Km (89 miles). This typically results in an additional week of walking than the standard Camino Frances.
2 | Ponferrada and the Camino de Invierno
The Camino de Invierno is a divergent route off of the Camino Frances in the medieval city of Ponferrada. The Camino de Invierno is also known as the Winter Way as it originally was utilized by pilgrims looking to avoid the higher mountains entering Galicia via the French Way.
The Camino de Invierno is around 267 Km (166 miles) and takes anywhere from 10 to 14 days to complete. The distance can be deceiving as there are many ascents and descents along the Sil and Miño Rivers. Some of the stages can also be longer, making this Camino de Santiago a little more challenging. I broke up my Camino de Invierno stages over 13 days, but I added some additional stops, like the enchanting village of Peñalba de Santiago.
Less than .5% of pilgrims arrive to Santiago de Compostela via the Camino de Iniverno!
The Camino de Invierno is a spectacular route that passes by important sights like Las Médulas, the picturesque Ribeira Sacra, and the legendary Pico Sacro. It also crosses all four provinces of the spectacular Galicia region. With its little trekked paths, the Camino de Invierno is a special hidden gem route.
The Camino de Invierno won’t be for every type of pilgrim, which is why fewer pilgrims choose this divergent route off the Camino Frances. There are fewer services and facilities on the Camino de Invierno than the more popular Camino de Santiago routes. This can result in some longer days carrying extra food and snacks. However, this route is gaining popularity and more albergues and services are springing up to help alleviate the longer stages.
The final stages of the Camino de Invierno merge with the Camino Sanabrés, but this is also not a very popular Camino route. These routes meet in Santiago de Compostela from the southeast, making the ending of this way relatively tranquil.
In my humble opinion, I think the Camino de Invierno is one of the most incredible Camino routes that blesses pilgrims with a peaceful ending to the journey. It is one of the least busy Camino routes, making it an ideal option for those seeking a reflective and internal journey.
Camino Frances vs. Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada
This is a quick comparison of the two very different Camino routes from Ponferrada.
| Camino Route | Ponferrada to Santiago Average Distance | Duration |
| Camino Frances | 210 Km (130.5 miles) | 8 – 10 Days |
| Camino de Invierno | 267 Km (166 miles) | 10 – 14 Days |
As you can see, the divergent route on the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada only adds around 57 Km (35 miles). This alternative route only adds a few days depending on how you break up the Camino de Invierno stages.
Conclusion | The Two Main Camino Frances Divergent Route Options
In short, these are two Camino Frances divergent route options that see fewer pilgrims than the French Way. No matter what path or way you choose, they all lead to the energetic city of Santiago de Compostela.
The Camino de San Salvador is an option for pilgrims arriving in León. This alternative route links the Camino Frances in León to the Camino Primitivo in Oviedo of the Asturias region. To reach Santiago de Compostela, follow the “Original Camino” route into Santiago de Compostela.
About 100 Km from León is the next divergent route option in Ponferrada.
In Ponferrada, pilgrims can choose to divert onto the Camino de Invierno or the Winter Way. This quiet route avoids the high mountains near O’Cebreiro and the busier last 100 Km on the Camino Frances.
I have walked the Camino de San Salvador and the Winter Way and think both routes are special and unique in their own ways.
No matter which route you choose, I wish for you a Buen Camino. If you feel called to walk farther once in Santiago de Compostela, the Camino Finisterre Muxia is a tranquil way that leads to the shores of the Death Coast and wild Atlantic coastline.
Did you take any of these Camino Frances divergent route options? What did you think and were you happy with the decision? Let me know in the comments below!
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