My Camino de Invierno Stages with Distances, Tips, and Why it’s Such a Special Camino Route

The Camino de Invierno is a divergent route off of the popular and sometimes crowded Camino Frances. This Camino de Santiago route is an optional path in the medieval city of Ponferrada in the Leòn region of Spain. The Camino de Invierno stages typically span over 10 -12 legs, so this way can also be walked as a spectacular standalone Camino route.

The Camino de Invierno originated as a lower altitude way to reach Santiago de Compostela. Medieval pilgrims would use the route during the winter months to avoid the high mountains near O’Cebreiro that ran the risk of being covered in snow. This is why the Camino de Invierno is also known as the Winter Way.

The Winter Way is not for every pilgrim. The route is not as busy as other Camino routes, making it quieter and more reflective. Some of the Camino de Invierno stages can be longer with fewer services (albergues and cafes), deterring some pilgrims. However, the secret is out about how special the Winter Way is, and with rising interest, comes an increase in facilities.

There are numerous resources from guidebooks to online apps that highlight the Camino de Invierno stages.

This is a brief overview of my day-to-day experiences on the Camino de Invierno. Find my daily highlights, distances, and tips on where to sleep. I’ve also included some of my favorite detours on the Camino de Invierno.

Here’s a comprehensive overview of my personal Camino de Invierno stages.

Table of Contents

• General Overview of the Camino de Invierno Stages
• My Camino de Invierno Stages & Distances | Daily Itinerary
• Arrival into Santiago de Compostela via the Camino de Invierno
• Conclusion | My Camino de Invierno Stages & Route Options

General Overview of the Camino de Invierno Stages

The Camino de Invierno has many special highlights. Some of the most memorable attractions along this Camino route include the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Las Médulas, villages built alongside river valleys, historical cities, and incredible landscapes.

The Winter Way passes through underrated wine regions and highlights the beauty of Galicia. The Camino de Invierno is the only Camino route to pass through all four provinces that make up the underrated Galicia region in Spain.

The Camino de Invierno is an alternative option from the Camino Frances in Ponferrada. Pilgrims who started the Camino Frances from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or elsewhere may look to avoid the larger crowds that spring up in the final 100 Km of the French Way from Sarria to Santiago.

Although it is called the Winter Way, the Camino de Invierno can be walked at any time of the year. I did walk this Camino route during the winter (off-season) and fell in love with it.

Few pilgrims walk the Winter Way. Less than .5% of the total pilgrims who collect their Compostela in Santiago complete the Camino de Invierno.

The Camino de Invierno is a different kind of Camino route. There are fewer services and facilities on the Camino de Invierno than on other Camino de Santiago routes, making some of the stages longer. As the route is gaining popularity, more albergues are opening to help alleviate longer stages.

Seasoned or curious pilgrims may find themselves starting the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada. The medieval city of Ponferrada is the official starting point of the Camino de Invierno.

• The distance to Santiago de Compostela from Ponferrada on the French Way is almost 210 Km (130.5 miles) and takes between 8 – 10 days
• The distance to Santiago de Compostela from Ponferrada on the Camino de Invierno is unofficial but ranges between 260 Km (161.5 miles) and 274 Km (170 miles) and can take anywhere between 10 – 14 days

Depending on what guidebook or resource you use, the Camino de Invierno stages are considered to be as follows. Do note that Gronze, Correos, and John Brierley all have different Camino de Invierno stages.

Stages	Camino de Invierno
1	Ponferrada ➜ Las Médulas
2	Las Médulas ➜ O Barco de Valdeorras
3	O Barco de Valdeorras ➜ A Rúa
4	A Rúa ➜ Quiroga
5	Quiroga ➜ Monforte de Lemos
6	Monforte de Lemos ➜ Chantada
7	Chantada ➜ Rodeiro * Last 100 KM
8	Rodeiro ➜ A Laxe *Camino de Invierno joins the Camino Sanabrés
9	A Laxe ➜ Outeiro
10	Outerio ➜ Santiago de Compostela

This Ponferrada to Santiago Camino de Invierno guide includes useful tips, planning resources, budget, and why the Camino de Invierno is one of the most memorable Camino routes I’ve had the pleasure to walk. If this is your first Camino de Santiago route, these general Camino tips may come in handy.

My Personal Camino de Invierno Stages & Daily Itinerary

This is simply an outline and overview of my personal Camino de Invierno stages and daily itinerary. Like all Camino routes, choose what route and stages work best for you by listening to your body.

The Camino de Santiago is all about the journey and not the destination.

Depending on which route you choose, the Camino de Invierno will typically take around 2 weeks to complete. I walked the Camino de Invierno during the winter months casually over 13 days. I spent a night in Ponferrada before starting the Camino de Invierno.

My Camino de Santiago distance walked was 323 Km (200.75 miles). This was due to my detour to Peñalba de Santiago from Ponferrada (without the detour my Camino de Invierno distance is 274 Km / 170 miles)

Jump to Stage	Camino de Invierno Daily Itinerary	Notes
1	Ponferrada ➜ Villavieja	Alternative High Mountain Trek (First 2 Days)
2	Villavieja ➜ Puente de Domingo Flores	via Mirador de Orellán
3	Puente de Domingo Flores ➜ Vilamartín
4	Vilamartín ➜ Quiroga
5	Quiroga ➜ A Pobra do Brollón
6	A Pobra do Brollón ➜ Monforte de Lemos
7	Monforte de Lemos ➜ Chantada
8	Chantada ➜ Rodeiro
9	Rodeiro ➜ A Laxe
10	A Laxe ➜ Dornelas (Casa Leiras)
11	Dornelas (Casa Leiras) ➜ Outeiro	Climbed Pico Sacro *Try to sleep farther in Deseiro (Reina Lupa)
12	Outeiro ➜ Santiago de Compostela	Santiago de Compostela Pilgrim Guide

Day 1 | Ponferrada – Villavieja

• 17 Km / 10.5 Miles | + / – 5 Hours
• Accommodation: Municipal Albergue de Vilavieja “Manuel Fuentes” | 16 beds / €10 bed
  • Contact: Mon – Fri from 9:00 – 14:00 (+34 987 420 806) / Evening, Weekends, Festivals 11:00 – 20:00 +(34 606 898 140)

From Ponferrada, the official divergent route for the Camino de Invierno is found at the roundabout across from the wooden Oficina del Peregrino and steps away from Albergue Guiana. This junction is marked with the stone cross of Cruz de Miranda.

If walking the Winter Way you will miss the famous Knight’s Templar Castle and the ancient bridge of Pons Ferra, which is why it’s best to spend at least one night in Ponferrada soaking up the atmospheric city.

Near the roundabout, you’ll see the first Camino de Santiago de Invierno marker. (Notice how there is no official distance 🙂). The markers lead pilgrims over the Boeza Rive via the Puente Boeza.

While some continue along the Way to Las Médulas, the stage feels quite long for the first day (over 28 km / 17.5 miles). Sleeping in Villavieja helps break up the longer first stage of the Camino de Invierno.

Be mindful that there are no services or restaurants in Villavieja, so you’ll need to carry dinner and breakfast if sleeping here.

The forest path leads to Toral de Merayo and crosses over the medieval bridge.

The route continues through the small villages of Villalibre de la Jurisdicción, Priaranza del Bierzo, and Santalla del Bierzo. There are a few cafe options available in these villages. After Santalla del Bierzo village, the ascent to Villavieja begins.

If arriving early enough, drop your bags at Villavieja. Make sure to contact the Albergue before arriving at Villavija, as there is an access code to enter. The cell service is also extremely spotty in the town, but I was fortunate for a local to go out of their way to help me with phone service.

The Albergue sits off the way at the hilltop. This basic albergue is found in a converted schoolhouse and has a well-stocked kitchen and common area with bunk beds and restrooms on the top floor. During the winter, there were small heaters available next to the bed and warm blankets.

Drop off your bag and return to the pathway to continue past the fountain of Saint James. The way is marked through a forest and provides lovely views of the village and the Cornatel Castle. This is another castle that has ties to the Knight’s Templar. The views from inside offer some of the best panoramic views of the mountains and valley.

Unfortunately, I arrived in Villavieja on a day the castle was closed, so I didn’t get to visit.

Castillo de Cornatel | Hours: Wed-Sun 11:30 – 18:30 | Admission: €3

Alternative Route to Villavieja from Ponferrada

I did not complete the typical first day of Ponferrada to Villavieja as I took a challenging high mountain route to Peñalba de Santiago. I do not recommend this challenging route for most pilgrims as it’s unmarked and with no services. This detour is quite intrepid and is best suited for experienced hikers.

However, visiting Peńalba de Santiago is a fantastic way to spend an afternoon even if you don’t hike here. Day trips from Ponferrada can be arranged, or pick up a car and see the highlights of the region slowly over a few days.

If looking to hike this alternative route, make sure to add at least one extra day to the Camino de Invierno stages. I walked it over 2 days, but highly suggest slowing down and walking it over 3 days.

This detour route meets the Camino de Invierno in Villavieja.

Recommended Route

Daily Stages	Distance	Duration	Map Overviews
Ponferrada ➜ Peñalba de Santiago	20.5 Km (12.75 miles)	5+ Hours	Stage 1
Peñalba de Santiago ➜ Montes de Valdueza	8.5 Km (5.25 miles)	3+ Hours	Stage 2 (best walked over 2 days)
Montes de Valdueza ➜ Villavieja via Ferradillo	20 Km (12.5 miles)	5+ Hours

Day 2 | Villavieja – Puente de Domingo Flores via Mirador de Orellán

• 23. 5 Km / 14.6 Miles (+ Exploring Las Médulas) | + / – 8 Hours
• Accommodation: Casa Rosa in Puente de Domingo Flores | 8 Beds/ € Donativo
  • Casa Rosa is quick to respond on WhatsApp +34 648 417 406

An early morning departure from Villavieja provides incredible views of Cornatel Castle and the surrounding valley. It also provides ample time to explore the treasures of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Las Médulas.

Follow along past the Cornatel Castle to the village of Borrenes. From here, most pilgrims continue on the Winter Way to Las Médulas. I opted to take the backroad path to the Mirador de Orellán from Borrenes.

The trail is mostly unmarked, but there is a signboard that points in the direction of Orellán next to the official Winter Way marker in Borrenes.

The trail leads towards the Castro of Borrenes, but you’ll need to merge left (no trail marker). I saw a man tending to some grapes farther on who confirmed I was on the right path.

The village of La Chana will be off quite a distance to your left, but you won’t enter the hamlet. Instead, follow the grass path to the paved main road (LE-6221). There is a dirt path that turns into a more narrow path through the forest. There are wooden markets along the path indicating small points of interest (caves, etc) and some yellow arrows.

The scenic path is a steeper uphill and crosses a small river. Look for some yellow arrows along the pathway.

Follow the trail up to the village of Orellán, past the church, and to the small Tourist Information Center. There is an official trail marker in the direction of Las Médulas. It’s a stunning path to arrive at the ancient Roman Gold Mines at the Mirador de Orellán.

Las Médulas

Do take the time to visit this incredible and historic site. These mountains are what is left behind from an ancient gold mining technique called ruina montium, which literally translates to ruin mountain. The gold was mined using hydraulic channels that were carved into the mountainside.

It’s been said that nearly 1,635,000 kilos of gold were extracted until the mines were finally abandoned in the early 3rd century.

It’s free to wander through Las Médulas and the surrounding hiking trails. For me, while beautiful, this site stirred up quite a bit of emotion. The exposed orange mountainsides are only visible today due to humans interfering with the land to extract precious metals.

While the Romans claimed no one was enslaved to work here, locals were forced to work a certain number of days to pay their tax debt.

To visit the interior of the gold mines and caves, you must join a guided tour. Additionally, near the Mirador de Orellán is a chance to walk through old mining channels (€ 3).

Take the Mirador trail down through the chestnut forests and continue to the Las Médulas Visitor Center. They can verify current tour schedules and they offer a small, but free exhibition and video.

Guided Tours for Las Médulas | Inquire here: Las Médulas Visitor Reception Center | Duration: 2 hours | Admission: €5 | Schedules change by season, but typically morning and afternoon start times | Contact: medulas@ccbierzo.com

Las Médulas has a few cafes and restaurants. I tried to visit the Aula Arqueológica de las Médulas (Museum), but are permanently closed and the visitor center was unsure if they would ever open again.

There are also numerous places to sleep, including Albergue La Senda. During the summer and weekends, Las Médulas explodes with tourism, so some private accommodation options may require a two-night stay and the rates rise.

Las Médulas – Puente de Domingo Florez

I was able to explore Las Medulas in a few hours and then continue towards Puente de Domingo Florez. If you have the energy, don’t miss the final viewpoint, Mirador de Las Pedrices. It’s a short uphill climb (out and back trail), but one of the very best of Las Médulas and the village below.

You can also see some of the long-term effects of the mining which helped form the Carucedo Lake and old water channels carved into the mountainside.

Take the same path down to rejoin the Camino de Invierno. The official way marker indicates 5.7 Km to Puente de Domingo Florez. The gravel trail is scenic and is a steady descent into Puente de Domingo Flórez.

One of the highlights of the Camino de Invierno is staying at Casa Rosa, a fantastic donativo albergue found in the heart of Puente de Domingo Flórez.

Fellow pilgrims run this warm space and offer a special space in their house. The small details do not go unnoticed and the breakfast (also donativo) is made with love. There is no kitchen but a supermarket and plenty of cafes and restaurants in town.

Remember, a donativo albergue is not free, but rather it is expected that you will leave a donation for your stay and services received. I tend to calculate higher than the standard of what I would typically pay for a room, meal, or whatever is being offered.

From the extremely clean rooms, small details, snacks, beverages, and breakfast, Casa Rosa is a must-stay albergue on the Camino de Invierno.

Day 3 | Puente de Domingo Flores – Vilamartín de Valdeorras

• 27.4 Km / 17 Miles | + / – 7.5 Hours
• Accommodation: Municipal Albergue Vilamartin | 44 Beds / € 8
  • Current Contact: +34 679 846 879 (WhatsApp)

It’s another spectacular day on the Camino de Invierno. Leave Puente de Domingo Flórez and cross the Rio Sil to be welcomed into Quereño Galicia of the Ourense province. There are incredible views of the Sil River, especially from Mirador de Rio.

This area is known for its slate, so expect to see many of the Camino de Invierno markers made from the distinctive black rock.

Pumares is the next small village, so don’t miss the outdoor stand they have set up to stamp your credencial.

After that, the pathway passes by the Nogueiras ruins. The ruins now contain a statue of Mary and offers a place to rest and reflect.

Follow the trail with lovely views of Sobradelo and the River Sil. The road leads to the village with the popular Bar Mar with albergue (owner Manuel also offers bag transport).

Follow the road from Sobradelo to Éntoma, a cute town with a church and Roman bridge.

The Camino de Invierno continues by a steep ascent through a forest and open vineyards. There is a bench and nice views of both Éntoma and onwards to the destination of O Barco.

Follow the arrows to the outskirts of O Barco de Valdeorra to the Bodega Cooperativa Jesús Nazareno. There are some nice little cafes with outdoor seating here or continue to Rúa San Roque. The way continues through the historical section of town and opens up at the Paseo do Malecón riverside promenade.

O Barco de Valdeorra is a popular place to sleep, but there is no albergue in the heart of the town (the closest is Albergue Xagoaza). There are many private hotel options in O Barco. With its numerous cafes and restaurants lining the beautiful River Sil, O Barco is an official stage ending point for the Camino de Invierno. Find numerous swimming spots in O Barco along the riverside.

For me, I crossed over the Rio Sil via the Pasarela do Malecón. This is an alternative route to Vilamartín de Valdeorras. This mostly dirt footpath continues to the Pazo De Arnado. Although it’s not possible to visit the old palace, you get to walk right through its gateway.

The Camino de Invierno continues through the village and along the famous vineyards growing Godello grapes.

Cross over the Sil River through the back trail. There are plenty of great views of the river. The Municipal Albergue of Vilamartín is not within the town but rather steps away from the Sil River next to the municipal pool.

The Albergue is about a 10-minute walk to the center of Vilamartín. The Albergue is simple but has a well-stocked kitchen and free laundry services. There are no other accommodation options here.

The village is home to a few cafes and a small grocery store.

The town is famous for its wine, which is part of the very small wine region of D.O. Valdeorras and the Ruta das Covas. There are hundreds of small caves used in local wine production. The Covas are found underground but are most recognizable by their chimneys, which were vital for ventilation. Many of the traditional vineyards can be found on the village hilltops.

Day 4 | Vilamartín de Valdeorras – Quiroga

• 33.2 Km / 20.6 Miles | + / – 8 Hours
• Accommodation: Municipal Albergue Quiroga | Beds 150 / € 12
  • Current Contact on WhatsApp: +34 662 103 650

Today is one of the longest Camino de Invierno stages, but it’s also one of the most beautiful. There is a brand new albergue (March 2024) in the village of A Rua could make this stage a little shorter, but would make the previous day longer.

The Camino route follows parallel to the River Sil. There is a new trail split near the hydroelectric station at San Miguel do Outeiro that is marked. A car stopped while I was walking and told me the trail to the right was better, so I followed under the overpass to join the high route.

The trail cuts through a forest with great views of the River Valley and continues into A Rua.

A Rúa has a new albergue and a few other sleeping options. You’ll have to divert off the main route towards the river to head to town if you need food or last-minute supplies. There is nothing in terms of cafes or shops until Quiroga.

However, on today’s stage, you’ll find plenty of kindness and little surprises along the way.

I stayed on the high route through the upper part of the A Rua as I had stocked up on food in Villamartin.

The Church of Nosa Señora de Fátima de A Rúa leads pilgrims up a steeper climb. This is followed by a long section following the LU-933 road. The first 2 km are past industrial buildings and can be busy, so be extra alert with the traffic.

Once past the distribution center, the road is much more quiet. While it does follow the road, there is space to walk next to it rather than on it.

There are lots of fun art signs on the trees to help keep pilgrims motivated on this long road section.

The roads lead to the delightful village of Albaredos. The small village prides itself on being the first village of the incredible Ribeira Sacra, or Sacred River. This stunning region is home to vineyards, canyons, ancient monasteries, and so much more. It’s one of Galicia’s greatest treasures.

Albaredos is decorated with colorful artwork and has a wonderful self-service pilgrim station. This is such a treat as there are no services along this Camino de Invierno stage. This small stand offers fresh fruit, a coffee maker, and even chargers for electronic devices. Collect a stamp and leave a donation, this is just one reason why the Camino de Invierno is so special.

Albaredos also welcomes pilgrims to the Lugo province of Galicia.

Follow the trail out of town towards Montefurado. It’s a downhill stint, but I found another donation stand of fresh fruit provided by Casi Miro Montefurado.

There’s another gradual climb up to Montefurado. The Church of San Miguel de Montefurado stands iconically at the foot of the village. While there are no services and the village is fairly abandoned, Montefurado is a spectacular village and has a nice little plaza.

Follow the trail out of Montefurado to have breathtaking views of River Sil, it’s still a climb up, but the views are so worth it. The path is a mixture of local roads and forest paths until arrival at a small chapel and old mills of Bendilló.

Bendillo is a hilltop town with a church and a working water fountain. After Bendillo it’s a downhill scenic ascent to the riverside village of Soldón. There is a huge highway overpass but pilgrims pass over the Rio Soldon via a small foot bridge. This leads to a small road stretch, but follow the arrows to Novais with its castle ruins.

Follow the peaceful path across an old bridge with spectacular views of the castle. The trail arrives at the village of Quiroga.

Quiroga is a fantastic little village with lots of cafes, restaurants, and places to sleep the most popular being Hostal Quiper.

The Municipal Albergue is connected with a sports center and has everything you need. Be mindful that the Albergue only has a microwave, so best to eat out and sample the regional cuisine and try the local wine.

Walking into town, don’t miss the Matrioshka tapas bar. In Quiroga, I loved A Botica which is housed in an old pharmacy and has an awesome outdoor patio church side. Quiroga has plenty of supermarkets, too.

Quiroga is decorated with lots of art murals and is really pilgrim-friendly.

Day 5 | Quiroga – A Pobra do Brollón

• 24.9 Km / 15.45 Miles | + / – 5.5 Hours
• Accommodation: Albergue Municipal A Pobra do Brollón | Beds 36 / € 13.75

The stage of the Camino de Invierno is long between Quiroga and Monforte de Lemos. The best way to break it up is by sleeping in A Pobra do Brollón.

The way leaves Quiroga and over the Rio Sil to the small village of San Clodio with cafes and a hotel. Twist through the town to cross the Sil River again via the Puente de Hierro. Alternatively, you could just follow the road out of Quiroga to pick up the way near the bridge.

Follow the road past and above Nocedo on the LU-933. Stay on the road over a mile or so and keep your eyes peeled for the way marker to turn right on a footpath.

This footpath continues its climb up to the Chapel of Dos Remedios. Be mindful that while the area has some forest sections it is fairly exposed for the majority of this stretch.

The Dos Remedios chapel is closed but there is a small journal and pen to leave thoughts and notes.

After the chapel, start the downhill descent to O Carbalo de Lor. There’s a great fountain just a short detour off the Camino.

The gradual downhill continues to Barxa de Lor with a medieval bridge allowing passage over the Lor River. There is evidence of the old water mills along the river. There is a Camino de Invierno signboard showing us what to expect on the stretch into A Pobra do Brollón. The path is a mixture of local roads and gravel paths.

If looking to stay in A Pobra do Brollón at the cozy Municipal Albergue, don’t continue through the town. Rather, look for the roundabout and follow the LU-653 to the sports pavilion that houses the Alberuge on the second floor. Sandra is so kind and the Albergue includes sheets and clean towels. There is a well-stocked kitchen and you get coffee or tea in the morning.

This Albergue is an excellent place to stay in A Pobra do Brollón.

The village itself offers plenty of places to eat with pilgrim menus.

Day 6 | A Pobra do Brollón – Monforte de Lemos

• 12.9 Km / 8 Miles | + / – 3 Hours
• Accommodation: Albergue Lemavo | Beds 16 /€ 14.50 option for breakfast / private rooms available
  • Contact: +34 661 402 977 / website

Again, sleeping in A Pobra do Brollón helps make the next stage to Monforte de Lemos a lot shorter. There are lots of things to do in Monforte de Lemos, so it’s ideal to arrive early to explore this historical city of Galicia.

This is a fairly easy Camino de Invierno stage, with few miles or inclines.

Leave A Pobra do Brollón on a dirt path and follow along a small river. I did opt to take a short detour to the Castro de San Lourenzo, but you can see it is in the works of being restored. With the increasing number of pilgrims on the Camino de Invierno, I hope sacred sites like this will be given more attention.

Continue through the small village of A Zapateira and Rairos, with the latter offering a stamp by Cereixa Nocamino found in a stone wall.

After Rairos, a gravel path twists through a forest with a gradual climb and equally gradual descent into Reigada.

The Camino leads to Monforte de Lemos with many lodging options near the station. I slept at Albergue Lemavo which has a great kitchen, clean rooms, and welcoming hosts who love pilgrims and want to show them the best of their city. Beds include sheets and towels. There is an option to add breakfast at Albergue Lemavo in the morning.

More Places to Stay in Monforte de Lemos for Pilgrims

• Albergue Santiago 15 Monforte
• Hostal Medievo
• MON – Come y Sueña
• Hotel Ribeira Sacra
• All the Best Places to Stay in Monforte de Lemos

A Quick Overview of What to See in Monforte de Lemos

Monforte de Lemos has enough things to do to keep visitors (or pilgrims) busy for a full day. If you arrive early enough you can explore the main attractions in this medieval city.

There is a lot of history in the region. It starts with a pre-Roman civilization that named the region Lemavos,  which can translate to the “inhabitants of the fertile Earth.” The Romans also conquered the area with their expansion into the region on the hunt for gold.

The city has influences from the invasion of Muslims in the 8th century, the latter settlement of a Benedictine community, and the presence of a Jewish community.

Highlights of the medieval city include the hilltop Monuments of San Vicente del Pino with its castle tower and Pazo Conda. This was the private residence of the famous Counts of Lemos. The Monastery of San Vicente do Pino located on site is now a popular Parador hotel. There are lots of footpaths around the hilltop complex which offers incredible views of Monforte de Lemos and the Cabe River.

There are old city gates that lead to the castle. Don’t miss a wander through the streets of Rúa Zapaterías and Rúa Pescaderías in the Old Jewish Quarter.

Praza de España opens to the pedestrian-friendly street of Rúa Doutor Teijeiro with plenty of cafes and restaurants.

The Tourist Information Center is also home to the Wine Center of the Ribeira Sacra. Visit the informative museum that includes a tasting of this up-and-coming wine region in Spain.

Just down the road find the helpful Pilgrim Information Center that can provide credencials and other useful information for those starting their journey from Monforte de Lemos. Pilgrims already along the way can stop in for a stamp.

The old medieval bridge crosses the Rio Cabe. With some extra time, take the lovely riverside stroll lined with benches to watch the playful ducks.

The Museo de Arte Sacro de las Madres Clarisas contains some of the most important religious art collections in Spain (but in all honesty, I was more impressed by the Sigüenza Cathedral’s collection). The museum is connected with the Convento das Clarisas de Monforte.

Head towards the Parque Plaza Compañia which is home to the impressive Colegio Nuestra Señora de la Antigua, but this building is oftentimes referred to as the Escorial of Galicia. It’s blessed with a great open plaza and a nearby park.

The Escorial of Galicia can be toured and has important artwork including some pieces by El Greco and a noteable staircase.

Day 7 | Monforte de Lemos – Chantada

• 34.4 Km / 21.35 Miles | + / – 8 Hours
• Accommodation: A Pousa Do Asma | 18 Beds / € 18 (off-season)

This is another long and beautiful day on the Camino de Invierno. To break up one of the longer Camino de Invierno stages, sleep in Diomondi. The historical church now houses a Municipal Albergue.

To leave Monforte de Lemos, cross over the Ponte Vella, the old bridge. Go past the Convent of Clarisas de Monforte and take the right turn that will take you past the city hall (Praza Campo de San Antonio). I mention this because I missed the turn early in the morning!

It’s a gradual climb the entire day up to Cerdeiro (before Diomondi).

I followed the way alongside the road as it was raining heavily in the morning. The way passes by the church of San Cibrao de A Vide and continues through the village of Os Campos. It’s a short way to the Iglesia de San Salvador de Moreda in Regueiro.

Take the road out of Regueiro and pass by a few more tiny hamlets. You’ll notice the palace, Pazo de Reguengo, which is a private residence. There has been some rerouting it seems, but I followed the road and arrows to the tiny hamlet of San Lourenzo the stage merges into a woodland path. This route is fabulous and continues to Castrotañe.

Don’t continue all the way through the tiny pueblo of Castrotañe, but look for the trail marker for the right. It was hard for me to see because there was a car parked in front of it!

Old stone walls surround this forest path and lead to Pinheiro with’s iconic fountain. This is a great place to take a break, stock up on water, and enjoy the distant views of Monforte de Lemos. There’s a bench, with a worn-looking pilgrim. ☺️

The way again leads through mud paths. There had been a lot of rain and I found myself using stones to help me keep my feet dry and from being engulfed by mud. No complaints though, as I found this trail section so beautiful.

Join the road at O Camiño Grande. The way stays on the road and farther up are chances to detour to the viewpoint of the Rio Miñho and stop at the Museum of Arxeriz with Castros included. I arrived mid-day so continued on the road to Fontela to Diomondi. If planning to visit the museum and viewpoints (there are two) it’s best to stay at the Diomoni Albergue so as not to rush the next stage.

The next small hamlet is Cerdeiro where the way continues to Montecelo. From here you can stop at Diomondi Albergue (cross the road) or continue left to head to Belesar to cross the Miño River.

Municipal Albergue Diomondi

🥾 Monforte de Lemos to Diomondi Municipal Albergue | Distance: 26.5 Km / 16.5 miles | Duration: +/ – 6 Hours

I had originally planned to stay at the Diomondi Xunta Albergue.

I had made arrangements and brought prepared food. Unfortunately, when I arrived it was locked and I had no SIMCard to phone the hospitalero. There is a phone number and internet access, but you must have a Spanish Simcard as the password for the Wi-Fi is sent via text message.

• Current Contact: +34 667 856 136 / WhatsApp

I waited for a bit, but a huge storm was off in the distance, so I decided to keep walking to try to avoid it.

There are no facilities near Diomondi. As this is a Xunta Albergue, there is a kitchen, but no cookware. Since Covid, the Xunta Albergues removed all their cookware and utensils, which is frustrating because they have such nice kitchens. There is a microwave, so you must carry prepared or microwavable food.

Again, I walked in the winter, so I understand why they don’t keep staff onsite during opening hours. This may be different during the summer or as the route gains popularity.

Municipal Albergue Diomondi to Chantada

They say everything happens for a reason and as I continued to Belesar, I was blown away by this section of the Camino de Invierno.

The path continues through A Portela and then is a fantastic forest trail with a noticeably decent. The first views of Belesar and the Minho River took my breath away as the clouds parted and the sun shined through to the village.

There are stone wine terraces that line the river valley.

Cross over the bridge to continue to the other side of the river valley.

You’ll start the climb up all while passing by vineyards and wineries of the Riberia Sacra. Don’t miss the right turn down to cross the river with a small abandoned mill.

Climb up via a road that turns into a path. The trail passes next to farmland and leads to the Church of San Pedro de Lincora. Follow the road into Chantada.

Chantada is a delightful village with lots of tapas and bars serving up the local wine of the Ribera Sacra. Find grocery stores, laundry, sports shops, and pharmacies. The Praza de España is an ideal place to start wandering with the local Tourist Information Center.

I loved my stay at Albergue A Pousa do Asma which was well-equipped for pilgrims with a kitchen and laundry. Bonus, there was tons of newspaper for me to stuff my shoes with and dry out the insides for the next day!

This village is a popular Camino de Invierno ending stage, so there are lots of accommodation options in Chantada.

Day 8 | Chantada – Rodeiro

• 27.4 Km / 17 Miles | + / – 7 Hours
• Accommodation: Albergue Carpinteiras | 28 Beds / € 13

The Camino de Invierno reaches its highest point (3,905 ft / 1,190 m) at Monte Faro between Chantada and Rodeiro. There are limited services, but I lucked out with both the cafes in Penasillás (before Monte Faro) and the cafe in A Feira, a few kilometers before O Rodeiro.

Leave Chantada, there will be a gradual climb all day until Penasillas, when the path starts getting steeper.

Somewhere before Penasillas, near Boán village, look for the 100 Km Camino de Invierno marker. I snagged a photo at 99.2, but couldn’t find the official 100 Km marker.

Penasillás has a small chapel surrounded by grass. The A Taberna Do Peto in Penasillás was open, but if not, there is a small fountain signposted behind the back. There is an alternative asphalt path from here if the weather is terrible. I started out in fog, but was blessed with clear skies down.

The route up Monte Faro is spectacular and offers incredible views. Follow the official trail markers, which states it’s 5.1 Km to Ermida do Faro.

The way is well-marked along Monte Faro. There is a mixture of roads and paths with are some places to rest along the way. There were two rest areas with fountains.

To reach the chapel of Faro, you’ll have to walk up the grass hillside that is lined with crosses. I had pretty bad visibility at the top so I didn’t continue up to the observation deck. I did wander over to the stone cross of Adam and Eve. I took the grassy hillside back down to rejoin the Camino route.

After this, the way twists casually down Monte Faro. There are spectacular views and many windmills.

Somewhere at the descent, we cross into Pontevedra province of Galicia.

The path continues past the hamlets of Vilanova, Santa Xoan de Camba, La Ermita, and into A Feira. I stopped in at the cozy Bar O Recanto before following the way into Rodeiro.

Carpinteiras is a solid albergue on the hillside of Rodeiro. There are shared and private rooms. Onsite find a small and nice kitchen with all the essentials including laundry facilities. Connected next door is a cafe.

Day 9 | Rodeiro – A Laxe

• 29 Km / 18 Miles | + / – 7 Hours
• Accommodation: Municipal Albergue A Laxe | Beds 30 / € 10
  • Contact: +34 638 962 808 (Even in the winter this albergue had a volunteer inside during the posted open hours)

Go through town and pick up the Camino de Invierno after the roundabout to the Town Hall of Rodeiro. The way follows the road out through an industrial section. Once out of town, notice the large Cogal factory to the left. Turn right to follow the road that turns into the path.

This next section is past a lot of farmland and small rivers with the small hamlets of Penerbosa and A Penela. Be mindful that the water may be high at some of the bridge sections. I had no trouble in February.

A Eirexe has a fabulous small chapel with a fountain.

Across from the fountain check to see if the door is open at the house across the street. A local family has opened up a small rest area with snacks and drinks for purchase. This is awesome because there are no facilities until Lalín. Look for their stamp, too! I only caught myself here because a local farmer was walking his cows and pointed it out. It’s truly a gem on the Camino de Invierno!

The next main highlight is the A Ponte de Pedroso, this bridge dates back to the 12th century and crosses the Arnego River.

It’s a lovely earth path until Palmaz, where a local road continues to Lalín.

Lalín has recently been added as one of the official Camino de Invierno ending stages. It makes sense as the town has lots of accommodation options and the Punto de Información al Peregrino en el Camino de Invierno en Lalin, also known as Peregrinus Dezae Association and Friends of the Camino de Santiago.

Don’t miss a stop at Peregrinus Dezae, which is run by Daniel a man who embodies the true spirit of the Camino. He offers a wax stamp (donate if you can) and has tons of useful information and current conditions of the way. He can also advise where to eat in Lalín and accommodation options.

When I stopped, Albergue Lalin Centro wasn’t open, so I continued on to A Laxe.

Lalin has lots of Camino-inspired statues, like the blue pigs with yellow arrows, and numerous pilgrim statues.

The path out of Lalín is absolutey fabulous. It follows the scenic Paseo Fluvia del Rio Pontinas, with lots of little bridges and stone mills. It reminded me of a city version of the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua on the Camino Espiritual variante. Well, kind of.

After the scenic stroll ends, continue to Espino. In Espino, pass behind the Hotel & Spa Norat Torre do Deza. Go past the industrial stores and gas station on your right and walk under the tunnel of the AP-53. This leads to the Municipal Albergue of A Laxe. In A Laxe the Camino de Invierno merges with the Camino Sanabrés.

A Laxe Nearby Places to Stay and Food Options

Remember, the Municipal Xunta Albergues are basic pilgrim facilities. They are typically in nice buildings, but the kitchens provide no cookware. I always like staying in the Xuntas, but you need to be prepared that they only offer a small refrigerator and a microwave. There are no utensils, either, so I always carry my own.

I arrived in A Laxe on a Monday, so the popular restaurant up the road, Restaurante María José was closed.

I followed the way farther to Pazo de Bendoiro where I was blown away by the accommodation. There was a chapel and restaurant onsite, but the bar was closed. This may be a great place to stay if looking to treat yourself along the way.

A fellow pilgrim who had volunteered at A Laxe showed me there was a restaurant near the shop and gas station we had passed before the underpass of the AP-53. Bar Restaurante Onde Antonio is connected to the Staroli truck stop and has wi-fi, snacks, and a food menu.

Day 10 | A Laxe – Dornelas (Casa Leiras)

• 22.5 Km / 14 Miles | + / – 7 Hours
• Accommodation: Casa Leiras | Beds 10 / €15 / Add delicious communal dinner (€12)

Most pilgrims opt to walk from A Laxe to Ponte Ulla as the official Camino de Invierno stage. I opted to stop a Casa Leiras as an alternative

While the Camino de Invierno merges into the Camino Sanabrés from A Laxe, I still saw no pilgrim walking during the day.

The way follows a mixture of forest paths and roads before it goes under the impressive Ponte Taboada de Ferrocarril bridge. This leads to the A Ponte de Taboada, an ancient bridge that traces back to the year 912. This scenic footbridge crosses the Deza River and twists through an oak forest. It’s a lovely stage on the Camino de Invierno.

The path takes pilgrims to the small roadside chapel of Santiago de Taboada. Be mindful as you will have to cross the busy road to see the chapel with a small statue of Saint James that provides a water fountain.

It’s another great natural track to Tranfontao with an old palace (now a private residence). There’s another scenic trail section leading into Silleda.

Silleda is also another popular stage to stop. There are numerous restaurants, cafes, and places to stay. I had a great breakfast at Cuppedia Café, Repostería Artesá.

From here it’s straightforward to Bandeira. However, I did take a small detour on the Rio Toxa to eat my lunch near an old abandoned stone mill. It was a tranquil space and no one else was there. Find a few old picnic tables near the riverside.

Bandeira has a Xunta Albergue plus cafes, restaurants, and a grocery store.

I continued to Dornelas, where I stayed at Casa Leiras.

This Albergue is run by a warm and welcoming Italian Family. They have no wi-fi, making it the perfect place to disconnect. Keep in mind that there is nothing really around this space, but they have a small connected cafe (working on the honor system) and serve a delicious family dinner.

As I walked in the winter, I was the only one sleeping here, but the food was homemade with lots of ingredients coming from their garden.

The room is cozy and found myself catching up on my journal and sleep!

Ponte Ulla is less than 5 miles from here, but I enjoyed sleeping in the pueblo. If seeking a quiet place to disconnect, Casa Leiras is a great option.

Day 11 | Dornelas – Outeiro / Deseiro (Albergue Reina Lupa) with Pico Sacro

• 12.9 Km / 8 Miles | + / – 4 Hours
  • Add 4 Km and just over an hour for Albergue Reina Lupa from Pico Sacro Interpretation Center
• Accommodation:
  • Municipal Albergue Outeiro | Beds 32 / € 10
  • Albergue Reina Lupa Deseiro | Beds 14

From Dornelas, it’s a scenic walk to Ponte Ulla. After passing the chapel in Dornelas follow the road to the forest path. It continues into Carballeira where you follow the road into Ponte Ulla.

After crossing the bridge over the River Ulla, find yourself in the final Galicia province of A Coruña. The town also has a helpful Tourist Information that offers free wi-fi and a stamp!

The town has the popular O Cruceiro da Ulla Albergue with a connected cafe. There is also a grocery store to stock up on food if planning to sleep at the Outeiro Xunta Abergue.

Continue on the way to the iconic Capilla y Fuente de Santiaguiño. This is a small chapel with a fountain behind it that was moved here in 1724. The fountain shows the Apostle James and his two disciples, Theodosius and Athanasius, who came into many obstacles while trying to find a place to bury him in Iberia. This legend comes into play with nearby Pico Sacro.

Just down the gravel path is the Outeiro Municipal Albergue. This is a Xunta-run albergue, which means that there is no cookware and only a microwave. If sleeping here there are no nearby facilities, so you will have needed to grab ample groceries and food from Ponte Ulla.

Alternatively, you could head towards Lestedo, but it’s quite a jaunt.

I stayed at the Outeiro Albergue to climb Pico Sacro, as the trailhead is steps away from the lodging. I had wanted to climb Pico Sacro and continue to Albergue Reina Lupa, but sadly they were doing some maintenance on their bathrooms.

If you have the chance, do sleep at Reina Lupa as pilgrims say it’s one of the best places to sleep on the Camino de Invierno. It’s also the last Albergue before Santiago de Compostela.

Pico Sacro

Alternatively, if sleeping at the Xunta Albergue in Outeiro you can easily add Pico Sacro as a loop or out-and-back trail.

Pico Sacro is tied to the legend of the burial of Saint James when Theodore and Athanasius seek help from Queen Lupa. After a long journey on a stone boat, they arrived to meet the mystical pagan Queen Lupa, who was said to live in Castro Lupario near Teo on the Portuguese Way.

It was said she deceived the disciples not once, but twice as she sent them to Pico Sacro.

Queen Lupa sent Theodore and Athanasius to Mount Ilicino, which is today known as Pico Sacro. She agreed to help them find a burial place for Saint James, but upon arrival at the peak, they were met by a dragon. As it emerged from a cave, they were somehow miraculously able to defeat the creature. Immediately after that, their gift of oxen from Queen Lupa turned out to be wild bulls. Miraculously, the faithful disciples were able to tame the wild beasts.

They returned to Queen Lupa who was so surprised to see them alive she converted to Christianity. Or so the story goes.

There is no denying the energy at the top of Pico Sacro. There is indeed a cave and spectacular views of Santiago de Compostela. On a clear day, you can even see out to Teo, where Queen Lupa allegedly had her hilltop fortress.

One of the more peculiar things about Pico Sacro is the cut into the hillside that looks like a walkway. Some say the cut is natural, while others say it was manmade.

I tried to visit the Centro De Interpretación Pico Sacro, but unfortunately, it was closed.

Day 12 | Outeiro / Deseiro – Santiago de Compostela

• Outeiro to Santiago | 17 Km / 10.6 Miles | + / – 4 Hours

I slept at Outeiro, so I had around 17 Km to reach Santiago de Compostela. While the first section is a forest path, near the sports center before the Lestedo stone cross you’ll be on pavement the entire way to Santiago.

Some highlights include the Ermita de Santa Lucía and the nearby stone cross in Pineiro. Shortly after this is a bridge that crosses the rail tracks and is a living memorial to the pilgrims who were traveling by train in 2013 and were killed as a result of a train crash.

Pilgrims continue on Rúa de Sar, which follows under the mountainside that houses the Cidade da Cultura de Galicia. On a clear day, you can see views of the cathedral.

I always seem to lose my final steps into Santiago, but somehow I ended up in the correct Praza das Praterías, the plaza that leads pilgrims from the Camino Sanabrés to the front of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela.

Arrival into Santiago de Compostela from the Camino de Invierno

Take the proper time to arrive in Santiago. For some, it’s crying and collapsing to the ground. To others, it’s celebrating with friends or taking a moment of solitude and giving thanks. No matter what you feel, disappointment, just let it be as it is.

Everyone takes the journey for different reasons, so just allow it to happen with no judgment of yourself or others.

My Camino de Invierno route ended with so much gratitude and very quietly. There were no other pilgrims in the Praza do Obradoiro, so I headed to the Pilgrim Welcome Center. To my surprise, I was the first pilgrim to arrive that day and I was one of ten lucky pilgrims to receive the free pilgrim lunch from the Parador.

Check out my complete Santiago de Compostela Pilgrim Guide to help with all the logistics of receiving the Compostela and helpful resources for pilgrims.

Highlights of Santiago de Santiago include visiting the Cathedral, eating at the Mercado de Abastos, relaxing throughout the green spaces in the city, or strolling the Old Town in Santiago. The Old Town is fairly compact and easy to explore on foot and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

With so much to see, I think it’s best to spend at least one full day in Santiago de Compostela, but two days is better.

Eagar pilgrims attend multiple masses in hopes of seeing the giant botafumeiro swing from the ceiling inside the cathedral. The botafumeiro, is a massive silver incense burner and weighs over 175 pounds. Additionally, the noon mass announces the country and routes of pilgrims that have already arrived that day.

While for many pilgrims this is the end of their journey, others may feel called to walk to the “End of the World.” The Camino Finisterre Muxia is a spectacular 3 – 5 day walk to the rugged Atlantic Coast. There are two endpoints, either Finisterre or Muxia, but both sit on underrated Spain’s Death Coast.

There are lots of worthwhile things to see on the Death Coast like the village of Cee and its nearby Ezaro Waterfall. One of the more unique things to do is climb the sacred Monte Pindo, which is also connected to the famous Queen Lupa.

If you love Galicia, afterward rent a car and explore hidden gems on a Galicia road trip. There are many treasures and hikes that make renting a car worthwhile.

Where to Stay in Santiago de Compostela

Santiago de Compostela can be extremely busy. There are numerous routes that all merge in this lively city of Galicia. It’s best to book a room in advance, especially during the summer months.

Albergues Near Central Santiago de Compostela

➜ Seminario Menor de la Asunción is a huge pilgrim facility (250+ beds) located in a seminary nestled above Bevis Park.

➜ The Last Stamp is a popular albergue located in the history center with multiple rooms over 5 floors with the facilities located in the basement

➜ Albergue Azabache has everything you need and is located in the heart of the city.

➜ Budget Hostels and Albergues in Santiago de Compostela

More Popular Places to Sleep in Santiago de Compostela

➜ Hospedería San Martin Pinario is found in an old monastery built in the 16th century that’s now a hotel with private rooms, restaurants, cafe, and is right across the way from the cathedral. Rooms include breakfast and pilgrims can receive a discount if you contact them directly.

➜ Pensión O Códice is a popular pension with bright and open rooms, many with views of the Cathedral. Sleep like a baby with the soundproof windows

➜ Hotel Plaza Obradoiro is located in the main plaza. This modern hotel has one of the best locations in the city for a fair price.

➜ Hotel Rua Villar is a restored 18th-century house that is now a popular hotel in the center of town

➜ Hostal Reis Catolicos is a pilgrim hostel no more, although the signboard still says that. The luxury 5-star hotel is steps away from the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela in the Praza do Obradoiro and boasts old-world charm and a highly-rated restaurant.

➜ Browse all the places to stay in Santiago de Compostela Spain

Conclusion | My Camino de Invierno Stages & Route Options

In short, this is my day-by-day itinerary of my Camino de Invierno stages and different route options. This is simply an overview of my daily Camino de Invierno stages to highlight this underrated Camino route with actual distances and walking durations.

The Camino de Invierno is a little different than the popular Camino Frances and Camino Portuguese from Porto, only because of the lack of infrastructure. This can result in making some of the Camino de Invierno stages longer and more challenging.

However, this Camino de Santiago route is gaining popularity with more pilgrims walking the way. This is causing a rise in more albergues and services along the path.

With its natural beauty, historical cities, stunning landscapes, and authentic vibe, the Camino de Invierno is a fabulous Camino de Santiago route. As it is not as busy as other routes, it can offer a more reflective and quiet journey.

All roads lead to Santiago de Compostela with the option to walk to the rugged shoreline of the Death Coast.

Have you walked the Camino de Invierno? What did you think of the stages? To me, this is one of the most underrated and beautiful Camino de Santiago routes. Is there anything in this guide like contacts that needs updating? Let me know in the comments below!

Pack This Post for Later! Pin It!

Disclaimer: There’s a chance this post contains affiliate links, and I receive a small (but grateful) portion of the sale. There’s no extra cost to you, and I only promote things that I use and love.