Hike to 4 Breathtaking Hilltop Asturias Villages in the Picos de Europa

The Picos de Europa National Park in northern Spain is home to stunning limestone mountain peaks, endless hiking trails, and a number of isolated hilltop villages. This popular National Park in Spain spans over 250 square miles and across the three autonomous regions of Cantabria, Asturias, and León, as in Castille & León.

One of the best full day hikes in the Picos de Europa twists through four popular Asturias villages. These lovely Asturias villages include: Poncebos, Bulnes, Sotres, and Tielve. Along the trail savor epic viewpoints, gawk at iconic limestone mountain peaks, and appreciate the unique stone huts that are used by shepherds during the harsh winter months.

This long hike is the Picos de Europa is diverse, rewarding, but will take almost the entire day.

The following Picos de Europa hiking guide includes: how to reach the trailhead, a downloadable map, detailed directions, and useful tips for visiting all the Asturias villages en-route.

Here’s how to hike to four Asturias villages in one day in Spain’s Picos de Europa National Park.

Table of Contents

Disclosure: This is part of my Hikes & Adventures series, which means these treks can be strenuous and challenging. These are my experiences and I am not an expert. Please have all the proper equipment, verify the weather conditions, use professional resources, do your own research, be mindful of constantly changing trail conditions, and take into consideration your own physical abilities and/or limitations. These guides are for entertainment purposes only. Please see my full disclosure for more information here.

• How to Get to Poncebos the Gateway Village
• Asturias Villages Hiking Map in the Picos de Europa & Overview
• How to Reach The Asturias Village Hike Trailhead
• Asturias Villages Hike by Trail Sections
• Options on How to Return to Poncebos Asturias
• Tips for Visiting & Hiking the Asturias Villages
• Conclusion | Picos de Europa Hiking Route to Four Asturias Villages

How to Get to the Gateway Village of Poncebos

To hike the four Asturias villages in the Picos de Europa you’ll need to get to Poncebos Asturias. The easiest way to get to Poncebos is by public bus from the village hub of Las Arenas de Cabrales. The buses run from June to mid October and is a short and scenic 10 minute ride.

The buses drop in the parking lot of the Bulnes Funicular and are run by Alsa Bus Company.

 🚐 Las Arenas de Cabrales to Poncebos | Bus Company: Alsa | Duration: 10 minutes | Bus Ticket Price: €1.55 | Bus Times: Buses depart Las Arenas on the hour from 8:00-13:00 & 17:00-19:00 / Buses run from June to mid October | Check the Alsa Bus Schedule Here

Verified taxis also run between Las Arenas de Cabrales and Poncebos and cost between €8 to €10.

If visiting the Picos de Europa National Park by car, there are parking options along the road, but parking can be hard to secure, especially during the busy summer season and on weekends.

Asturias Villages Hiking Map in the Picos de Europa

Poncebos ➜ Bulnes ➜ Sotres ➜ Tielve ➜ Poncebos (optional)

Overview of Asturias Villages Route in the Picos de Europa

• Loop Trail: Poncebos to Poncebos
• Official Trail Name: The route follows the GR-202 La Ruta de Reconquista until Invernales del Texu, where it continues on the gravel road to Sotres. From Sotres, follow the short trail of PR-PNPE 20 Monte Camba to Tielve
  • Trail Markers are Red and White Rectangles (Blazes), Monte Camba is Yellow and White Blazes
• Difficulty: Moderate- Challenging, due to the distance and time
  • Some stretches of the trail have steep ascent and sometimes narrow pathways
  • Those who are fearful of heights may not feel comfortable hiking to Bulnes Asturias or from Sotres to Tielve
  • The trail is sometimes stoney and can be slippery and muddy in the rain
• Total Distance Poncebos to Poncebos: Around 15 miles (24.3 Km)
  • Recommended Route Poncebos to Tielve: 11.5 miles (18.5 Km)
• Excursion Duration: 7-10 hours, dependent on weather, stops, speed, ect
• This Picos de Europa hiking route is best to hike in the peak and shoulder season before the snow falls. In the summer, start in the early hours of the morning to avoid walking in the intense sun. Make sure to allot enough time avoid walking in the dark.
• Essentials for Day Hiking in the Picos de Europa
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Small Day Hiking Backpack
  • Water in a Reusable Water Bottle
  • Trekking Poles if you love them
  • Hiking Boots or trail runners
  • Layered clothing and hiking pants for some of the overgrown parts of the trail
  • Euros for cafes and restaurants

➯ Hey… don’t forget your Travel Insurance! I love SafetyWing

How to Reach The Asturias Village Hike Trailhead

Buses from Las Arenas de Cabrales drop at the Bulnes Funicular parking lot. If the weather is bad or you don’t feel like hiking, it’s possible to ride the Bulnes funicular. Be mindful that the price is quite steep for the 8 minute ride.

 Poncebos to Bulnes Funicular | Company: Alsa | Duration: 7 minutes | Round-Trip Ticket Price: €22.16 | Departure: every 30 minutes from Poncebos | Hours: High Season: 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-20:00 / Low Season: 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:00

From the Bulnes funicular parking lot walk towards the Hotel Garganta del Cares and head to the the Bulnes trailhead. This walk is about 15-20 minutes along the road. While the road is not especially busy with traffic, stay on the left side of the road.

Bulnes Picos de Europa is only accessible by foot or via the funicular. There is no car road to Bulnes.

Asturias Villages Hike by Trail Sections

Poncebos to Bulnes | Bulnes to Sotres | Sotres to Tielve

Hiking Poncebos to Bulnes

The first Asturias village to hike to is the isolated Bulnes village. This section of the hike follows the route of “Canal del Texu.” The official signboard also marks one of the most famous hikes in the entire Picos de Europa, the Ruta del Cares. However, the Cares Gorge hike runs parallel along the Rio Cares.

To hike to Bulnes, you must cross the Cares River by a stone bridge.

The hiking path to Bulnes is clearly marked with red and white blazes all the way to Bulnes. The trail follows the GR-202 La Ruta de Reconquista all the way to just before Sotres village.

🥾 Here’s the complete and detailed hiking guide for Bulnes

The trail to Bulnes is quite steep and can be narrow in sections. There are areas of exposed limestone rocks and no guardrails.

Continue on the path and pass where the funicular arrives into Bulnes.

There are two sections of Bulnes, a lower and a higher. Both sections are cute and worth a stroll. In Bulnes, there are a few cafes, restaurants, and even some places to sleep.

Make sure to allot an hour or two to explore charming Bulnes.

 🥾 Poncebos to Bulnes de Abajo | Distance: 2.5 Miles | Duration: 1 – 1.5 hours

Hiking Bulnes to Sotres

To continue on to Sotres, leave from the lower village of Bulnes in the direction of the Mirador del Bulnes, or Mirador Picu Urriellu. The viewpoint is only a short detour to visit. On a clear day it’s possible to see the iconic limestone peaks of Naranjo de Bulnes, or Picu Urriellu. However, there will be another opportunity to see it from another angle on the hike to Sotres.

The trail to Sotres follows the rocky path through a forest and is well-marked with red and white blazes. The path to Sotres is a gradual accent as it twists up the mountain.

Be mindful of a small stream to ford. It will be more prevalent in the spring and on a rainy day.

As the trail nears the end of the forest, it opens up to incredible views of the limestone mountains of the Picos de Europa. Catch glimpses of the stoney shepherd huts notorious in this area in the far off-distance.

Fuente la Jelguera

The Fuente la Jelguera is a small hut that has a generous water fountain. Make sure to fill up as there is not another water source until Sotres village. There are a few trees that provide some shade near the signboard, so it’s a great place take a quick rest.

Right before the hut, find a useful wooden signboard that marks out the main waypoints of Bulnes, Pandebano Pass, and the Trenosa refugio hut. To continue towards Sotres, head in the direction of the Pandebano Pass. The signboard says this section is around 35 minutes.

The hiking path from Fuente la Jelguera to the Pandebano Pass is open and exposed. The trail passes by stone houses. some that are even marked with the red and white trail markers.

The trail continues with an ascent up to the fabulous Pandebano Pass.

 🥾 Fuente la Jelguera to Pandebano Pass | Distance:  1.25 miles | Duration: 45 min to an hour

Pandébano Pass

The Pandebano Pass is spectacular on a clear day. To the right, appreciate the stellar views of Naranjo de Bulnes. Straight ahead, see the first distance views of the highest village in the Picos de Europa National Park, Sotres.

The Pandebano Pass is identified by the official signboard. Be mindful that there are many divergent routes, including the strenuous trail to the Refugio Vega de Urriellu. This high mountain shelter sits at the base of Naranjo de Bulnes.

There was a nice break in the weather at Pandebano Pass and found it to be an excellent place to eat my picnic lunch and rest. There is no shade, but the views are breathtaking.

While I was at the Pandebano Pass I encountered a few loose dogs, but they appeared to be working and herding a huge herd of goats. I saw no shepherds, but the dogs were not aggressive or even acknowledge me. I am simply including this for those afraid or fearful of dogs.

⁉️ All signs in the Picos de Europa warn dog owners bringing their dogs along on the hike to keep them leashed at all times.

To continue on the trail of the charming Asturias villages, head in the direction of Sotres. The signboard officially calls this section of the route El Texu Sotres. This trail route is still part of the GR-202 La Ruta de Reconquista, but is also marked as PR-PNPE 21.

Pandébano Pass to Invernales del Texu

Follow the trail down to the gravel road. Stay on the gravel road, but farther up, look for the red and white blazes. The foot trail twist through a lovely small wooded section. The forest was home to active fire salamanders that were fun to watch.

The foot path opens up to panoramic views of Invernales del Texu. The trail has a slight descent and take you to a gravel road. Stay on the gravel road that winds through the abandoned stone huts of Invernales del Texu.

Invernales del Texu

The stone huts of Invernales del Texu are abandoned during the summer months, but make for an interesting and beautiful stroll. In the “stone village,” do not continue on the Ruta de la Reconquista. Instead, follow the road all the way up to Sotres village.

The road to Sotres provides excellent views of the stone huts and becomes paved. For safety, make sure to walk on the left-side of the road.

Sotres Village

Sotres is the highest village in the Picos de Europa at 3,445 feet (1,050m). The village is small, but offers a great stopping point to sip on a local Asturian cider or beverage of your choice. There are a few restaurants, cafes, and a few tiendas selling the famous cheese of the region, Queso Cabrales.

Sotres has numerous accommodation options in case you wish to sleep in the one of the most popular Asturias village. Sotres pueblo has a large water fountain in the center of town and a bus stop.

Sotres Bus Information

There is no need to continue on the hike if you feel like returning to Poncebos from Sotres. The bus from Sotres also offers the opportunity to stop at Tielve before arriving to Poncebos.

The bus from Sotres stops at Tielve and takes 10 minutes. If skipping Tielve, the bus from Sotres to Poncebos takes around 20 minutes. Cost is €1.55 whether you exit in Tielve or Poncebos.

Sotres (Departure Time)

9:00

10:00

11:00

12:00

13:00

Afternoon Break

17:00

18:00

19:00

20:00

Hiking Sotres to Tielve

⁉️ Be mindful that there are two hiking routes to Tielve from Sotres. If hiking the Asturias villages in one day, look for the PR-PNPE 20 Monte Camba route that is little outside of town. The longer and alternative route starts near the center of Sotres pueblo and cuts through the mountains. The alternative route is challenging and takes at least 3 hours.

To complete the Asturias villages trek in a day, you’ll need to take the shorter PR-PNPE 20 Monte Camba route. The shorter trail is outside of town and has a nice rest and viewpoint with a few benches. Find it near here.

The short trail descends down the mountainside. The path has incredible views and it runs parallel (at a greater height) next to the main road. The path reaches the road a little bit before Tielve. This section of the PR-PNPE 20 trail is marked with yellow and white blazes.

Be prepared to walk on the road a bit to Tielve. Don’t forget to walk on the left side of the road. The cute village of Tielve will be on the right-side.

🥾 Sotres to Tielve | Short Trail of PR-PNPE 20 | Distance: 3 Miles | Duration: 1 hour

Tielve Village

Tielve is super cute and is probably one of the most overlooked Asturias villages. Wander the lovely streets, or grab a drink at one of the few restaurants.

From Tielve there are two paths to return to Poncebos: the hiking path in the mountains and the actual car road. The hiking path in the mountains is not recommended. There are reports of rockslides and some sections of the trail being dodgy.

If planning on walking to Poncebos, locals recommend following the concrete road to Poncebos from Tielve.

Complete Stats for Recommended Asturias Villages Hiking Route

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• Route: Poncebos ➜ Bulnes ➜ Sotres ➜ Tielve
• Poncebos to Tielve Distance: 11.5 miles (18.5 Km)
• Duration: With stops in the listed Asturias villages, breaks, ect this route took me 7.5 hours

Options on How to Return to Poncebos Asturias

There are two main ways to return to Poncebos, either walk along the main road or take the bus.

Walk on the Road to Poncebos

The road path is 5 kilometers (3.13 miles) on the concrete road. This is the route that the bus follows and all the cars take that connect Sotres to Poncebos. Although the road is not that busy, the path is quite curvy, so avoid walking to Poncebos.

If you really feel like walking the road, the route ends at the Bulnes Funicular Parking Lot in Poncebos.

Bus from Tielve to Poncebos | Recommended

In my opinion, for time and safety, it’s best to catch the bus from Tielve to Poncebos. The bus stop is located right at the beginning of the village right by the signboard for Tielve.

The Last Bus from Tielve to Poncebos is at 20:10

The bus ride from Tielve to Poncebos only takes 10 minutes and costs €1.55. Buses drop at the Bulnes Funicular parking lot.

Tielve (Departure Time)

9:10

10:10

11:10

12:10

13:10

Afternoon Break

17:10

18:10

19:10

20:10

Tips for Visiting & Hiking the Asturias Villages

Here’s a few tips if hiking this Asturias Villages route in the Picos de Europa.

Be Mindful of the Weather

This full day hiking trail through the Asturias villages skirts around the high altitude mountains. The highest point of this trail reaches almost 4,000 ft, so remember that the weather can change quickly. Be prepared for the weather to cycle through four seasons in an hour. On the day I hike this trail, it went from rain, to fog, to sun.

Many of these trails are dirt paths. In case of heavy rains the trails become really muddy and unpleasant. There are sections with exposed limestone rocks as well. Be careful as they can be very slippery when wet.

Avoid walking in bad weather, especially heavy rains that cause hazards on the trail.

It is not advised to hike when the trails are covered in snow. Also, be mindful that in the off-season many of the Asturias villages in the mountains shut down or have very limited accommodations and restaurants open.

Do I Need a Guide to Hike in the Picos de Europa?

All of the Picos de Europa hiking trails can be completed independently, as the trails are well-marked and frequented by hikers. The Asturias villages of Bulnes and Sotres are popular with day trippers.

However, some of these trails are steep and narrow, so if uncomfortable with that, it is possible to hire a professional mountain guide. Never stray from the trail and be mindful of your own physical limitations. It’s best to always carry a map or have an offline map downloaded to your phone.

The only route that requires a professional guide is the climbing route of Naranjo de Bulnes, or Picu Urriellu.

Can I Do the Asturias Villages in the Reverse Route?

Yes! From Poncebos just wait for the bus and exit in Tielve. Just be mindful to not miss the route up to Sotres. It is not as well-marked from the road. Follow along with an offline map.

Can I Visit These Asturias Villages Without Hiking?

Yes, Absolutely! Poncebos, Tielve, and Sotres are all connected via a road.

From Poncebos, there is a small shuttle bus that stops in the Asturias villages of Tielve and Sotres from June to mid October. It’s inexpensive and easy. The bus company Alsa runs these buses frequently nearly every hour. There is an afternoon break, which is common in most places in Spain.

From Poncebos, it’s possible to ride the Bulnes Funicular to Bulnes. Bulnes does not have a car road, so you must either hike or ride the funicular to reach it.

It’s also possible to hire a certified taxi to move between the Asturias villages of Las Arenas de Cabrales, Poncebos, Sotres, and Tielve.

Certified Taxi List

License Number	Phone Number
1	616 961 201
2	616 961 201
5	608 182 242
6	625 201 900
9	662 547 265
13	662 166 060
14	616 191 996
16	660 190 561
17	630 916 032

Where to Base

Technically, you could base at any of the above listed Asturias villages.

With so many nearby hikes, I loved staying in Poncebos.

Places to Stay in Poncebos Asturias

➜ Hostal Poncebos is an awesome place to stay in Poncebos. Find a welcoming family, delicious and hearty meals, and a rustic charm that is steps away from multiple hiking trails.

➜Arcea Hotel Mirador de Cabrales

 ➜ Hotel Garganta del Cares

Places to Stay in Other Asturias Villages

➜ Bulnes Accommodation Options

 ➜ Sotres Accommodation Options

 ➜ Tielve Accommodation Options

Alternative and Nearby Places to Stay in the Picos de Europa

Las Arenas de Cabrales is more of a gateway hub in the mountains and is a little bigger than most of the other Asturias villages. Las Arenas de Cabrales has plenty of things to do, boasts numerous traditional cafes and restaurants, and offers more cultural things to do like visit a cheese museums or enjoy an Asturias cider-house.

It’s also easy to reach the underrated hike of the Ruta Rio Casaño at the foothills of the Picos de Europa mountains.

Las Arenas de Cabrales is well connected to the rest of the Picos de Europa and has access to the Asturias coastline.

➜ Browse the best places to stay in Las Arenas de Cabrales

Picos de Europa Hiking Route to Four Asturias Villages

In short, the Asturias villages hike in the Picos de Europa is one of the best hikes from Poncebos. This Picos de Europa hiking route starts from Poncebos ➜ Bulnes ➜ Sotres ➜ Tielve and finishes in Poncebos Asturias. Alternatively, the trek could be reversed.

The challenging full day hike showcases picturesque hilltop villages, stunning mountain views, and does not go deep into the high mountains. This is one of the best hikes in the Picos de Europa to experience the charm of a few of the most popular Asturias villages.

Have you hiked the Poncebos full circuit hike in the Picos de Europa? What did you think? Are there any trail updates to add? Let me know in the comments below!

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