How to Plan & Walk the Special Camino Lebaniego to the Foothills of the Picos de Europa
The Camino Lebaniego is an incredible Camino route that leads pilgrims to the sacred site of the Santo Toribio de Liébana Monastery. This monastery is nestled picturesquely in the foothills of the Picos de Europa National Park and is said to house one of the largest pieces of the Lignum Crucis, or the supposed piece of the cross on which Jesus was crucified.
It is a significant pilgrimage route in Spain, but for those seeking more of a spiritual journey, it is a spectacular path that boasts mountain views, villages hidden in river valleys, and the solitude to reflect with nature.
The Camino Lebaniego departs from the Camino del Norte Camino route and concludes in one of Spain’s most beautiful pueblos, Potes. From here, pilgrims can rejoin the Camino del Norte by bus, or continue on the Camino Frances via a handful of different sleepy routes.
After I completed the Camino Lebaniego, I joined the Camino Frances via the Camino Vadiniense.
This Camino Lebaniego guide includes helpful tools for planning this lesser-known route, typical Camino Lebaniego stages and distances, my personal Camino Lebaniego route and tips, and my budget for walking the Camino Lebaniego in 3 days.
Here’s the ultimate guide to the Camino Lebaniego, a fantastic alternative Camino route.
Table of Contents
- Overview of the Camino Lebaniego
- What to Do Before Walking the Camino Lebaniego
- Useful Planning Tools for the Camino Lebaniego
- Typical Camino Lebaniego Stages & Distances
- My Personal Camino Lebaniego Route
- Arriving in Potes & Visiting the Monasterio de Santo Toribio
- What to See in Potes Spain
- Camino Lebaniego Budget
- Tips for Continuing Onwards on the Camino Vadiniense
- Conclusion | Final Thoughts on the Camino Lebaniego Route
Overview of the Camino Lebaniego
This is a basic overview of how to plan for the Camino Lebaniego, which can be walked as a detour on the Camino del Norte or as a separate and independent Camino route. The route is typically walked over three or four days depending on physical abilities. The route begins at the stunning coastline of northern Spain and leads to the Cantabrian region of the Picos de Europa National Park.
This Camino route won’t be for everyone as the daily walking stages are longer, there are no bag transfer services, and services like cafes and tiendas are nearly nonexistant until Potes.
It’s worth noting that this short pilgrimage is quite popular with local Spanish tourists who want to take the holy pilgrimage to the Monasterio de Santo Toribio.
This Camino route has its own Credencial and includes lots of helpful route information and useful phone numbers.
This Camino route is popular in the summer months of June – August, and as it continues to gain popularity it will become even busier. The shoulder months of April, May, September, and October are nice, too, with fewer pilgrims walking and hit-and-miss weather. The Picos de Europa do get snow, so it’s best to be mindful of the current weather conditions.
Quite a few of the Albergues are open to both pilgrims and local hikers looking to experience the best of the Picos de Europa. At some stages, it’s essential to book in advance. Even in the winter months, the albergues can open for those enjoying the skiing season.
I walked the Camino Lebaniego in September and had fairly nice weather. There were only a few pilgrims walking, but many spaces in the albergues were filled with local hikers. I did message Albergues a day or two in advance to guarantee a room. The first pilgrim-only Albergue is in Potes, so it’s best to make a reservation.
If the albergues are filled there are a few private accommodations in some of the villages, but these places can be quite expensive, especially for solo pilgrims.
What to Do Before Walking the Camino Lebaniego
Most people will start the Camino Lebaniego from San Vicente de la Barquera. I suggest spending the night in San Vicente de la Barquera before departing on the Camino Lebaniego route.
Places to Sleep in San Vicente de la Barquera before Departure
- Nomada Hostel is a great option for pilgrims and a stay includes free breakfast
- Pensión Arenal has nice and big private rooms with kind hosts and is located right near the center of town
- Pensión Liebana is a lovely small pension located on a cobblestone road that offers big rooms, friendly hosts, and a basic breakfast
- Hotel Luzon offers basic rooms in a beautiful building located right in the center of the village
- Hotel Boga Boga is located steps away from some of the best restaurants and has clean and simple rooms for more than a fair price
- Hotel Playa de Meron is a good option if you want to spend the majority of your day next to the beach
➜ Browse the Best Places to Stay in San Vicente de la Barquera Spain
Below, find some helpful resources to be fully prepared to walk the Camino Lebaniego.
1 | Decide How Many Days You Want to Walk the Camino Lebaniego & Contact Albergues Before Walking
Typically, the Camino Lebaniego takes a minimum of 3 days to walk. Some people plan on splitting up the long day between Cades and Cabañes. This is typically Day 2 of the Camino Leganiego, which means it would be a 4-day walk to Potes. The Camino Lebaniego can casually be walked over 5 days, too.
If you plan on walking over the weekend, make sure you contact the Albergues on the Camino Lebaniego stages at least a week in advance. Many of the albergues are filled with tourists looking to hike the lower mountains of the Picos de Europa. On the weekends, these albergues are typically full, especially in the peak summer months. I even ran into booking issues during September.
Booking ahead is almost essential on this route, except if you plan on utilizing the Municipal Albergue in Potes. Many of these Albergues are found on Booking.com or can be contacted via WhatsApp.
It is no fun to be scrambling to find lodging in the mountains.
2 | Pick up the Lebaniego Credential & Paper Map in San Vicente de la Barquera
Pilgrims should visit the Tourist Information Center in San Vicente de la Barquera to obtain their official “Credencial” for this separate Camino route. If you have already been walking the Camino del Norte, you can easily use your current Credencial. What I loved about the Lebaniego Credencial is that it is packed with colorful maps, phone numbers, and little tidbits about the route.
The “Credenciales,” or Pilgrim passport, is stamped daily along the way and provides discounts and the ability to sleep in Municipal Albergues (Public Albergues). In fact, the San Vicente de la Barquera Tourist Information Center will give you your first stamp!
The Lebaniego Credential is completely free and becomes an incredible souvenir and a useful tool for walking the Camino Lebaniego.
San Vicente de la Barquera Tourist Information Center | Find it here: Av. Los Soportales, 20 | Hours: Mon-Sat, 10:00 – 14:00 / 16:00 – 19:00, Sun 10:30 – 14:00
The San Vicente de la Barquera Tourist Information Center also has a fantastic Camino Lebaniego Map. The map shows route overviews, water sources, points of interest, services, and even alternative routes. I used my paper map daily and was so happy to have it.
The map is compiled from the Cantabria Region Government and is considered the official source for the stages and distances.
I have also heard it’s possible to pick up the Lebaniego Credential from the Hilltop Church of Parroquia De Nuestra Señora De Los Ángeles. I am unsure if they ask for a donation for the credencial, but there is a fee (€2) to enter the church.
3 | Use an ATM & Replenish Supplies
It’s a good idea to replenish cash and supplies in San Vicente de la Barquera before departing on the Camino Lebaniego.
Don’t bother carrying any food items that need to be cooked on the stovetop. On the Camino Lebaniego, there are no hostels or Albergues with a stove, most only offer a microwave. Many of the Albergues only offer communal meals at night. Some even offer picnic meals to take the next day.
That means don’t waste space in your bag with pasta or rice packets. I made this mistake and carried unnecessary weight with me.
There is one ATM in Cades at the town hall and then nothing again until Potes. Most albergues only accept cash payments or wire transfers from Spanish bank accounts.
4 | Double Check Your Camino Packing List
Since most pilgrims typically add on the Camino Lebaniego from their Camino route, they won’t necessarily need to worry or alter their current Camino packing list. As this is more of a mountain route and the weather can change, I suggest leaning somewhere between a standard Camino packing list and my Winter Camino packing list.
That being said, I found myself packing a little differently for this Camino route as it is more mountainous, services are more limited, and the nights can be cold.
Make sure to carry a sleeping bag. I love love my Sea to Summit Spark Sleeping Bag. The Sea to Summit Spark 30F Down Sleeping Bag is good if you sleep cold, or the Spark 45F Down Sleeping Bag if you sleep warm.
I also swapped out my favorite Camino shoes from Altra Lone Peaks for my more sturdy mountain shoes La Sportiva TX4 Approach Shoes. This was also because I planned on hiking in the Picos de Europa after my Camino.
I brought a lightweight wool sweater for the nights and this packable down jacket from REI. A rain jacket is also essential, and I wore mine for cool and breezy mornings and, of course, a rainy day in the mountains.
The terrain is definitely rocky with steeper ascents and descents so hiking poles can be handy. Some forest sections can also be overgrown so I preferred my hiking pants compared to my Dry on the Fly 7″ hiking shorts.
I also carried four pairs of wool socks. I like both SmartWool and DarnTough and carried a mixture of different styles and thicknesses. In addition, I carried an extra pair of underwear because I knew laundry would be tough to keep up with.
I was still able to fit everything in my Osprey Kyte 36L Backpack. They have discontinued this backpack but now offer the Kyte 38 L Pack or something similar is the Sirrus 34 Pack. One of the best Camino tips I can offer is to have your backpack fitted at a gear store by a professional.
5 | Enjoy San Vicente de la Barquera
Finally, do take the time to enjoy San Vicente de la Barquera. This is a lovely coastal village found on the Cantaria coast of Spain. The small fishing village boasts a fantastic medieval quarter, a beautiful hilltop church, intact castle walls, and lovely beaches made for surfers.
On a clear day, you will be able to see those iconic limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa National Park. I’ve visited San Vicente de la Barquera three times and still have not been lucky enough to see these picture-perfect views that can be seen in photos and postcards.
Useful Planning Tools for the Camino Lebaniego
As this Camino route isn’t as well trekked, there aren’t really any great and detailed guidebooks. I found the Credencial has all the essential tools and information you need and is connected to the official Camino Lebaniego website.
If you don’t want to carry a guidebook, Gronze has a lot of the information and routes on their Camino Lebaniego / Vadiniense Route.
- Booking.com is an excellent resource for booking private albergues, casa rurals, pensions, and accommodations along the route. I often check the habitation review before booking.
- Maps.me is a great offline map and I used it on this route a lot more than I thought I would
- I record all my routes with Wikiloc and did find some helpful routes to export out.
- There is a Camino Lebaniego & Vadiniense Facebook Page that has some up-to-date information
- I also like to check in on the Camino Forums and search Camino Lebaniego
- WhatsApp is essential for contacting Albergues to book in advance, unless you get a Spanish SimCard before hand.
Standard Camino Lebaniego Stages & Distances
The most popular way to walk the Camino Lebaniego is over 3 days. However, 4 days is also a fantastic option.
The Camino Lebaniego is fairly well-marked with red arrows and has its own marking of a red cross. This is a nod to the piece of the true cross located in the Santo Toribio Monastery. It’s worth noting that you still may find the famous yellow arrows of the Camino, as to indicate the direction of the Camino del Norte.
The Camino Lebaniego does follow the Camino del Norte for the first 7.25 miles or so until the village of Muñorrodero. Here you will see the official road split and red arrows and wooden signboards for the Camino Lebaniego.
Official Camino Lebaniego Stages & Distances in 3 Days
The official route states that Santo Toribio de Liébana is 71.9 KM (44.7 miles) from San Vicente de la Barquera. There are official distances and hours from the Camino Lebaniego Map compiled by the Cantabria Tourism Board.
- Day 1 | San Vicente de la Barquera – Cades | Miles / 28.5 KM | 7 Hours
- Day 2 | Cades – Cabañes | Miles / 31.3 KM | 11 Hours
- Day 3 | Cabañes – Santo Toribio Monastery (via Potes) | Miles / 12.1 KM | 3.5 Hours
Many pilgrims decide to split Day 2 over two days. This means an overnight in the village of Cicera. That would make Day 2 Cades – Cicera 16.9 KM with Day 3 Cicera – Cabañes 14.4 KM.
This Most Important Advice on Walking Any Camino Route
Remember, the Camino is all about the journey and not the destination. There is no right or wrong way to walk the Camino. Let go of judgments of yourself and others as you walk. It’s the best way.
Always walk your own journey, stay on the trail, listen to your body, and let the magic of the way unfold before your eyes.
Show kindness to fellow pilgrims by wishing them a “buen camino,” which means good walk, good way, or good path. It’s the common greeting along the way.
Always walk your own Camino, on this journey, and in your life.
My Personal Camino Lebaniego Route
I decided to walk the Camino Lebaniego by following the typical 3-day route. A majority of the day is spent walking. Once in the small villages, there are not a whole lot of things to see. The only exception to this would be Potes. If you have the time, it would be nice to sleep an extra night in Potes as there are numerous things to see and do here.
After my arrival in Potes, I continued to walk the Camino Vadiniense, which heads deeper into the Picos de Europa National Park and then leaves the mountains towards the Camino Frances. From here, accommodation is even more limited so you must book in advance or you may be scrambling for a room (like I did a few times).
Skip to: Camino Lebaniego Day 2 | Camino Lebaniego Day 3 | Visiting Santo Toribio de Liébana
Day 1 | San Vicente de la Barquera – Cades (Albergue El Carabo)
- 16.5 Miles / 26.5 KM | + / – 7.5 Hours
- Accommodation: Albergue El Cárabo (Puente el Arroyo) | 19€ for bed and breakfast
- Contact Information: +34 613 144 466
To reach the Camino Lebaniego you will need to follow the Camino del Norte. Make sure to hit the ATM and stock up on supplies before departing San Vicente de la Barquera.
The route follows the Camino del Norte mostly on pavement, but you will start to notice the iconic red markers of the Camino Lebaniego. A stop in the village Serdio on the Camino del Norte is a must for the tortilla con patas (omelette with potato) from La Gloria. I got mine to-go since I was so full from the free breakfast included at Nomada Hostel in San Vicente de la Barquera.
There is an option to switch to a dirt path before Muñorrodero which I took. That makes the first 7 miles or so are mostly on pavement and even more if you stay on the road. Once in Muñorrodero the Camino route splits. There are arrows in the direction to stay on the Camino del Norte or to take the Camino Leganiego.
Muñorrodero is a cute village with lots of stone paintings and full little sculptures. This is the last bar before Cades, so make sure to have food, and snacks, and are ready to continue into Cades.
🥾 San Vicente de la Barquera – Muñorrodero | 7.25 Miles / KM | + / – 3 Hours
Start of Camino Lebaniego
The Camino Lebaniego follows the Nansa River. The route moves to the Senda Fluvial del Nansa and this is a scenic and local trail. What’s great is that this local trail is fairly well-marked with distances to destination. There are also occasional red arrows and signboards for the official Camino Lebaniego.
Along the river trail are diverse landscapes. There are sections with wooden bridges, meadows, and a little bit of everything. Find lots of places to rest and dip your feet in the stream which I did with my tortilla in my hand!
There’s a nice uphill that leads you down to another section of the river trail. Some sections were narrow with tubing. Make sure to follow the signboards in the direction of Central Hydroelectric de Trascudia. The trail leads to a hydroelectric building with a small waterfall. There is a small water fountain so take advantage of the fresh water and continue to follow the Camino Lebaniego signboard.
It’s an uphill climb through a beautiful meadow with sweeping views. Afterwards, come downhill and into the village of Camijanes. There are two options, to either follow the official route that follows along the road or to continue on an earth trail. I opted for the Senda which is still considered the Senda Fluvial del Nansa. This earth trail is a shorter distance, but more steep with sections of tubing.
The earth trail is recommended over the road route.
The trail leads to Puente el Arroyo, which is actually before Cades. I opted to stay in Albergue El Cárabo, which is right across the bridge.
Albergue El Carabo
The Albergue El Carabo is located in the hamlet of Puente el Arroyo before Cades. Be mindful that there are no services in Cades, but there is an ATM. Albergue Carabo is a nice albergue that does offer drinks for purchase and offers a hearty pilgrim dinner at 20:00. The communal dinner is 11€ and includes two courses and a small dessert.
A simple breakfast is also included with the nights stay in Cades. There is also an opportunity to purchase a picnic meal for the following day (7.50€).
Albergue El Carabo has all the best amenities for pilgrims. There is a place to wash clothes, a drying line, WiFi, and warm showers. It’s very clean and the hospitalerio is super kind and helpful. Remember, there is no kitchen available to cook, so you will need to rely on the meal plans and carry enough food for the following day, unless you take the picnic option.
More Places to Sleep Near Cades
- Casona del Nansa is a little off the route, but offers private rooms
Day 2 | Cades – Cabañes
- 18.25 Miles / 29.5 KM | + / – 9 Hours
- Accommodation: Albergue Publico de Cabañes | 15€
- Contact on WhatsApp: +34 696 941 457
Day 2 of the Camino Leganiego is probably one of the most memorable, especially if opt to continue all the way to Cabañes, which is what I did.
Be mindful that the way follows the Carretera for the first 9 miles. The road isn’t busy but the paved road cuts through the mountain and is quite narrow.
This first section follows through the villages of La Venta, Sobrelapeña, and La Fuente. I stopped in La Fuente to take a break which I’m glad I did because in the next village of Burio it’s a steep uphill climb. There is also an Albergue on the outskirts of La Fuente which is supposed to be wonderful Albergue Los Pumares (Lafuente).
🥾 Albergue El Carabo – La Fuente | 6.75 Miles / KM | + / – 2.5 Hours
Continue to follow the markers out of La Fuente towards Burio. It’s a climb, but the views over the village are truly spectacular. Again, in Burio it’s a steep climb through the village, but you are blessed with incredible views and for me it didn’t even matter that you’re still walking on pavement.
The way will continue on the road, but it’s just a short stint until a Camino Lebaniego marker takes you on a gravel path!
🥾 Arrival at Gravel Path from Albergue El Carabo | 9.1 Miles / KM | + / – 3.5 Hours
This is when the day really starts becoming special. On a clear day you’ll have fantastic views of the Picos de Europa and soon you’ll get those first memorable views of the village of Cicera. It’s a gradual descent into Cicera.
🥾 Albergue El Carabo – Cicera | 10.4 Miles / KM | + / – 4 Hours
Cicera
Some pilgrims may feel called to sleep in Cicera. It’s a cute little village with lots of hiking routes nearby. One of the most popular is the hermitage site of Santa Catalina. There are also numerous places to stay and a restaurant.
Places to Stay in Cicera
- Albergue Perigrinos Cicera
- La Posada de la Valuisilla – Bed & Breakfast
- La Valuisilla, Hotel Rural
- El Molino de Cicera
- Browse All of the Places to Sleep in Cicera
Leaving Cicera
I felt called to continue onwards on the Camino Lebaniego. The trail leaves Cicera and follows the trail known as the Canal de Francos. This hiking route is super special! The upward climb goes through an enchanted forest filled with moss, mushrooms, and incredible mountain views.
Be mindful that this is a dirt trail and during periods of heavy rain, I would imagine it to be quite muddy.
The climb continues out of the magic of the forest and becomes a bit more exposed, but the trail is still a mixture of grass and dirt. The views will continue to take your breath away along with the gradual ascent. I enjoyed a picnic lunch near an old water fountain. The water was dripping really slowly and wasn’t treated, so I decided to skip refilling me water bottle.
This water fountain is close the top of the days ascent and soon after this the path is a more gradual descent towards the village of Lebeña.
As you continue onwards, the trail becomes a more gravel road and the descent gets noticeably more steep. Those views are still incredible! The way eventually leads into Lebeña village, a highlight of the Leíbana region and valley.
🥾 Cades – Lebeña | 15. 4 Miles / KM | + / – 7 Hours
🥾 Day 3 Option of Cicera – Lebeña | 5 Miles / KM | + / – 3 Hours
Lebeña
Lebeña has a water fountain and a cafe located near the church. A highlight of visiting Lebaña is visiting the Church of Santa Maria Lebeña. This Pre-Romanesque church was built in 925, but was built onto of a sacred monastery that sat here much before that.
This Pre-Romanesque church was built with the intent to house the remains of Saint Turibius. There is an interesting legend that claims that the counts and followers who tried to move his remains went blind and did not receive their sight back until they moved his relics back to the Monastery of Saint Toribio.
The beautiful church is designed in the Asturias style of pre- Romanesque and Mozarabic architectural styles. It did remind me of pre-Romansque churches near Oviedo of Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo.
Iglesia de Santa Maria Lebeña | Hours: Tues – Sat, 10:00 – 13:30 / 16:00 – 19:30, Open Sunday morning only, closed Mondays | Entrance Fee: 2€, check for discounts with credentials
Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to tour the interior as I walked through the village on a Monday. However, it’s still worth to walk around the exterior and marvel at the structure. Besides the actual church, the surrounding mountains are the perfect backdrop.
Near the church find bathrooms and a small cafe. Look for the fun little self-station, these seem to be popping up along the Camino Lebaniego route.
After that it’s a short skip to Allende, just take precaution crossing the road. There are signboards indicating danger. In the village there are again two routes, on that follows the Rio Robejo ad another that follows the road. It’s best to follow the Rio Robejo to Cabañes, which indicates only 2.1 Km.
Rio Robejo Route
I walked the River path which was fabulous. It traverses next to small waterfalls with fresh water pools and cuts through a forest. There is a split to head into Cabañes or continue further past the the giant chestnut trees.
I took the latter route as it takes you to the outskirts of Cabañes and was closer to the Albergue I was sleeping at. Be careful as the bugs seemed to be pesky in the chestnut forest.
It’s a full but fantastic day to walk from Cades to Cabañes.
Albergue Publico de Cabañes (La Casuca del Perdon)
There are two Albergues in Cabañes and I decided to sleep in the one further into town, Albergue Public de Cabańes. It’s located right next to a church and the hospitalerio is happy to hand over the key to go explore. The nightly fee is 15€. There are no bars or restaurants in Cabañes.
The albergue has hot showers, simple beds, Wi-Fi, a nice outdoor space, and they can do you laundry by machine for a small fee. There is no access to a kitchen, so the shared dinner is a must.
Micky was our hospitalerio and he was a fantastic chef! Communal dinner is 10€ and includes wine, bread, a starter, second, and dessert. It really was one of my best meals on the Camino Lebaniego! He actually made us a lentil soup out of mushrooms he had gathered in the forest.
The Albergue also offers breakfast in the morning for a fee of 5€.
More Places to Sleep in Cabañes
Day 3 | Cabañes – Potes
- 6.25 Miles / 10 KM | + / – 2 Hours
- Accommodation: Municipal Albergue Potes | 5€
Remember that there is a daily mass at the Monastery of Santo Toribio every day at noon. Many pilgrims wish to attend the mass so plan accordingly. The Monastery is outside of Potes and will take around 45 minutes or so to walk to once in Potes.
The walk out of Cabañes is beautiful with the peaks encircling the village and the freshly sheared sheep belted me along. A short distance from Cabañes is the small village Pendes. Don’t miss a chance to sample and purchase mountain cheese from the small cheese shop (Quesería Pendes)! I bought a delicious hunk of Ovieja that lasted me the rest of my Camino journey and beyond.
It’s downhill to follow the river into Potes a very lovely mountain village that makes the list of one of Spain’s most beautiful pueblos. If planning on heading to the Monastery, your first stop should be the Potes Tourist Information Center.
Arriving in Potes & Visiting the Monasterio de Santo Toribio
The Potes Tourist Information Center will give you a stamp and store your large backpack so you can attend the noon mass and visit the sacred site without the extra weight. They were also handing out free bracelets for the Jubilee Year of the Camino Lebaniego.
Potes Tourist Information Center | Find it here: Pl. la Serna | Hours: Daily, 9:30 – 19:00
Make sure to take your credencial with you to the Monastery to obtain the official certificate of the way, the Leganiega.
Follow the way out of Potes to the Monasterio de Santo Toribio. The way has it’s own walkway that follows along the road and then moves to a pedestrian path. On a clear day, you’ll have incredible views of the Picos de Europa.
🥾 Potes – Monasterio de Santo Toribio | 1.75 Miles / 2.8 KM | + / – 45 Minutes
The Significance of Santo Toribio de Liébana
Santo Toribio Monastery is famous for holding one of the largest pieces of the “Lignum Crucis,” or a piece of the true cross that Jesus was crucified on. This is one of the most significant monasteries or Cathedrals on any Camino de Santiago route.
Supposedly the cross was found by St. Helena in Jerusalem in the fourth century. She ordered the cross to be split with one piece staying in Jerusalem, another bering sent to Roman, and another to Constantinople.
During the 5th century, the priest Turibius of Astorga traveled to Jerusalem where he was appointed a position at Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the church where the Lignum Crucis was housed. He returned back to Spain with permission to take a piece of the cross with him. It stayed in Astorga until the eighth century where it was moved to monastery for safe keeping as the Muslim conquest moved north through Spain.
That most peculiar thing is that in a test was done on this piece of wood is over 2,000 years and is a indeed from native cyprus wood from Palestine.
Besides the visiting the small chapel where the Lignum Crucis is housed, it’s possible to visit the cloiser and outside the Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness).
Noon Mass at Monastery of Santo Toribio Liebana
It is free to attend the mass. At the end of mass the piece of Lignum Crucis is removed from it’s small alter and attendees are welcomed to come touch the cross or touch it with their rosary.
I hadn’t planned on attending mass but the man at the pilgrim center suggested it. I went in with little expectations as I am not religious but it was extremely moving. The pastor actually removed the piece of cross from its alter and people were allowed to touch it.
Many people were so emotional and it was as if I could tap into this raw feeling of humanity. It was a mixture of grief and love and sadness and joy. I don’t know if I will ever have the words to explain what I felt or experienced, but it was humbling and an honor to be witness to a deep shared human experience.
La Lebaniega Certificate
Across the main plaza of the monastery is a small Pilgrim Welcome Center. This is where you pick up the Lebaniega Certificate, the certificate for completing the Camino Lebaniego.
The suggested donation for the certificate is 1€ and another 1€ for the protective tube. This is a must if you are continuing onto another Camino route.
Pilgrim Welcome Center at Monasterio de Santo Toribio | Hours: 10:00 – 14:00 / 15:00 – 18:30
Ruta of the Hermitages
After exploring the monastery and grabbing your certificate there is a chance to walk to different chapels and hermitages found along the grounds. They are all mapped out on a poster board near the Pilgrim Welcome Center.
There is no loop per say to visit all the Hermitages, but the map shows the best way to include a visit to each one.
Perhaps the most striking one is Ermita de San Miguel, which also offers a spectacular viewpoint of the Camaleño Valley nearby. I also took the scenic walk to Ermita de Cueva Santa which was said to be Saint Toribio’s retreat. It’s the oldest hermitage on the grounds.
Albergue de Santo Toribio
There is an Albergue next to the monastery that is currently closed. It seems that it is only opened during the busy months on years of the Jubilee. Check here for up to date information.
What to See in Potes Spain
After exploring the Monasterio de Santo Toribio, head back into Potes. There are plenty of things to see in Potes.
Those with the Lebaniego Credencial can visit the iconic Torre del Infantado for free. This tower belonged to the Duke and Duchess of Infantado and today houses the “Beatus of Liébana and his Beatos” Museum. During the middle of the 8th century, Beato was a monk who wrote the “Commentary on the Apocalypse” that went into depths examining the Book of Revelations. In the museum there are also temporary exhibits and a highlight is visiting the viewpoint at the top of the tower.
Do take time to wander the cobblestone streets of Potes. There are lots of nooks and crannies leading to old neighborhoods that look like they haven’t changed over centuries. There are small bridges that cross over the Quiviesa and Deva Rivers and offer up spectacular viewpoints. The whole historical Old Town is a delight to explore.
If you wish to walk even more, the river walk next to Río Quiviesa and the Rio Deva offers a tranquil escape right in the heart of the pueblo.
From all the walking, due delve deep into the regional cuisine. The Picos de Europa region in general is known for hearty stews, unique cheeses, and meats. While Cider (Sidra) is most popular in the Asturias region of the Picos, you will find a few Cider Houses (Siderías) in Potes.
The Municipal Albergue in Potes
The Albergue Municipal of Potes is located in the heart of the city steps away from the Puente de la Cárcel. Look for the steps down near the plaza. It’s positioned along the river and is very typical of a standard Municipal Albergue that you would find on any route.
You will need to have a sleeping bag, there is no Wi-Fi, and the kitchen does not have a stove and is minimally stocked.
No worries, as Potes has lots of spaces within the city with free Wi-Fi. There is an abundance of places to eat, cafes, grocery stores, and laundry facilities. Potes is a hub village for those looking to explore the Picos de Europa National Park, so there is no need to worry about the basic facilities.
- Municipal Albergue
- Pilgrim Beds: 52
- Open: Year Round with the Doors opening at 12:00
- Pilgrim Credencial Required: Yes
More Places to Sleep in Potes
Some pilgrims want to relax and enjoy Potes. Remember, if you want to stay an extra day or two in Potes, you must move to a private room. These are some of the top places to stay in Potes.
- Hotel Casa Cayo
- Hostería Picos de Europa
- Hostería La Antigua
- Hosteria Sierra del Oso
- Hotel Valdecoro
➜ Browse All the Best Places to Stay in Potes Cantabria
My Personal Budget for the Camino Lebaniego
So how much did the Camino Lebaniego cost? This Camino route took me 3 days and I stayed in simple Albergues in shared rooms along the entire route. There are fewer services on this route, so communal meals are a must.
I included my expenses for my zero day in San Vicente de la Barquera. This includes a night in the Nomada Hostel and food supplies. This Camino Lebaniego budgets spans over 4 days.
There are also very limited services to stop for coffee or meals outside the albergue or accommodation options until you arrive in Potes. So while the albergues were a little more expensive than most routes, there really are no daily expenses outside of the albergue and meals.
I walked the Camino Lebaniego in September 2024.
| Expenses | Euro (€) |
| Accommodation (Albergues) | €62 |
| Meals (Mostly Communal) | €31 |
| Groceries | €27.50 |
| Snacks & Beverages | €18.50 |
| Laundry | €6 |
| Donativo (Certificate & Tube) | €2 |
| Total | €147 |
The three days walking the Camino Lebaniego with the night in San Vicente de la Barquera the night before cost me around €147. Over four days, this averages to around €36.75 per day. I saved money by staying in the Albergues and not opting for private rooms.
Remember, the only food options are really at the Albergues in the communal dinners until you arrive at Potes.
If you stay an extra night in Potes, you must move into a private room, so it will increase expenses.
After walking to Potes, you may need to rejoin the Camino del Norte by taking a morning bus back to Muñorrodero. Alternatively, you could continue on one of the different Camino routes.
The three main routes that rejoin the Camino Frances: Camino Castellano (Carrion de los Condes but finishes in Palencina), Camino Leones (Sahagun), and the Camino Vadiniense (Mansilla de las Mulas).
There is also a route, the Camino Lebaniego Asturiano, that leads pilgrims to Oviedo to walk the Camino Primitivo into Santiago de Compostela.
Tips for Continuing Onwards on the Camino Vadiniense
I chose to walk the Camino Vadiniense that heads out of the Picos de Europa and rejoins the Camino Frances in Mansilla de las Mulas. This route is typically walked over 6 – 7 days and is named after the tribes who lived in the foothills of the Picos de Europa before the Roman Conquest.
I followed the Camino Vadiniense into one of my favorite cities on the Camino Frances, Leon.
It’s worth noting that the route between Potes and Mansillas de las Mulas sees very few pilgrims and reservations are a must in some stages. Services are even more limited on the Camino Vadiniense than on the Camino Lebaniego.
There are also fewer Camino markers so an offline map is essential. I also found route information hard to come by, so I’ll share some of my best tips on this little trekked Camino route.
On the Camino Vadiniense, be prepared for a lonely road with hardly any pilgrims. That being said, this is a beautiful and untouched Camino route with many challenges. Those who undertake it will be rewarded with solitude and a deep appreciation for the lost tribes who called this area home and some of the last to resist the Roman conquest.
Coming Soon: My Complete Guide to the Camino Vadiniense
Conclusion | Final Thoughts on the Camino Lebaniego Route
In conclusion, this is my ultimate planning and walking guide to the Camino Lebaniego. This spectacular Camino route leads pilgrims from the sea of the Camino del Norte to the foothills of the incredible Picos de Europa National Park.
This Camino route ends at the holy site of Monasterio de Santo Toribio. The Monastery is a sacred place in Spain as it is said to hold one of the largest pieces of true cross.
The Camino Lebaniego is a rewarding way that sees few pilgrims. This complete guide includes my best tips, tools, alongside my personal route and budget. No matter how you walk the Camino Lebaniego I wish for you a Buen Camino!
Did you walk the Camino Lebaniego? Are there any updates I should know about for this planning guide? Did you love the way as much as I did? Let me know in the comments below!
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