Camino Vadiniense A Diverse Path of Vadinian Tribes, Roman Conquest, and Sacred Monasteries
After I completed the Camino Lebaniego, I continued along the Camino Vadiniense to rejoin the Camino Frances.
This is a beautiful and untouched Camino with many challenges. The Camino Vadiniense skirts along the foothills of the Picos de Europa and then follows ancient Roman Roads into León. Those who undertake it will be rewarded with solitude and a deep appreciation for the lost tribes of “the Vadinians,” who called this area home and were some of the last to resist the Roman conquest.
Once you leave the foothills of the jagged peaks of the Picos de Europa, you’ll begin to see the impact the Romans had on this area. Along the Esla River you’ll follow an old Roman Road and then at the door steps of the fascinating chapels along the “La Ruta de los Monasterios.”
This quiet Camino route is typically walked over 6 – 8 days. Vadiniense refers to the tribes who lived in the foothills of the Picos de Europa before the Roman Conquest.
The Camino Vadiniense begins after departing Potes. Rejoin the Camino Frances in either Mansilla de las Mulas or Puente Vallarente.
This Camino Vadiniense guide includes helpful tools for planning this lesser-known route, typical Camino Vadiniense stages and distances, my personal Camino Vadiniense route and tips, and my budget for walking the route over 6 days.
Here’s the ultimate guide to the Camino Vadiniense, a route for those looking for an off-beat Camino adventure.
Table of Contents
- Overview of the Camino Vadiniense
- Things to Do Before Walking the Camino Vadiniense
- Useful Planning Tools for the Camino Vadiniense
- Typical Camino Vadiniense Stages & Distances
- My Personal Camino Vadiniense Route & Tips
- Where Does the Camino Vadiniense End?
- A Note About the Camino Vadiniense Certificate
- My Camino Vadiniense Budget
- Conclusion | Final Thoughts on the Camino Vadiniense Route
Overview of the Camino Vadiniense
This is a basic overview of how to plan for the Camino Vadiniense, which can be walked after the completion of the Camino Lebaniego. The Camino Lebaniego is a detour route from the Camino del Norte, or it can be completed as a separate and independent Camino route.
The Camino Vadiniense is typically walked over seven days, depending on physical abilities. The route begins from the mountain village of Potes, found in the Cantabrian region of the Picos de Europa National Park.
This Camino route won’t be for everyone as the daily walking stages are longer, there are no bag transfer services, and services like cafes and tiendas are nearly non-existent until the route merges closer to the Camino Frances.
This Camino route is typically combined with the Camino Lebaniego, which has its own credencial. If walking the Camino Lebaniego, I highly recommend stopping to pick up this credencial in San Vicente de la Barquera.
The Camino Vadiniense route is popular in the summer months of June-August, and as it continues to gain popularity, it will become even busier. The shoulder months of April, May, September, and October are nice, too, with fewer pilgrims walking and hit-and-miss weather. The Picos de Europa do get snow, so it’s best to be mindful of the current weather conditions.
Quite a few of the Albergues are open to both pilgrims and local hikers looking to experience the best of the Picos de Europa. At some stages, it’s essential to book in advance. Even in the winter months, the albergues can open for those enjoying the skiing season.
I walked the Camino Lebaniego and Vadiniense in September and had fairly nice weather. At this time, I saw zero pilgrims on the Vadiniense, but many spaces in the hostels and rooms were filled with local hikers. I did message Albergues a day or two in advance to guarantee a room where there was not a municipal albergue.
On this route, there are only Municipal Albergues in Potes, Cistierna, and Gradefes. All other stopping points, you will have to rely on private albergues, private rooms, and hotels. As you have to rely more on private lodgings, this route can be more expensive, especially for solo pilgrims.
Things to Do Before Walking the Camino Vadiniense
Most people will join the Camino Lebaniego and Vadiniense together. Most pilgrims will sleep in Potes before beginning on the Camino Vadiniense.
Places to Sleep in Potes Before Departure
There is a Municipal Albergue in Potes available for pilgrims walking the Camino Lebaniego and Vadiniense. This is a typical Public Albergue where you will need a sleeping bag and a pilgrim credencial.
- Potes Municipal Albergue
- Find it Here: steps away from the Puente la Cárcel
- Pilgrim Beds: 52
- Open: Year Round with the Doors opening at 12:00
- Pilgrim Credencial Required: Yes
‼️ As of May 2025, the Potes Municipal Albergue is temporarily closed
Some pilgrims want to relax and enjoy Potes. Remember, if you want to stay an extra day or two in Potes, you must move to a private room. The Public Albergue only allows pilgrims to sleep one night at their facilities. These are some of the top places to stay in Potes.
- Hotel Casa Cayo
- Hostería Picos de Europa
- Hostería La Antigua
- Hosteria Sierra del Oso
- Hotel Valdecoro
➜ Browse All the Best Places to Stay in Potes Cantabria
1 | Decide How Many Days You Want to Walk the Camino Vadiniense & Contact Albergues Before Walking
Typically, the Camino Vadiniense is walked in 7 stages. I walked the Camino Vadiniense over 6 days, and I put in some long-distance days, even continuing to Leon on my final day.
If you plan on walking over the weekend, make sure you contact the Albergues on the Camino Vadiniense stages at least a week in advance. Many of the albergues are filled with tourists looking to hike the lower mountains of the Picos de Europa. On the weekends, these albergues are typically full, especially in the peak summer months. I even ran into booking issues during September.
There are limited spaces to sleep in the villages of Espinama, Portilla de la Reina, and Riaño.
⁉️ These stages MUST be booked in advance during the high season. Booking ahead is almost essential on this route
Stages that have Municipal Albergue, like in Cistierna and Gradefes, should also be contacted in advance because they are only run by volunteers who show up to take payment.
Many of the Private Albergues are found on Booking.com or can be contacted via WhatsApp.
It is no fun to be scrambling to find lodging in the mountains. Plan accordingly, especially for the stages of Espinama, Portilla de la Reina (two lodging options to sleep), and Riaño.
2 | Use an ATM, Replenish Supplies, Do Laundry
It’s a good idea to replenish cash and supplies in Potes before departing on the Camino Vadiniense. Potes also has a few laundry facilities if you’ve had bad weather or haven’t found it possible to dry clothing.
Don’t bother carrying any food items that need to be cooked on the stovetop. On the Camino Vadiniense, there are no hostels or Albergues with a stove, most only offer a microwave. I didn’t see a stovetop until Gradefes, but by that time I had abandoned the weight of groceries that required cooking.
Be mindful that some places you can only eat in the restaurant, like in Portilla de Reina.
There are no ATMS until Riaño. If you stay at the Albergue Portilla de la Reina, be mindful that they do not accept cards! Most albergues only accept cash payments or wire transfers from Spanish bank accounts.
3 | Double Check Your Camino Packing List
Since most pilgrims typically add on the Camino Vadiniense from their Camino route, they won’t necessarily need to worry or alter their current Camino packing list. As this is more of a mountain route and the weather can change, I suggest leaning somewhere between a standard Camino packing list and my Winter Camino packing list.
That being said, I found myself packing a little differently for this Camino route as it is more mountainous, services are more limited, and the nights can be cold.
Make sure to carry a sleeping bag. I love my Sea to Summit Spark Sleeping Bag. The Sea to Summit Spark 30F Down Sleeping Bag is good if you sleep cold, or the Spark 45F Down Sleeping Bag if you sleep warm.
I also swapped out my favorite Camino shoes from Altra Lone Peaks for my more sturdy mountain shoes La Sportiva TX4 Approach Shoes. This was also because I planned on hiking in the Picos de Europa after my Camino.
I brought a lightweight wool sweater for the nights and this packable down jacket from REI. A rain jacket is also essential, and I wore mine for cool and breezy mornings and, of course, a rainy day in the mountains. I had one terrible rainy day and was so thankful that I had warm dry clothes to change into afterwards.
The terrain is definitely rocky with steeper ascents and descents so hiking poles can be handy. Some forest sections can also be overgrown so I preferred my hiking pants compared to my Dry on the Fly 7″ hiking shorts.
I also carried four pairs of wool socks. I like both SmartWool and DarnTough and carried a mixture of different styles and thicknesses. In addition, I carried an extra pair of underwear because I knew laundry would be tough to keep up with.
I was still able to fit everything in my Osprey Kyte 36L Backpack. They have discontinued this backpack but now offer the Kyte 38 L Pack or something similar is the Sirrus 34 Pack. One of the best Camino tips I can offer is to have your backpack fitted at a gear store by a professional.
4 | Pick up the La Lebaniega Certificate (If You Walked the Camino Lebaniego)
Across the main plaza of the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liebana is a small Pilgrim Welcome Center. This is where you pick up the Lebaniega Certificate, the certificate for completing the Camino Lebaniego.
The suggested donation for the certificate is 1€ and another 1€ for the protective tube. This is a must if you are continuing onto the Camino Vadiniense.
Pilgrim Welcome Center at Monasterio de Santo Toribio | Hours: 10:00 – 14:00 / 15:00 – 18:30
5 | Enjoy Beautiful Potes Pueblo
There are plenty of things to see in Potes.
Those with the Lebaniego Credencial can visit the iconic Torre del Infantado for free. This tower belonged to the Duke and Duchess of Infantado and today houses the “Beatus of Liébana and his Beatos” Museum. During the middle of the 8th century, Beato was a monk who wrote the “Commentary on the Apocalypse” that went into depths examining the Book of Revelations. In the museum, there are also temporary exhibits, and a highlight is visiting the viewpoint at the top of the tower.
Do take time to wander the cobblestone streets of Potes. There are lots of nooks and crannies leading to old neighborhoods that look like they haven’t changed over centuries. There are small bridges that cross over the Quiviesa and Deva Rivers and offer spectacular viewpoints. The whole historical Old Town is a delight to explore.
If you wish to walk even more, the river walk next to Río Quiviesa and the Rio Deva offers a tranquil escape right in the heart of the pueblo.
From all the walking, due dive deep into the regional cuisine. The Picos de Europa region, in general, is known for hearty stews, unique cheeses, and meats. While Cider (Sidra) is most popular in the Asturias region of the Picos, you will find a few Cider Houses (Siderías) in Potes.
Useful Planning Tools for the Camino Vadiniense
As this Camino route isn’t as well-traveled, there aren’t any great and detailed guidebooks. I found official maps and information only in Riaño (two days into the walk).
If you don’t want to carry a guidebook, Gronze has a lot of the information and routes on their Camino Lebaniego / Vadiniense Route.
- Booking.com is an excellent resource for booking private albergues, casa rurals, pensions, and accommodations along the route. I often check the habitation review before booking.
- Maps.me is a great offline map and I used it on this route a lot more than I thought I would
- I record all my routes with Wikiloc and did find some helpful routes to export out.
- There is a Camino Lebaniego & Vadiniense Facebook Page that has some up-to-date information
- I also like to check in on the Camino Forums and search Camino Vadiniense
- WhatsApp is essential for contacting Albergues to book in advance, unless you get a Spanish SimCard before hand.
Typical Camino Vadiniense Stages & Distances
The most popular way to walk the Camino Vadiniense is over 7 days. However, there is no budget accomodation in Crémenes, so some pilgrims decide to combine the stage from Riaño to Cistierna. I ended up doing this and was glad I did.
The Camino Vadiniense is fairly well-marked with a combination of yellow arrows, and it also has its own marking of a horse with a cross in the colors of teal and yellow. These official markers are less prevalent than the yellow arrows.
If you see the red arrows, those lead you back to Potes and the Camino Lebaniego.
The Camino Vadiniense sees many fewer pilgrims than the Camino Lebaniego. I never saw a single pilgrim walking from Potes until I merged on the Camino Frances in Mansilla de las Mulas. This is definitely a quiet route and is better suited for those who feel comfortable walking alone in the foothills of the mountains.
Official Camino Vadiniense Stages & Distances in 7 Days
The official route states that the Vadiniense Route is from Potes to Mansilla de las Mulas and is a distance of 153.85 KM (95.6 miles). There are official distances and hours from the Camino Vadiniense website compiled by the Association of Friends of the Camino de Santiago Ruta Vadiniense
- Stage 1 | Potes – Fuente Dé | 14.9 Miles / 24.01 KM | 9 Hours
- Stage 2 | Fuente Dé- Portilla de la Reina | 15.25 Miles / 24.57 KM | 7 Hours
- Stage 3 | Portilla – Riaño | 13 Miles / 21.03 KM | 5 Hours
- Stage 4 | Riaño – Crémenes | 12.25 Miles / 19.7 KM | 5 Hours
- Stage 5 | Crémenes – Cistierna | 10.3 Miles / 16.6 KM | 5 Hours
- Stage 6 | Cistierna – Gradefes | 14.7 Miles / 23.65 KM | 6 Hours
- Stage 7 | Gradefes – Mansilla de las Mulas | 15.1 Miles / 24.3 KM | 6 Hours
It seems like the official Vadiniense may have recently combined Stage 4 & 5, making the stage from Riaño to Cistierna 36.29 KM (22.55 Miles).
Alternatively, some people want to hike in the high mountains of the Picos de Europa, so they spend an extra night in Espinama or Fuente Dé.
This Most Important Advice on Walking Any Camino Route
Remember, the Camino is all about the journey and not the destination. There is no right or wrong way to walk the Camino. Let go of judgments of yourself and others as you walk. It’s the best way.
Always walk your own journey, stay on the trail, listen to your body, and let the magic of the way unfold before your eyes.
Show kindness to fellow pilgrims by wishing them a “buen camino,” which means good walk, good way, or good path. It’s the common greeting along the way.
Always walk your own Camino, on this journey, and in your life.
My Personal Camino Vadiniense Route
I decided to walk the Camino Vadiniense by following the typical 6-day route, but instead, I ended my route in León. I don’t recommend this, but mentally I was already in a larger city to continue on with my plans.
However, I would recommend sleeping in the small village of Puente de Villarente, which is a little after Mansilla de las Mulas and before León on the Camino Frances.
I stayed in Puente de Villarente on my first Camino Frances and can recommend the lovely Albergue San Pelayo.
- Stage 1 | Potes – Espinama | 14.5 Miles / 23.3 KM | 7.5 Hours
- Stage 2 | Espinama- Portilla de la Reina | 14.5 Miles / 23.3 KM | 6 Hours (Bad Weather)
- Stage 3 | Portilla – Riaño | 12.8 Miles / 20.6 KM | 4.5 Hours
- Stage 4 | Riaño – Cistierna | 22.5 Miles / 36.5 KM | 9.5 Hours
- Stage 5 | Cistierna – Gradefes | 14.3 Miles / 23 KM | 5 Hours
- Stage 6 | Gradefes – León | 25.75 Miles / 41.5 KM | 9 Hours
That puts my Camino Vadiniense at 96.6 Miles / 155.5 KM from Potes to Puente Villarente. I continued on to León, which is an extra 7.75 miles, so in total I walked almost 104.5 miles.
🥾 My Camino Lebaniego & Vadiniense Stats | Distance: 137.6 Miles / 221.5 KM | Days: 9 Walking Days (3 on Lebaniego & 6 on Vadiniense )
Day 1 | Potes – Espinama
- Day 4 of Walking from the Camino Lebaniego
- 14.5 Miles / 23.3 KM | + / – 7.5 Hours
- Accommodation: Albergue Briz | 20€
Skip to: Stage 2 | Stage 3 | Stage 4 | Stage 5 | Stage 6
It’s a beautiful walking day through little pueblos with the Picos in the backdrop.
I took my time as I had a room reserved in Espinama. Rooms have been hard to find with the season in the mountains ending soon. It’s essential to book a reservation in Espinama or the nearby village of Fuente De. These are both popular villages to base for hiking in the high mountains of the Picos, or take the cable car from Fuente De.
As I left the Potes Municipal Albergue, I had to walk out to the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liebana again. This is where you pick up the route to begin the Camino Vadiniense.
Walk up to the Ermita de San Miguel, where there is a mirador. The trail starts to the left of the viewpoint. Head towards the villages of Congarna.
The route zigzags and kind of follows along the Deva River, although there will be times you can’t always see it. It’s a gradual uphill ascent for most of the day. There are many places to stop and relax, and fountains to refill water from the tiny Pueblos.
San Pelayo has the Albergue La Vargona. It’s one of the more “larger pueblos.” The next is Redo with a nice fountain right on the path to refill water. The next village is Mogrovejo, which is worth a short stop.
🥾 Potes – Mogrovejo | Distance: 7 Miles / 11.25 KM | Duration: +/- 3.5 Hours
Mogrovejo is super cute and is officially included as one of Spain’s most beautiful Pueblos. It has an iconic tower that you can’t climb up, but it’s nice to walk past it and take some photos.
Life moves slowly here, and it is a good place simply to relax. There are two cafes and a bar. There is also a local rural school museum, which you can visit for 2 Euros. There are a few options for sleeping in Mogrovejo.
From Mogrovejo, it’s a long downhill stroll on the road, but I watched some mountain climbers scale the mountain in front of me as I descended on the road.
In Los Llanos, there’s a car park, and it’s going to be a gradual climb for the rest of the day. A mixture of road and lovely forest paths.
I grabbed a bite in Arenos and was thankful for that because the next leg is a steep climb. You’ll begin to see signs that welcome you to the Picos de Europa.
Follow the arrows until near the village of Las Ilces. Here, take the steep PR-PNPE-26, Espinama por Rio Deva, Hayedo de las Ilces. Look for a yellow arrow leading the way. The route arrives at Espinama, where I slept in Albergue Briz.
Albergue Briz
Albergue Briz is a budget-friendly place to sleep that caters to those hiking in the Picos de Europa. There is a nice garden and a shared room with bunk beds. Find a drying line, WiFi, and a large kitchen/dining room with a barbecue. The owner is super kind and helpful.
In Espinama, there are few restaurant options and a small supermarket.
More Places in Espinama
➜ Hostal Remoña offers private rooms at a reasonable price.
➜ Posada Sobrevilla has private rooms and an onsite restaurant and is a popular place to stay in Espinama
➜ Posada Maximo offers rustic rooms at a budget price with an onsite restaurant.
➜ Browse all the Places to Sleep in Espinama
Or Continue to Fuente Dé
The official Camino Vadiniense actually continues to Fuente Dé. I had already been to Fuente De a few years back to ride the cable car and hike in the mountains. Unfortunately, I had terrible weather once I arrived in Espinama, so I did not visit Fuente De this time.
🥾 Espinama to Fuente Dé is around 4.5 KM / 2.8 miles
Those who have an extra day can take a “rest day” to ride the cable car or take one of the hikes in the high mountains. This was my original plan, but again, the weather decided against it for me.
The most popular place to sleep in Fuente Dé, is the Parador de Fuente Dé
➜ Hotel Rebeco is another place to stay in Fuente Dé
Day 2 | Espinama – Portilla de la Reina
- Day 5 of Walking with the Camino Lebaniego
- 14.5 Miles / 23.3 KM | + / – 6 Hours
- Accommodation: Albergue De Portilla | 58€ / Food Cost Separate
The rain started and didn’t stop all day. I would have been miserable hiking in the high mountains of the Picos for the day because there was zero visibility.
I’ve been blessed with amazing weather, so I can’t be upset with one rainy day. It’s just life. Some days are all sunshine, and other days it rains and doesn’t stop.
Again, I skipped Fuente Dé and took the shorter path through Pido and onto the small cluster of shelters named Invernales de las Berrugas. Here is where it meets up with the official route.
🥾 Espinama – Invernales de las Berrugas | Distance: 2.5 Miles / 4 KM | Duration: +/- 1 Hour
This section then leads way to one of the most stunning sections of the Camino Vadienense, a view of green meadows and limestone mountains. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see much of anything and continued through the clouds and drizzle. It was still beautiful as there were moments when the fog would lift a bit and I could see outlines of the mountains. I could also hear all the cows grazing in the green fields.
Somewhere between here and Horcada de Valcavao, we hike from the Cantabrian region of Spain into Castile & León.
Today was tough mentally. There are no services and no place to take a break from the weather. It was cold, wet, and a challenge.
The highest mountain pass of the day is at Horcada de Valcavao (5,874 ft / 1,790 m). There’s a parking lot and you’ll start on the long, gradual downhill all the way to Portilla de Reina.
🥾 Espinama – Horcada de Valcavao | Distance: 6.4 Miles / 10.3 KM | Duration: +/- 3 Hours
On a clear day, you can enjoy spectacular views, and there’s a small traditional shepherd’s hut nearby.
There’s another viewpoint and waypoint at Puerto de Pandetrave (8.8 miles in). Again, I couldn’t see much. Follow the road, and then you can look for the alternative paths. Otherwise, it’s a slow and gradual descent into Portilla de la Reina on the carretera.
I took a few of the alternative paths to avoid the main road, but some were not very well marked, and it was wet. Almost all of these alternative paths are grass pathways, so my shoes were soaked.
Still, it was nice to take a break from the carterra and my shoes were wet anyway from the day.
Some park rangers stopped and saw me sopping wet on the road and offered me a ride. At this point, I only had an hour left or so to walk, so I thanked them but continued. My stubbornness was in full force.
Portilla de la Reina is a stage where you MUST book your room in advance because the lodging options are so limited.
I arrived quickly in Portilla de la Reina even though the first part of the day was a steep uphill. I didn’t take breaks, and I was welcomed warmly and just in time for lunch!
Be mindful that the restaurant does not allow credit card payments, so make sure to have cash. I also booked my room online, so I didn’t have to worry about having enough cash for the room.
Portilla de la Reina only has one other restaurant and a few more private accommodation options. The whole village is pretty much one street. If you have a clear day, you can hike up to the Mirador de Portilla de La Reina.
Albergue de Portilla
The Albergue de Portilla is more of a cozy, family-run hotel. There is an onsite restaurant and only private rooms with private baths. The owners are super friendly, and the rooms are clean.
The Albergue also offers breakfast in the morning for 5€.
The only other accommodation options in Portilla de la Reina
➜ Casa Rural El Invernal de Picos
Day 3 | Portilla de la Reina – Riaño
- Day 6 of Walking with the Camino Lebaniego
- 12.8 Miles / 20.6 KM | + / – 4.5 Hours
- Accommodation: Everything was booked, so I stayed in a private room via a referal (50€)
Today was short and started on the carretera. I didn’t care because it was cool and the sun was shining. I was just so happy to see everything around me and to be dry. Thank goodness for that hairdryer in my room last night!
As soon as I left, I saw Chamois up on the mountaintop. That was super special.
It’s also mostly a gradual downhill today.
After 5 miles, I came to the first pueblo of the day, Barniedo de la Reina. From here, you twist through a handful of small villages on an earth path until Boca de Huérgano. There are sections that follow along the river, too.
Entering the village, I could smell fresh bread baking and sure enough saw a bakery. I grabbed a fresh treat and continued to a small bar for a coffee. Boca de Huérgano has all the services, including a pharmacy.
🥾 Portilla – Boca de Huérgano | Distance: 7.5 Miles / 12 KM | Duration: +/- 2.5 Hours
Leaving Boca de Huérgano, you pass by a small church, and then it’s back to the carretera. This part was a little sketchy as it was so busy with motorcyclists. There is no walkway really, so you must walk with motorcyclists zipping by, farm equipment, and cars. However, once you get those first views of Riaño it’s so worth it.
Riaño welcomes pilgrims with a signboard and lovely stroll to the village center.
I had been here on my first trip to the Picos, but again I pulled in late, and it was so rainy I couldn’t see the iconic mountains or anything for that matter. Everything was covered in low-hanging clouds.
This time, upon my arrival, I was literally blown away by the beauty of Riaño.
What to See in Riaño
Riaño is interesting because the old town is actually underwater, along with eight other villages. In 1986, over six months, the towns were destroyed, and what we see now is the reservoir.
Today, Riaño is kind of reminiscent of the Alps. They even have a “distant relative” of Heidi who is their poster girl. My day was pretty short, so I went and visited two viewpoints: one with a giant swing and another with a giant heart. Both viewpoints are incredible, and I saw horses grazing on my way up to the viewpoints.
Riaño can also be tricky to stay in because lots of people visit the viewpoints or indulge in the local cuisine. There are quite a few restaurants, cafes, and bars in Riaño. This village is also part of the Parque Regional Montaña de Riaño y Mampodre, which boasts over 32 different hiking trails.
Where to Stay in Riaño
There are lots of accommodation options in Riaño, but a lot are private apartments. Everything was so booked up that Camping de Riaño referred me to a local woman who offered a beautiful room in her apartment with a private bathroom for 50 Euros.
Places to Stay in Riaño
➜ Browse All the Accommodation Options in Riaño
Day 4 | Riaño – Cistierna
- Day 7 of Walking with the Camino Lebaniego
- 22.5 Miles / 36.5 KM | + / – 9.5 Hours
- Accommodation: Cistierna Municipal Albergue | 12€
I combined two stages in one because I wanted to stay at the Cistierna Municipal Albergue. I lucked out with mostly beautiful weather and appreciated the quite different landscapes. I could feel the difference in the air and temperature as I made my way out of the higher mountains.
I was thankful for the coffee stand that was open early in Riaño so I could grab a cup of coffee for my early start.
Riaño looked as it did when I visited a few years ago, completely covered in clouds. There are two different routes as you leave Riaño. One follows the carretera while the other one cuts through the mountains. The woman at the Tourist Information Center told me to stick to the road, but there was so much fog, and with how fast people were zipping down the road yesterday, I took my chances in the forest.
There really isn’t much information on the por camino route (mountain) vs. the carretera. The mountain path was a nice dirt out, and I was relieved to see it was a different uphill route vs. the intense mountain climb to the peak. However, I had to check in with my offline map more than I wanted to. You can tell they are modifying the path.
Keep your eyes peeled for wooden signboards that point in the direction of Horcades.
It was really quiet and I missed those mountain peaks views, but the fog in the forest was eerie yet comforting. Follow the dirt path all the way to Horcades village.
🥾 Riaño por Camino – Horcades | Distance: 4 Miles / 6.4 KM | Duration: +/- 1.5 Hours
After Horcades, the fog started to lift, and I could get my final views of the reservoir before walking through the tunnel. Follow the road to the tunnel. Once in the tunnel, stick to the left, or you may miss the next tunnel down to avoid the long road stint.
A lot of this walk is trust, as in trusting there will be an arrow to point you in the right direction.
After the tunnel, it’s a pretty gradual downhill via road and then onto an earth path that follows along the Rio Esla. There are benches along the way with little poems. I had to be conscious of my time, so I couldn’t relax too much.
This path takes us to the village of Las Salas. There’s no need to go to the village, you’ll follow the path to Cremes. There’s a mixture of markers and signboards with PR LE-36 Camino Real and the official route name for the Calzada Romana del Esla (Roman Road of Esla).
Some people may choose to stop in Crémenes. There are three places to stay in town.
➜ Hostal Huelde
🥾 Riaño por Camino – Cremes | Distance: 12 Miles / 19.3 KM | Duration: +/- 4.5 Hours
I continued onward towards Cistierna. Keep following the Elsa River and the incredible Roman Road of Esla. Remeber, those Roman Roads can be hard on the knees. Those old stones run deep.
The old Roman road follows the hillside, and you can actually see many of the old boundaries of the road. This was one of my favorite sections. The El Pajar del Diablo is the most iconic landmark of this section.
The Roman Road leads to Valdoré with the popular place to sleep: Hostal Ventasierra. The accomodation was full here, so I just stopped in for a quick drink.
🥾 Riaño por Camino – Valdoré | Distance: 15 Miles / 24.15 KM | Duration: +/- 6 Hours
The path still follows the river, and the lower mountain views are nice. Some sections are forest, and others are right alongside the river. It’s been so quiet, and I haven’t seen a pilgrim since Potes.
There are a few villages to pass by, and I did stop near a park to soak my feet in the river. It was really hot.
There is a section that crosses pilgrims through an old abandoned mine with buildings now littered in graffiti. There is absolutely no shade coverage through this section.
To reach Cistierna, you must cross the waterway canal and then follow the old mining tracks that brought life to the village. This town is on the “Forgotten Way,” but again, I was the only pilgrim in the Albergue.
There are plenty of supermarkets and places to eat in town. The Albergue in town is near the Ayuntamiento de Cistierna. If you can’t contact the volunteers, there are a few places to stay in Cistierna.
Municipal Albergue of Cistierna
The Municipal Albergue of Cistierna has a list of volunteers with their phone numbers. I simply messaged them on WhatsApp and utilized the free wifi in the plaza near the town hall. You must purchase the 2€ disposable sheets.
This is a very barebones albergue. Find bunkbeds, bathrooms, and the kitchen has only a microwave and a fridge.
Day 5 | Cistierna – Gradefes
- Day 8 of Walking with the Camino Lebaniego
- 14.3 Miles / 23.01 KM | + / – 5 Hours
- Accommodation: Municipal Albergue Gradefes | 10€
A short and sweet day. The route follows a mixture of forest and farmland with stops in small villages with no services. Make sure to have food for the Albergue in Gradefes.
I saw a sign in Spanish that reads… Now, we leave the mountains behind us, and I felt a twinge of sadness.
It was mostly flat, so I made great timing. Even with sleeping in, I made it to my destination earlier than I expected.
At one point, it felt like I could be hiking anywhere in Wisconsin. I passed by tractors, dairy cows, and even cattails blooming near the water source. I saw many sunflower fields, but many of them were past season and dying.
I arrived in Gradefes at a festival in the Monastery. The small town was busy, and I saw buses moving people to and from. The Monastery is definitely worth a visit, and there are only two bars in town and no grocery stores.
Monasterio de Santa María la Real (Gradefes)
I went to visit the 12th-century Monastery in Gradefes. It’s a really impressive Romanesque Church and it’s free for pilgrims. Simply show your credencial and enjoy.
Don’t miss the outdoor space to check out the designs on the pillars.
Gradefes Albergue
The Gradefes Albergue is a little outside of town. Don’t walk all the way there without stopping in at the bar on the right-hand side of the street (Bar La Flor del Esla). This is where you register and get the albergue key.
This is a super nice albergue with a full kitchen! This was the only albergue on the Camino Vadiniense with a stove! They also had sheets and a washer. This albergue is a steal for only 5 Euros a night!
Day 6 | Gradefes – Puente de Villarente (Via Ruins Alternative Path)
- Day 9 of Walking with the Camino Lebaniego
- 18 Miles / 29 KM | + / – 6 Hours
- Accommodation: Albergue San Pelayo in Villarente (Suggested)
- I slept at Quartier Leon Hostel Jabalquinto in León.
Again, the way passes through farmland. It was easy to lose the signals, as many of them were covered by overgrowth. I lost some timing and added some extra steps. Be really mindful of the waymarkers.
There are absolutely no services, and I should have loaded up on food in Cistierna.
A notable stop on the way is the Monasterio de San Miguel de Escalada. This is said to be one of the most impressive chapels on the Camino de Santiago. The interior is supposed to be incredible, but it was Monday, so it was closed. I ate the rest of my chocolate and continued onwards.
🥾 Gradefes – San Miguel de Escalada | Distance: 7 Miles / 11.25 KM | Duration: +/- 2 Hours
Most pilgrims continue to Mansilla del las Mulas, which is part of the Camino Frances. Mansilla de las Mulas is a popular daily stage end point, so there are plenty of places to sleep.
However, I opted to take an alternative route towards the ruins of Monasterio de San Pedro de Eslonza. The path is lonely and bypasses Mansilla de las Mulas to rejoin the Camino Frances near Punte Villarente.
This is an alternative route to savor those stunning far-off distant views of the mountains near León. These mountains led me along the Camino de San Salvador, so it was nice to see them from a different angle.
There really isn’t much left of the old monastery, but I quite enjoyed the views walking into the village. There was also a bar nearby, but it was closed.
After the Monasterio de San Pedro de Eslonza, I followed a path with more awesome views of the nearby mountains.
The landscape is really quite different. It’s strange to have gone from the sea and estuary to the mountains to the dustiness of the plateau. It is beautiful in its own way.
I officially joined the Camino Frances in the village of Puente Villarente. I stayed in this village when I walked the Camino Frances in 2022. I stayed here as part of my Camino Frances at the Albergue San Pelayo.
If you plan on staying here, it’s best to book in advance, or you’ll have to continue to Arcahueja (4.4 KM farther and only one hotel: Hotel Camino Real) or continue to Leon.
Option to Continue to Leon
Mentally, I was already in Leon, so I decided to push through. I don’t recommend this option for most, as it’s a super long day. Also, by the time you arrive in Puente Villarente, it’s mid-afternoon, so the final push to León is without much shade coverage. On a sunny day, it’s a hot and can be a rough stretch.
This is my route from Villarente to Leon on the Camino Frances.
I knew the way to Leon and decided to walk the almost 8 miles to the city center. I absolutely love León with its many albergues, lively tapas scene, museums, and history.
This is my best guide for pilgrims in León.
🥾 Gradefes – León | Distance: 25.75 Miles / 41.5 KM | Duration: +/- 9 Hours
Where Does the Camino Vadiniense End?
No matter what alternative route you choose, the Camino Vadiniense rejoins the Camino Frances.
Mansilla de las Mulas
The most common ending point is Mansilla de las Mulas, where it merges with the Camino Frances.
There is a Municipal Albergue in Mansialla de las Mulas and a few other sleeping accomodations.
The official route states that the Vadiniense Route is from Potes to Mansilla de las Mulas and is a distance of 153.85 KM (95.6 miles)
Puente Villarente
Puente Villarente is around 6.1 KM (3.8 miles) from Mansilla de las Mulas on the Camino Frances. So if you rejoined the Camino Frances at Mansilla, you can continue to Puente Villarente on the Camino Frances.
As I detoured towards the ruins of Monasterio de San Pedro de Eslonza, I skipped Mansilla de las Mulas and merged right before the bridge of Villarente.
My official Camino Vadiniense distance from Potes to Puente Villarente was 155.5 KM (96.6 Miles)
Remember there is limited lodging in Puente Villarente and places on the Camino Frances can book fast. If planning to sleep here after finishing the Camino Vadiniense, it’s best to book in advance.
➜ El Delfín Verde (Private Rooms)
Leon
I was feeling motivated for those famous León tapas, so I continued all the way to the city. This was an extremely long day and almost 8 miles from Puente Villarente. Remember, during the afternoon heat there is little shade coverage and the walk into León isn’t the most beautiful.
However, I wanted to relax and enjoy an extra day in one of my favorite cities on the Camino Frances. León is filled with delicious tapas bars, museums, and one of the most beautiful cathedrals on the Camino de Santiago.
There are plenty of places to sleep in León, here are a few of my favorite budget-friendly places for pilgrims.
➜ Albergue de Peregrinos “Las Carbajalas”
➜ Quartier Leon Hostel Jabalquinto
➜ Browse all the Best Places to Stay in León Spain
My Camino Vadiniense distance from Potes to León was 168.2 KM (104.5 Miles)
Those continuing on the Camino Frances will be around 195 miles (312 Km) to Santiago de Compostela (312 Km). However, some may wish to divert off the Camino Frances and head back to the mountains on the Camino San Salvador.
This route will take pilgrims to Oviedo, from where they can continue to Santiago de Compostela via the Camino Primitivo.
A Note About the Camino Vadiniense Certificate
I arrived in León looking for a completion certificate for the Camino Vadiniense. I walked this route in the fall of 2024, but for now, there is no completion certificate.
In fact, many of the albergues here in Leon had never heard of the route or seen the credencial (Lebaniego) I was carrying.
I stopped at two places to inquire about the certificate: First at the Las Carbajalas Pilgrim Albergue in León and the helpful Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago de León. Both incredibly helpful places did not have a certificate for me. They both agreed that for now this route is “too quiet” to offer an official certificate.
If you have walked this route and received a certificate for the Camino Vadiniense I would love to hear your experience!
My Budget for the Camino Vadiniense
So, how much did the Camino Vadiniense cost to walk? This Camino route took me 6 days. I stayed in a mixture of Municipal Albergues and private rooms that were available. I had some issues finding open rooms during September, so sometimes, I had to book a private room because that was all that was available.
This made the route a little more expensive than most Camino routes. There are fewer services on this route, so purchasing meals from albergues and carrying your food is essential.
My expenses include the first day walking from Potes to my first night in León. This budget expense is for 6 days.
I walked the Camino Vadiniense in September 2024.
| Expenses | Euro (€) |
| Accommodation (Albergues) | €160 |
| Meals | €51 |
| Groceries | €27.50 |
| Snacks & Beverages | €32.50 |
| Laundry | €8 |
| Donativo | €1 |
| Miscellaneous Expenses | €5.50 |
| Total Camino Vadiniense | € 285.50 / 6 Days |
| Total with Camino Lebaniego | €432 / 9 Days |
The Camino Vadiniense cost me around €285.50. Over 6 walking days and seven expense days, this averages to around €47.50 per day. That’s a higher daily average than almost every single Camino route I’ve walked.
It’s worth noting that the route between Potes and Mansillas de las Mulas sees very few pilgrims, and reservations are a must in some stages. Services are even more limited on the Camino Vadiniense than on the Camino Lebaniego. It can also be more expensive with less albergue options and more meal planning.
Conclusion | Final Thoughts on the Camino Vadiniense Route
In conclusion, this is my ultimate planning and walking guide to the Camino Vadiniense.
Most pilgrims take this route after completing the Camino Lebaniego.
This spectacular Camino route begins from Potes, circles around the foothills of the incredible Picos de Europa National Park, and rejoins pilgrims to the Camino Frances. The Camino Vadiniense is a rewarding way that sees very few pilgrims.
This is a little trekked path follows the footpaths of the Vadiniense tribes who used the mountains as a final stronghold of the Roman Empire. As you leave the mountains, be follow old Roman Roads and stunning monasteries.
This complete guide to the Camino Vadiniense includes my best tips, tools, alongside my route and budget. I’ve included my daily stages, places to stay, and my daily map stages.
No matter how you walk the Camino Vadiniense I wish for you a Buen Camino!
Did you walk the Camino Vadiniense? Are there any updates I should know about for this planning guide? Did you love the way as much as I did? Let me know in the comments below!
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